More Cowbell - 5.7, 325m (10 pitches)

Looking up pitch 1.

Laurie leading pitch 1.

Had a blast, wind blast, on More Cowbell with an afternoon/evening climb (Aug. 6), with my good buddy Laurie. Originally we had planned to climb this in April, but my all alpine plans have been messed up this season. Rain threatened at the start, but gale force winds blew it away. Great rock on this route. The first four pitches have super textured and water runnelled rock, very cool. All the pitches had good rock quality and lots of fun for the grade. The high winds made rapping the route extra fun.

High quality beta available here . 

Is that raining coming this way?

Between pitch 4 and 5 you hike about 30 metres up easy terrain to the base of pitch 5.
Left of the route is a cool big slab and a steep corner, pictured here.
The top of the steep corner provides scary exposure for the crux moves on the second last pitch, and for setting the second rappel off the top of the route. 

Laurie heading up pitch 5

Laurie at belay above pitch 5.

Laurie lead the crux pitch, pitch 9. 
The crux moves are slab moves with little hands and only fiction feet.
The pinch point of the long roof is the exit off the slab.
Solid 5.7 or more! 

OSWB at the top of the route, top of pitch 10.
Very cold wind blowing.

Laurie ringing the cow bell.

Looking down from the anchor on top of pitch 9, to the crux.
The straight down fall line of the rope puts the rope into the steep corner seen from
below pitch 5. This rappel is difficult to control, especially in high winds.
Care is needed.