Gray Waves - 5.8, 140m (6 pitches)

Gray Waves, this is a route I wanted to climb about 20 years ago (boy I am getting old ;-). Back in the day, this route had no fixed pro, no bolts, but the occasional loose rusty pin. Before the big retro bolt of the Kid Goat crag, I was up the classic route Keehaul Wall (5.6, 155m) several times and would often look over to the steep, slabby, blank wall of Gray Waves and wonder how run out was it?

I basically stopped my focus on rock climbing in 1999, after getting very comfortable on tough 5.8/5.9 alpine trad leads. 1999 was the same year Kid Goat (and several other older crags) had major retro bolt updates. The first ascent of Gray Waves was by John Martin and L. Howard in 1980.  In 1998, Joe Josephson and K. Snyder slightly rerouted and retro bolted the first pitch, in 1999, M. Piche and S. Holeczi added bolts to the rest of the route.

My impression in the mid 1990’s was that this route was fun, clean (no loose holds/clean ledges), but seriously run out with very little chance for good protection, and no fixed stations. My focus, at the time, was on big mountain alpine trad rock routes and I never climbed Gray Waves, but did think of it often…

Laurie and I have been doing a ton of indoor climbing and trying our best to get outdoors a bunch this year. My wish list for us included Gray Waves, and on June 24, we had a blast on this classic route.

Laurie led pitch 1 (20m, 5.8), his pic looking down to me.

I led pitch 2 (30m, 5.8+?).

Just below crux of route.

LK with Yam

OSWB belaying

Best 5.5 slab traverse in the Rockies IMHO

Barrier Bluffs - Cadillac Jack 5.9, Squeeze Play 10d

Had big alpine snow, rock ridge, first ascent route plans, but the forecasted clearing on Sunday night did not happen. We left the car about 1am, hiked until 3am, and only more and more snow fell, so hiked back to the car. Slept about 5 hours, got coffee and slowly made our way to Barrier Bluffs.

I led up Cadillac Jack, 24m, 5.9.  Tough 5.9, but likely tough since all really significant foot and hand holds were totally polished; feet especially required careful work and weighting, grade felt way harder than 5.9 for sure.  Once up to the anchor, did a couple of top roped laps on Cadillac Jack and Squeeze Play. Squeeze Play was great as a TR would be huge challenge as a lead.

Fun afternoon after a night of hiking in the snow with big packs.