King Creek Seeps - 30-50m, WI3

John and I got out ice climbing again. Apparently we like climbing together in the cold, overnight temperatures were -34 in the mountains and when we left Calgary is was about -27. John hadn’t led any ice yet this season and wanted an easy lead, so we headed to King Creek. I was hoping to grow a pair and lead “Magic Touch” (5.8 WI3R), but with the -25 conditions and the dark shade of the canyon I chickened out on the mixed climbing.


We each led a few pitches, then would second the pitch, rappel off and repeat. Considering the cold weather, the ice was not horrible. We later thought we should have picked a sunny ice crag since we were just out of the warm sun all day. Bright blue bird day, just not in the canyon. Fun and casual cold weather climbing; had King Creek to ourselves, but is was Monday and about -20 all day.

Rogan's Gully - 300m, WI3

Cold day, with deteriorating weather called for an easy climb where we could keep on the move. John and I met up for the second time this season and decided on Rogan's Gully, a climb neither of us had been to before. Since the temperate hovered around -20 C most of the day, with lots of high wind, so the easy grade and longish length seemed like a good choice for the day.

First pitch from approach

To our surprise, there were about 4 parties climbing Cascade Falls on this cloudy cold Monday morning (February 3) and one party we could see on the first pitch of Rogan's. Easy and quick hike to the base of the route, and the party we saw were still finishing the first pitch, they were moving slow and we did catch up to them. 

Fun, easy pitch of easy grade WI3, I used bolts on the left rock wall for station; the previous party did this pitch in two short pitches, with the same leader, I guess he wanted the ice belay practice? After the first pitch, a longish snow climb to the "narrows" which was a cool tight canyon with easy mixed climbing over the steps. Just above the last pitch has two options, both look fun, we took the long and steeper (more climbed as well) right hand side.  Solid 60 metres of nice grade WI3, fun lead and felt like a total cruise, I wanted about 4 more pitches of that ice. 

Final pitch, fun!

We had to wait a bit for the other party, once up the pitch, they indicated to me that they we going to slog up to look for more ice, by time I brought up John, they returned indicating no more ice. We did the walk off route, it has one short rap, fresh tracks from the Cascade Falls crowd made this easy. Great option for such a cold blustery day, great fun!

Winter attempt of Opoca Peaks

It is good to have friends who will follow you on crazy adventures. As part of my Opal 35 Project , I was joined by my good climbing buddies Vern, Eric and Steven for an attempt on the Opoca Peaks on January 25. Un-official names I created for two minor highpoints, both with two summits. The taller mountain is about 2480 metres (GR368155) is located between Mt. Wintour and Gap Mtn. was named Opoca for the two creek that surround it, Opal Creek and Elpoca Creek. The lower eastern highpoint, 2440 metres, was identified as “East Opoca”.

West Face of main summit Opoca Peak

East Opoca is a hike or ski to the top, Opoca Peak requires some 5th class climbing, no beta, so no idea on the grade, length or location of the best route. The original plan for this winter ascent was to ski up the closed highway (about 6 km) to Elpoca Creek, up the creek (about 4 km) and ski up to the twin summits of East Opoca, then descend to the shared col and assess an attempt on the northern end of Opoca Peak.

Well the highway ski was simple and fast, the ski up Elpoca Creek required extensive and arduous trail breaking, mostly done by me. Once we gained a view of East Opoca, we were well above the creek bed, and a few vertical cliff bands. The summit of East Opoca would require descent through steep, and potentially serious avalanche terrain; where as the south ridge of Opoca Peak loomed close over head.

What we could see of Opoca Peak, steep step on right.

We decided to check out the south ridge route, although we could not clearly see our summit from our angle. Ditched the skis, then a few quick hundred metres of easy scree bashing to a narrow ridge of moderate/difficult scrambling took us on the aesthetic south summit ridge. About 300 metres along the crest, the ridge raised in a steep wall. No way to tell if the summit was on top, I suspect it was further along the ridge. The steep step was likely about 5.6/5.7 climbing for about 50 metres; I was keen to try it out, the rest of team, not so much. We decided to head home. Faster ski out because of the nice packed ski track, then a plod on the highway. No summit, but some good beta on the Opoca Peaks and fun with my friends.

Steep step on south ridge.