GR 368155 ('Opoca Peak') - South Ridge Attempt 5.8+ R

Part of my Opal 35 Project, and also since it is a cool little peak, Laurie and I set off to attempt the South Ridge of GR 368155 ’Opoca Peak’ in the Opal Range on August 26 after work. This little peak is between Mt. Wintour to the north and Gap Mtn. to the south and has a large vertical summit block. I applied the name of Opoca Peak since it is along the divide between Opal and Elpoca Creeks.  I have been most of the way up the South Ridge of Opoca Peak with Vern, Eric and Steven back in January 2014. We turned around because of the lateness of the day, but we never got a good look at the start of the vertical ridge section.

Looking up South Ridge

I was hopeful that the ridge was in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, well it turned out to be tougher. The broad ridge ends at an overhanging wall, not too tall, maybe 7 or 8 metres, but overhanging, blank for rock protection and loose. Around the prow of the ridge on the east aspect, I found a loose and chossy chimney that was about 5.6 or 5.7, but the left side of the chimney was incredibly loose and likely would have fallen off if I used it as a hold. This section also had no protection. I climbed up about 5 metres and bailed due to the looseness of the rock. Back to the overhang.

5.7 death choss chimney

The overhang did have a nice foot ledge traverse from the lowest section towards the steepest and tallest section of the overhang. This traverse was a pumpy 5.8, with a huge, powerful move required to transition from the overhang to the lower angled rock on the lower angled section of the ridge (5.8+ R).  This traverse and the big move up were not protectable with your feet now about 5 metres above the nasty crash zone. The move up into easy terrain looked incredibly loose. I tried for well over an hour to get a piton into the rock, but the rock was too either too tight or too loose.  Not wanting to risk the big move without protection, we bailed. We searched for alternative routes for about an hour, no luck, so we turn our tails and headed home.  I will be back for the North Ridge/East Face route one day soon.

5.8+ R lower section