Alpine Soft: September 2022

Angry bull elk.

Did the route Yonge Street (5.8, 390m, 14 pitches) on Mt. Rundle on Monday September 26 with a buddy of mine, Brad W. Brad is a veteran rock climber and has set routes with many of the local masters. Brad and I had limited time and he suggested we do the route up and down in 2 hours. I wasn’t sure if that was realistic, but Brad suggested linking pitches and maybe some simul climbing. I was keen to try it out. Crux of the day was getting out of the car. We parked in the described spot, hopped out and were immediately confronted with an angry bull elk. He eventually left, but we were worried he would attack our vehicle.

Area beta from Gripped.com

Topo map from Gripped.com

It was only 15 minutes to the base of the route. In the end, Brad linked pitches 1-4 (did Tent Peg variation; 3 pitches to base of P5). I linked pitches 5-7 then 8 & 9. Brad did pitch 10-11 and most of 12 on belay, then the rope (60m) was fully out. We then simul climbed. Brad topped and brought me up. About 1 hour 20 minutes up. Rapped the route, but pitches 5-7 you can walk down. Just over 2 hours up and down the route. This route has some really nice sections, but lots of easy terrain in between these good sections. I would guess this route is maybe 50% good rock, 25% below 5th class rock and 25% scree and dirt? Not an all star route, but we had an awesome day out.

Brad about half way up pitch 2.

"pitches 5 - 7" if you pick the easiest line,
you can walk up all 3 pitches.

Great views.

View down pitch 11.

First rap.

Mt. Peechee

Tunnel Mtn.

Mt. Inglismaldie (l), Mt. Girouard (c) & Mt. Peechee (r).

From Wasootch Creek parking area.
Wasootch Tower is obvious,
the wall across the drainage is where The 4th Wave is located.

From our June 2022 ascent of Wasootch Tower, view over to The 4th Wave wall.
The deluxe approach trail is visible.

Ian's Instagram post.

Back in June of this year, 2022, Laurie and I had a great late spring ascent of Wasootch Tower. On the hike in, and while climbing the tower, we wondered if the wall across the drainage would have potential for some new routes, well it guess it does. Ian Greant posted on Instagram in September that Patrick and Chelsea Lindsay set this new route. Once I saw Ian's post, we had to check it out.

In the approach drainage below Wasootch Tower.
Laurie is stoked.

The route builders did an incredible job building the approach trail below the wall.
Thank you for the great work.

Deluxe!

Laurie and I headed out to try this route on Friday September 16. Our last trip out was Wasootch Tower, so this approach seemed very familiar. Once up below the wall with The 4th Wave, I was immediately impressed with the approach trail. A lot of effort and hard work into the construction of this trail. We found the base of the route and geared up. I was keen to go and climbed the first pitch. Ian's post indicated grade, length of route, number of pitches and gear required. I tried to remember the gear for each pitch and any interesting sections for this post. Spoiler alert, the crux's are probably more than 5.8.

Looking up pitch 1.
The route goes right at the end of the small roof.

Another view to the roof.

A few moves up pitch 1, still below the roof, view to belay.

Above the small roof, climbing grade 5.7.

At top of pitch 1 looking down to Laurie on second.

Pitch 1 was about 28m in length with 12 bolts; 5.7. The lower section was easy 5.5 to near the lower roof, then 5.7 for a good distance. Below the first anchor, the terrain gets easier again with some loose dirt pebbles on ledges. I used the first station that I encountered, this station included rap rings.

Laurie about half way up pitch 2.
Mostly solid 5.8.

Laurie at belay station at top of pitch 2.

Looking up to Laurie at top of pitch 2.
This section was very solid 5.8.
Most climbers would likely say this was 5.9 moves.

Pitch 2 was about 30m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. Once at the roof, moves to get above the roof were solid 5.8. Below the second station, the climbing was very sustained and felt more like 5.9 moves. Laurie used the first station he reached, it included rap rings. I started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, then got to a two bolt station. We eventually climbed the full route in 4 pitches, not the described 6. I am assume the two bolt station about 12 metres from where we set belay station 2 was meant to be a short pitch? Or I shouldn't have used the anchor with rings? I didn't clip either of the two bolts and kept climbing.

OSWB at top of pitch 2.
Photo by Laurie.

Looking up from the top of our pitch 2 belay station.
(station with rappel rings)

2 bolt station about 12 metres above the station we used.

Looking down pitch 3, just above crux.
Crux section 5.8 to 5.9 moves.

Looking ahead to the station I used for the top of pitch 3.
Bolts with rappel rings.

Views to the north.

Pitch 3 was about 36m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. As I mentioned, started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, didn't clip either of the two bolts at anchor and kept climbing. A bolt or two above the 2 bolt station, this pitch gets serious, about 20 metres of fun hard 5.9 climbing. Well protected with bolts, at easy to reach locations, but the climbing is hard with small holds, basically all foot smears, bring your grippy shoes. 10 bolts above the two bolt anchor to rappel ring anchor.

The boys on top of pitch 3.
The fabulous Wasootch Tower behind.
Photo by Laurie.

Weather was on and off, but often lots of blue sky.

Looking up pitch 4.
I used this station that included rap rings.
Laurie said there was another two bolt station without rap rings,
just above the second bolt in this photo.

Moving up pitch 4, lots of fun 5.7 moves.

Another two bolt station with rappel rings.
This station was 7 bolts above the ringless station above my ringed station.
We used this station for our second rap on the way down.

Pitch 4 was about 46m in length with 16 bolts(?); 5.7. Okay, Laurie should have stopped at one of these lower stations, especially since he ran out of draws; he thought he was close and wanted to finish it. Great pitch, mostly fun 5.7, maybe some 5.8 moves, but lots of cruisey fun. Laurie did get rope drag, so yeah, recommend breaking up this pitch into two. From where I belayed pitch 4, there were two anchors between our belays, so good options for splitting this pitch into 2. Lacking a topo, we weren't sure of the length of the pitches, but doing the route in 4 pitches wasn't too bad.