Lyell 3 (Ernest Peak), Lyell 2 (Edward Peak) and Lyell 1 (Rudolph Peak), Alpine II.

The storm let up mid day Thursday, but the summits of the Lyells were wrapped in clouds. We made a plan to get up early and move before first light and head up the glacier and hopefully get all five summits. Early Friday morning, July 26, Lyells were still wrapped in clouds and raked by high winds, we did the long march up the Lyell Icefield to the base of the 5 Lyells.  

We arrived about 8am, waited in the blasting cold wind until about 9:30, decided to bail and return to camp. I was so disappointed, but the Lyells were so socked in. We kept looking back as we walked down the glacier. About 1 km down the glacier, Lyell 5 (Christian Peak) cleared, we turned and decided to attempt an ascent.  On the slog up, we saw two roped groups of 4 climbers descending the south ridge of Christian Peak, assuming heading back to the hut.

Scott chilling on the glacier,

Our view for 1.5 hours. Is it going to clear?

I think it is clearing... lets go!

As the wind slowly pushed the clouds out, we decided to start with a climb of Lyell 3 (Ernest Peak) and see how the weather worked out. Eventually we gained the 2/3 col and summitted 3 (Ernest) with clouds and limited views.

We dropped back to the col, up to the summit of 2 (Edward Peak) and then onto 1 (Rudolph Peak).  All easy glacier climbing on snow. After descending back to the main glacier, we decided it was too late in the day to continue onto 4 or 5 and returned back to our camp near Arctomys Peak.  Saturday July 27 we hiked out via Glacier River and Lake to the highway, long haul with mostly rain.  Great adventure for my Cali pal.

Summit view from Lyell 3 to north ridge of Lyell 4.

Summit selfie on Lyell 3.

Scott on the summit of Lyell 2, Lyell 1 in near distance.

View to Lyell 3 (r) and Lyell 4 (l) from Lyell 2 summit.

View to Lyell 5 (l) and 4 (r).

From summit ridge of Lyell 1, view back to Lyell 2 and 3. 

Lyell Icefield approach, Arctomys Peak

Wow, what an epic trip, huge ups and downs in weather and expectations, a real adventure. My Californian buddy Scott, expert in Sierra Nevada alpine climbing, was keen for a Canadian Rockies adventure. I planned a 6 to 7 day trip to the Lyell Icefield, hoping to traverse the five Lyells and, if conditions/weather permitted, extend the trip northwestward to Farbus or Oppy (this extension of the trip was inspired by Vern Dewitt’s and Steven Song’s 2015 Farbus ascent). We approached via Glacier Lake/River to the eastern edge of the massive Lyell Icefield. The last, and only, time I was at Glacier Lake was when I climbed Mt. Forbes, in 1994, 25 years ago!! 

View to Mt. Forbes and Lyell meadows.

The trail to the east end of Glacier Lake is a highway, and easy travel, except when you are carrying food for 7 days and a pile of rock gear. Big packs were slowing us down, but spirits were high, high like the hot temperatures. Soon after leaving the western end of lake, hiking along the beautiful Glacier River, the trail disappears. We made the mistake of following some flagging into the thick trees along the edge of the flat river valley.  Wasted a pile of energy and time trying to stay on this overgrown trail. On the hike out we stayed closer to the river, on the flats, and the travel was much better. When we got near the lake at the toe of lhe lower South East Lyell Glacier we got off track. We misread the description in the Corbett guidebook, the moraine is the big huge, ancient moraine, not the minor little ridge of scree we took into the trees. We found the proper old trail on the way down, but it is very overgrown and parts of the moraine are collapsing making it interesting. This trail is well packed in, but little shrubs and trees have thick branches blocking the trail. The proper trail has many sections in the steeper trees where blow down has wiped out the trail.  On the way up, we just straight line bush bashed up, pure hell. 

South East Lyell Glacier. Nearing the lake at the toe of the lower glacier.
The trail is on the top of the huge moraine, Above the hoodoos, just right of the centre
of the photo. Is overgrown and sections collapsing, several upper steep tree sections are gone. 

Scott trying to cool over in the heat of the day.

Was very happy when we finally arrived at Lyell Meadows. We camped high in the upper meadows, just below Arctomys Peak. Morning of July 23 we broke camp, hauled our heavy packs most of the way to the summit of Arctomys Peak.  Incredible view from the summit of Acrtomys, and a huge summit cairn. We hiked over to the edge of the Icefield, great views to Mt. Forbes. With the heat we decided to wait until early Wednesday morning to get on the Lyell Icefield, but Tuesday night the weather crapped out. During the heat of the afternoon on Tuesday we tried to stay cool, but the lack of shade made this tough. We found an old wind wall made of rock along the ridge above the glacier. We fortified and added more height to the wall.  Since we had the time, I made a deluxe mini wind wall for the stove. The extra wind protection came in helpful since all day Wednesday we were absolutely hammered by wind, I could say gusts over 100km and constants winds around 60 to 80km, all with pouring, pouring rain, for over 24 hours. 

View to the shapely summit of Arctomys Peak.

OSWB on the summit of Arctomys Peak.

Scott by summit cairn. 

Summit view down Arctomys Creek and the
Valley of Lakes. 

Lyell summits and glacier.

Huge waterfall off glacier.

Lyell Icefield and the five summits of the Lyell group.
Most left Christian Peak (5), Walter Peak (4), Ernest Peak (3), Edward Peak (2) and most right, Rudolph Peak (1).