December 6 took my good friend Laurie out for his very first ice climbing. Laurie has only been alpine and multi pitch sport climbing for a relatively short time; about 5 years. In fact, our first alpine climb together was in July 2014 when we did the first known ascent of "Rocky Peak" (GR334290) via West Face/Ridge with alpine climbing in the 5.4 range. Laurie is a solid 5.10 bolt protected climber and usually about 5.8 trad lead climber, depending on the ease of getting trad pro. He is a strong and brave rock leader, so I knew he would have no problem with ice climbing.
 |
| Laurie at the end of the day, WD40 in the background. |
Back in 2008, Jason Wilcox and I set three new ice routes in Upper Evan-Thomas Creek. The ice route "B2" I climbed with Tony Barton in March of 1995; at the time we assumed we had climbed "Good H'evans Thomas". I had top roped "WD40" twice in January of 2006, didn't have the head space to lead it that year, so Jason and I led the route in January of 2008, the first ascent documented year. Some details on Upper Evan-Thomas Creek in these links.
Since 2008, Upper Evan-Thomas Creek has become quite popular, busy and well trodden. So well trodden, that the once small goat path on the upper bank of the creek that avoids the tight canyon just upstream of Combo Falls has been massive widened and now includes wooden handrails on the trees, and the relatively easy, but exposed, rock traverse in the narrow canyon has a steel cable handrail added (I think added in 2017 or 2018). I had thought about chopping this handrail, but it does increase safety, I guess you are a wimpy rock scrambler, you use the hand rail, if not, then don't use. I didn't use the handrail on my trip with Laurie.
Being a Friday, I assumed we would have upper ETC to ourselves, nope, including us, a total of 11 people between B2 and Green Monster before noon. Oh well, the way of the world I guess. There was a guided group ahead of us that we caught up to, at first the guide considered B2, so I thought Slurpee might be in shape, nope, wasn't formed well. I thought about Green Monster, but I haven't lead much in the last couple of season, so back to B2. The guided group was sharing a top rope with another group of 4 on WD40.
 |
| Busy day, view to WD40. |
 |
| Slurpee was no formed. Didn't bother. |
 |
| View back to Green Monster. Seriously considered a lead up it, but I glad I didn't. |
 |
| LK enjoying the brisk temps. |
Simple lead to the top of B2, I set up a top rope and Laurie did a pile of laps on the top rope. I gave Laurie a history of ice climbing techniques and the option of climbing with or without leashes since I have two pairs of tools (Quarks from 1999 with leashes and Nomics from 2012). Spent a couple hours of pleasant ice climbing; Laurie loved it. After dark, i did the last lap and clean the anchor and rapped off. Fun hike out, and cold beer in the parking lot. Great day out.
 |
| LK's first ice climb. |
 |
| More TR'ing |
 |
| LK having a lot of fun. |
 |
| More climbing |
 |
Chilling in the parking lot with some cold ones.
A great day out. |
