"Cat's Ears" (GR382180) - North Summit - West Face, 5.6

Success on North Cat’s Ear! The “Cat’s Ears” are a striking double summit between Mount Jerram and “Mount Schlee” (GR 385168) at the head of Opal Creek. I have always assumed the unofficial name of Cat’s Ears was derived from the view of the south summit from the Piper Creek drainage, two very pointy highpoints. Back in July of 2024, Scott Berry and I summitted the higher southern summit (ear) and we attempted the northern ear in July this summer, but were chased off by a thunderstorm as we were about the get the rope out. On Saturday September 13 Scott Berry and I reached the exposed summit of North Summit "Cat's Ears" (GR382180) via the West Face. We are assuming we followed the same line as the first ascent team (Frank Campbell and Don Forest, June 20, 1982). Our ascent is the second recorded ascent of this obscure summit. Our third trip in the last 14 months up Opal Creek to the high col between the two ears seemed quite familiar. From the scree of Opal Creek, moderate to difficult scrambling on slabs covered with loose dirt and rock leads to this high col.  Two steep short slabs steps (about 5.6) need to be ascended to reach the col. Just below the col, a gully/chimney between the main summit block and a flake gives access to steep scree below the northern summit. About 120 metres of climbing in the gully (loose scree and a few steep 5.6 steps) reaches a scree bowl below the summit. The summit tower is the most northern high point. A short 5.5 slab climb low on the tower leads to the narrow summit ridge. No cairn or summit register were found. I had brought a new summit register tube and book to leave behind. After some summit smiles and high fives, Scott filled out the new register and I built a cairn. Beautiful sunset colours as we started the complicated descent. We did 5 rappels, using pitons or slung boulders as anchors, and arrived at the difficult slab downclimb in full darkness, yeah! Careful downclimbing and long hike out in the dark was good character building. Amazing day in the mountains with an amazing friend. After this summit, I have 32 of the 35 Opal Range summits.

"Cat's Ears" (GR382180) - North Summit - West Face Attempt, 5.6

July 27 was Scott’s last full day in Alberta and we figured with the marginal weather forecast we would make a Hail Mary attempt to climb “Cat’s Ears North” (GR 382180). We weren’t expecting success when we hiked up Opal Creek in fog and a light drizzle. We pressed on to the Col between South and North Cat’s Ears, but soon thunder and rain sent us retreating to the valley. We decided to traverse “Elpoca Creek Hill”, or as I like to call it, East Opoca (GR 376159), on the way out. 

We were treated to some amazing views traversing the hill and thoroughly enjoying the dramatic lighting. Hard to have a bad day in the Opal Range. 

“Mount Sarcee” (GR373253)(’Ripsaw') – South Ridge Attempt. 5.7+

This stunning peak is located immediately to the east of Mt. Evan-Thomas. This tall mountain (3000m?) is far from roads and unknown to many. July 23 Scott Berry and I attempted to climb the South Ridge. We didn’t reach the spectacularly steep summit.

More details to come...

Pika Peak - South West Slopes/West Ridge Scramble

Hidden Lake views to Pika Peak.

Sunday July 13 had an amazingly fun day on Pika Peak with John. We biked to near Temple Lodge (Ski Louise lodge) and locked up our bikes. Hiked to Halfway Hut and then up the  standard scramble route on Pika Peak. South West slopes side sloping leads to the Pika/Richardson Col. The West Ridge to the exciting final summit ridge is easy/moderate scrambling. Summit ridge is an exposed horizontal cat walk to the protruding bump of the summit. Exposed, but all moderate/easy scrambling IMHO. Lucky the surrounding rain clouds stayed away and we had calm conditions on the summit. Quick return to Hidden Lake and headed back to the bikes. We had rain for our final 30 minutes of walking and our 10 minute bike ride out was very wet. We were under 9 hours car to car. Super awesome day out. 

More Cowbell - 5.7, 315m (10 pitches)

View up crux section.

Hike to route. Beautiful evening.
Photo by Curt. 

Had an excellent evening of rock climbing on July 6 on the super fun route, More Cowbell. Both Curt and I have done this route before and thought it would make a fine evening ascent. I first climbed it on August 6, 2020 with Laurie. Blog post here.

Approach in the forest.

Fairly cruisey lower 8 pitches (5.4 - 5.6) with the money pitch on pitch 9 providing the crux (solid 5.7, slab to clearing a steep roof). Overall the route is 315m with 10 pitches, all bolted, double bolt stations, really well setup. Tons of fun, great to get out with Curt again.

Route location.

Route topo.

Valley views.

View up pitch 1.

Curt on pitch 1.

View up pitch 2.

OSWB on pitch 2.
Photo by Curt.

Curt on pitch 3.

Opal views.

Curt stacking rope on the bottom of pitch 9.

View up pitch 9, the crux pitch.

View of crux of pitch 9,
Super fun.

View back to station.

OSWB at top of pitch 9.
Photo by Curt.

View up short pitch 10.

Top anchor with Cowbell.

Scrambled to top of the little summit.

Curt rapping pitch 9 at crux section.
Only 8 more rappels to go..