This relatively new route has become a Bow Valley moderate classic. The route was pioneered and equipped by two local climbing guides, Mark Klassen and Todd Anthony-Malone. Mostly a steep slab route on super firm and fun rock with cruxes well protected. This 9 pitch route requires a rappel descent, great half day outing.
The route Aftonroe became an instant classic as soon as the climbing community became aware of it. I heard a lot of great things about this route and I was keen to climb it. Having just climbed it on Monday June 23, I agree with the common sentiment; super fun casual route on great rock. We had a mixed of sun, rain and wind on our climb, but windy conditions help to dry off the rock.
M. Klassen and T. Anthony-Malone developed this route on the far right hand side (east end) of the sport climbing venue, Guide’s Rock. The rock is primarily steep and very texture limestone slab. Unlikely most slab rock formations, much of this route has fantastic hand holds with deep incut holds with super positive grip. The cruxes (Pitch 3 and 7) either have blank slab sections or slight overhanging bulges requiring delicate slab/friction moves; but don’t mistake this for meaning the route is a sketchy and frightening slab shake fest, the majority of the route has a great amount of incredible holds. The spacing of bolts can be a bit far apart, but all crux moves are well protected.
Some people recommend linking some of the shorter pitches, but we climbed all pitches as individual pitches, using all bolted anchor stations. The set up for bolts and positions for anchors make climbing the full 9 pitches a breeze. We only brought a total of 9 quick draws and kept the rack nice and light.
Rappelled off the belay stations for a total of 8 raps, the station from the top of pitch two reaches the ground in 30 metres, obviously you need at least a 60 metre rope to reach safe ground.
