Wasootch Slabs - Cragging

Great day out with some early season cragging, first day on rock for me this season.  Meet up with Pat for an enjoyable day at Wasootch Slabs.  I led up all routes, rapped off, and then Pat led and also rapped.  Each did 5 leads, had hoped to do more, but the crag got really busy mid day and route selection was limited. Started on B slab with a couple of short bolted 5.6 routes.  Then off to F slab for a 5.7 bolted route, then a 5.4/5.6, trad/bolted route. Had really hoped to get on Orange Arete (5.8 bolted route), but it was busy or it’s close neighbour were always busy.  Finished on a longer and nice bolted 5.6 route on B slab wall.  Great weather, great to meet and climb with Pat.

King Creek Ridge

May 6, still dismayed from the Columbia Icefield trip, and wanting to take advantage of the high pressure system that was providing perfect weather, completely clear skies, warm temperatures and no wind; I headed out for a short day that still allowed some quality family time in the evening.  As part of my Opal 35 Project, and to get great views and some exercise, King Creek Ridge filled the bill.  Bottom third of the trail as dry, middle third was ice/mud and top third of the trail to the ridge was boot deep snow.

Once on the ridge the snow got very deep, up to waist deep and the odd section that was about armpit deep! Short sections along the western edge of the ridge provided reprieve from the deep snow.  Getting higher on the ridge where was an abundance of Rocky Mountain Sheep, probably saw about 25 sheep.  Even with the deep snow, I was able to keep a strong pace, probably since was living around 10,000 feet the last 3 days? 

The first highpoint was snowy and I was wondering about a cornice, but once I stood on the cairn, it was clear it was very safe, off to the next highpoint, where the signature Canada flag pole littered the top, no flag material was left. Leaving this highpoint got a bit exciting since I hugged the eastern edge of the ridge to avoid snow, it was a bit airy.  Nearing the final, highest, northern summit, two mountain goats ran off the summit.  Always cool to see the more reclusive mountain goat in K-country. Fantastic views to the Opal Range.  With the snow plowed out, I made quick time back to the dry trail.  Fun hike in perfect weather.

The Twins’ Trip – “West Twin” East Face, Alpine II

High hopes and expectations for this planned 4 day trip to the Columbia Icefields ended in a hugely disappointing trip for me. I always like to stay positive, but this trip really bummed me out and left me feeling quite frustrated. I had strong and well experienced rope team members (Anton and Ian), but a combination of warm temperatures and hot sun slow our pace thus our camp was far from The Twins.  Original plan was for 4 days to summit all 4 twins (North, South, Twins Tower and West Twin) and the 2 Stutfield Peaks (North and South) and tick off six 11,000’ers, but in the end I only got up one summit, West Twin (11,024 feet, 3360m) and we left the Icefield on the third day, May 5.

Sunset on The Twins from camp

At the of end day one Anton, Ian and I sent up camp beside Vern, Jason and TJ.  These boys were only planning on West and South Twin since they summitted North and Twins Tower last year.  Early start on day two, long ski towards The Twins, over the shoulder of North Twin, down to Twins Col, then skied to East Face of West Twin.  JW blasted up the deep snow of the East Face and set an awesome track for us to follow.  Easily tagged the summit of West Twin, then quick descent back to the skis.

Nearing East Face of West Twin

Skied back towards the North Ridge of South Twin, skied to the bottom of a short, but steep glacier ice slope.  Took off the skis and changed to crampons.  Anton and Ian started up the slope, with the plan to protect this section with a running belay protected by ice screws.  Vern, Jason and TJ were slightly behind us, approaching on skis. About half way up the ice slope, Anton picked a line on snow to avoid the icy section, while the snow patch was covering a crevasse and poor Anton went for a quick ride into the hole.  



Where did Anton go?

TJ and JW used their rope and went to the rescue up the icy pitch.  Vern and I chilled on the flat snow terrain, while Ian held the top end of Anton’s rope.  Great effort by JW and TJ to build an ice anchor and get  Anton out.  Anton didn’t get a scratch, but poor guy spent two hours in the hole. We packed up and did the long ski back to camp. 

Once at camp, ambition from Anton (understandable) and Ian was gone to do the long ski back to the northern Icefield, so no desire to attempt any of the Twins or the Stutfield Peaks.  Ian hadn’t been up Mt. Kitchener, Anton hadn’t been up Snowdome; these peaks were close to camp and an easy ski.  I have been up both these peaks, so I had no partners to climb any of my objectives. 

Day three TJ, Vern, Anton and Ian skied up Kitchener, JW and I stayed in camp. Later in the morning we broke camp, then TJ, JW, Vern and Anton skied up Snowdome, then us 6 headed home. 3 day trip to get up West Twin, yeah.  It took a lot of effort to get 4 days away from home and the office, this trip felt like a waste of time for me.