Beowulf - WI4, 667 m (6 pitches) + GBU - WI5, 35m

Great day out in the Ghost with Jason and Pierre. We headed to Beowulf for our first climb of the day. Last time I climbed with Pierre was with Jason and Janice, I think about 9 years ago? Typical drive in, 3 or 4 river crossing in Jason's cool jacked up Landcruiser. No problem for his Ghostmobile. 

First pitch of Beowulf, second upper tier was super wet.
Even had a high volume of water flowing over the left hand side of the second tier.

JW's cool Ghostmobile.  

Pierre was keen to solo the full route, 
he is heading up pitch 1 just before JW and I.
We were happy to rope up for pitch 1 and the final pitches. 

Pierre was keen to solo the full route, and use my ropes to rap ;-). JW and I were keen to rope up for the first pitch, and the last pitch. The easy WI2 steps between pitch 1 and the bottom of the top pitches, we were all happy to solo. The upper two pitches were solid WI4 and much dryer ice since it is on a sidewall, not in the main canyon. About 80 metres of climbing, with the top exit pitch presenting 4+ lines, which of course JW lead up, easy breezy for him. 

Easy fun ice steps mid climb.

Just below JW's feet is a very deep water pool, 
had to tread carefully. 

Second last pitch, where the final two pitches leave the canyon.

Super fun climb up. Was remembering the last time I was here, on top of Beowulf; 15 years ago. December 2007 Jason and I climbed Beowulf, up Devil's Punchbowl and continued up to the summit to Devil's Head via the West Ridge and gully. 

Glimpse view to Devil's Head summit from near the top of the route. 

Young guns. 

Quick descent and back to JW's Landcruiser. JW was keen to climb more, so we headed to GBU for a quick lap. JW easier climbed up the WI5 right hand side, then Pierre and I did a top rope lap. My TR was by headlamp. JW did a TR to clean the anchor, then a few beers before the drive home. Great day out. 

JW heading up GBU just before dark.

GR279343 “Spoon Needle (Aiguille de la Cuiller)” - South Ridge

Many of us mountain enthusiasts have looked at the cool sharp ridge of this interesting feature heading north on Highway 40 from the Kananaskis Valley. The first ascent known to me was by the venerable Sonny Bou. His trip report from 2004 is available here. Over the years, as much of Kananaskis, this hike/scramble was become very popular with frequent ascents in all seasons. Had a great day out on November 19 with Curt and Taylor heading out for a snow shoe approach and hike up Spoon Needle. 

Photo from https://peakery.com/spoon-needle-alberta/ 
View to Spoon Needle from Highway 40.

Approximate route.

Near Fortress Ski Resort area, view down the road we walked up.

Cool view to the Fortress.

Easy bushwach from road to tree line.

Great views to the south.

Views

Getting near tree line. 

Curt and Taylor.

OSWB, photo by Curt. 

South Ridge looks pretty easy from here.

Hiking up to the final rock section.

Time to leave the snow shoes.

Great views,

Taylor running for the top.

Curt enjoying the views.

Signing the register.

Like all of us, the summit register is showing its age. Our summit visit was super windy and it was very difficult to keep the pages from blowing away. We signed the register and carefully packed it back in the tune. Was too windy to read through it. A few photos from Sonny's trip and Vern/Steven's trip; you can really see the staples rusting and the paper quality deteriorating. 

From Sonny's Sept. 2004 trip.

From Steven's Feb. 2014 trip.

From Vern's Feb. 2014 trip.

Our summit register entry.

Heading home.
Photo by Curt.