Wicked Wanda WI4, 60 metres, 1 pitch

 

Jason on the approach.

January 16, had an awesome day of ice climbing in the Ghost with my old friend Jason. We climbed Wicked Wanda since it was well shaded and we assumed it was protected from some of the recent warm weather. We were right. Excellent ice conditions. JW lead the full climb as one pitch to the top bolts. Fun 4- up to the funky wind sculptured section, then super interesting featured climbing through this top section. 

View to the route.

JW heading up.

My view up on second.

My view down. About half way up.

JW excavated some ice and made us a nice little tunnel to get behind a small feature. The top section was amazing climbing. Super fun pitch.

Heading up into the wind features.

JW's tunnel.

JW at the top bolted anchor. 

JW's view down to me on second.
(Photo by Jason)

OSWB nearing belay station.
(Photo by Jason)

Great to get on some ice. Didn’t see any other climbers, quiet, sunny and calm day in the Ghost.

View north from top of the route.
Blue sky and calm. 

JW's awesome Ghostmobile.
Such a cool ride.

The proud owner.

Bow Summit - Backcountry turns

Curt skinning up the nice up track. 

Old guy making tracks.
(Photo by Curt)

Sunday January 11 got out for some yo yo skiing with the Curt at Bow Summit. Very busy at the parking area for Peyto Lake with all kinds of people getting out to enjoy the beautiful day.

 

Curt getting ready with our first downhill transition. 

We skinned up a well packed up track and first did couple of laps on a few nice short sheltered slopes at tree line. Great snow with nice consistency in the snow pack. Short runs but really nice quality. Since we were new to this spot we toured around to check things out. 

One of the nice sheltered slopes we skied.
Super nice snow, but not powder.

Weather started out calm winds with warm temperatures, but around 2pm snow squalls appeared along with increasing winds.  We skied over to overlook Peyto Lake then explored more south and did a long run on a slope that was well used with many tracks. 

Peyto Lake

Really nice long run, but definitely not freshies. After skiing this slope we made our way back to the car. Great day of earning our turns. 

Base of the big run. 

"Piper Pass Peak" (GR390177) - Solo Ski Tour

 

View to Piper Pass from Little Elbow trail.
(South Cat's Ears sunlit pointy peak on left, 
South Tombstone Mtn. on the right) 

Had a fun solo ski day Sunday November 30. Last day the Highwood Pass section of highway 40 was opened, so I thought I should head there. Skied to Piper Pass and then slogged up the little bump of “Piper Pass Peak” (GR390177). 

South Tombstone

Elpoca Mountain behind,
Elpoca Tower on the right.

Morning colours.

View to the south-east aspect of Cat's Ears.
I assume this is where the name was derived. 

November 30 was my 3rd time on this little bump. First time I hiked to Piper Pass was in August 2003, hiked up it then. Second time I have skied up to Piper Pass. Back in 2015 I spent the winter solstice camping near Piper Pass and walked up the peak then as well. My trip in late December 2015 was an attempt to ski/hike up "Little Tombstone" (Janelea Mountain)(GR396213). The plan was to camp south of the pass, then ski north over the pass, down the drainage and hike up Little Tombstone. Skied up highway 40 from the winter closure at King Creek, past Elbow Lake and dug in a warm snow cave on the last flats below Piper Pass. Day two I hiked up the wind blown south side of Piper Pass, but I chickened out skiing down the north side of Piper Pass. It wasn't very safe for a solo skier. Lots of hard wind slab with little support. I did drop about 100m, but chickened out and skinned up, and then hiked up Piper Pass Peak again. Did not write up the trip back in 2015.  

Map of Piper Creek area.
In December 2015 camped south of Piper Pass.

Fast forward 10 years, November 2025 had really good snow coverage in Piper Creek, skied up and down the regular Piper Creek summer trail, a but scary on ski out with the narrow trees! Great Opal Range views from the pass.

"Cat's Ears" (GR382180) - North Summit - West Face, 5.6

"Cat's Ears" (GR382180) - North Summit in centre of photo.
Mt. Jerram on left, Cat's Ear South on right. 
(Photo from July 27, 2025)

Success on North Cat’s Ear! The “Cat’s Ears” are a striking double summit between Mount Jerram and “Mount Schlee” (GR 385168) at the head of Opal Creek. I have always assumed the unofficial name of Cat’s Ears was derived from the view of the south summit from the Piper Creek drainage, two very pointy highpoints. Back in July of 2024, Scott Berry and I summitted the higher southern summit (ear) and we attempted the northern ear in July this summer, but were chased off by a thunderstorm as we were about to the get the rope out. On Saturday September 13 Scott Berry and I reached the exposed summit of North Summit "Cat's Ears" (GR382180) via the West Face. We are assuming we followed the same line as the first ascent team (Frank Campbell and Don Forest, June 20, 1982). Our ascent is the second recorded ascent of this obscure summit. 

Clear day dawning on Mt. Jerram (left) and 
the Cat's Ears (right).

Heading into the upper reaches of Opal Creek.

Damp morning in Opal Creek, view to our objective.

Our third trip in the last 14 months up Opal Creek to the high col between the two ears seemed quite familiar. From the scree of Opal Creek, moderate to difficult scrambling on slabs covered with loose dirt and rock leads to this high col.  Two steep short slabs steps (about 5.6) need to be ascended to reach the col. Just below the col, a gully/chimney between the main summit block and a flake gives access to steep scree below the northern summit. About 120 metres of climbing in the gully (loose scree and a few steep 5.6 steps) reaches a scree bowl below the summit. The summit tower is the most northern high point. A short 5.5 slab climb low on the tower leads to the narrow summit ridge. No cairn or summit register were found. I had brought a new summit register tube and book to leave behind. After some summit smiles and high fives, Scott filled out the new register and I built a cairn. Beautiful sunset colours as we started the complicated descent. We did 5 rappels, using pitons or slung boulders as anchors, and arrived at the difficult slab downclimb in full darkness, yeah! Careful downclimbing and long hike out in the dark was good character building. Amazing day in the mountains with an amazing friend. After this summit, I have 32 of the 35 Opal Range summits.

Off the soft grass onto the scree slog upwards.

Nearing the end of the scree slog.
North Cat's Ear above.

Long section from top of scree to high col between the two summit towers.
Lots of steep slabs with loose rock in between.
Moderate to difficult scrambling with exposure to cliffs below.

When I first developed the goal of my Opal 35 project back in 2011, there was very limited information for many of the peaks in the range. The old Green Book, "The Rocky Mountains of Canada - South" (Glen Boles, Robert Kruszyna and William Putnam) does not have any information on the Cat’s Ears, but first ascent accounts were published in the Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ). 

Volume 67 of The Canadian Alpine Journal, published in 1984
used the name Cat’s Ear and the two separate titles of South Cat’s Ear and North Cat’s Ear. 

The old “Green Book”.

David Jones' guidebook (2020) "Rockies South. The Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada: Volume 1" was years away from being published, and I provided much of the information for the Opal Range section to David. The CAJ write up's are the same descriptions as in the David Jones guidebook. The two short slab 5.6 sections we climbed were below the col, and the access to the long 120 metre gully/chimney was direct off the scree just below the col. 

Route description from David Jones guidebook (2020)
"Rockies South. The Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada: Volume 1" 

Base of the second steep step below col.
We pitched it with little protection, goes at about 5.6 R.

Exploring col area, chimney/gully system base 
is about 35 metres below col.

Peek a boo through col, Mount Tombstone across the valley.

View up gully. 
Tight and mostly loose with a few 5.6 steep steps. 

View down gully to Scott at belay station near scree col. 

Scott on a steep step in the gully while
leading up pitch 2 of gully. 

Scott's video from our uppermost belay station (on top of the gully/chimney). I am heading up the final summit block. 

View part way up final summit tower slabs.

Final steps to top of tower.
View north towards Mt. Jerram.

View south from summit ridge.
South Cat's Ear is definitely higher. 

Summit smiles.

Scott's fine art work on the new summit register.

Our entry into the summit register.
Second ascent baby! 

View south to Cat's Ear South Summit. 
Mt. Tombstone to the left with the double shadow of the Cat's Ears.

Summit smiles.
Let's get off this thing.

View back to new summit cairn on top of Cat's Ears North.

View to Scott belaying as I down climb from summit block.
South Cat's Ear behind and Mt. Rae in distance.