Tuesday, May 19, 2026

Lumpy Corner - 5.8, 55 metres (2 pitches)

 

View up pitch 1 of Lumpy Corner.

2026 rock season opener! Better late than never. Got out with Carlos on Monday May 11 for an after work climb on an old favorite, Lumpy Corner. Over the decades, I have probably climbed Lumpy Corner 6 or 7 times, including back in the summers of 2022 and 2023. 

Old guy getting ready.
Photo by Carlos.

Young guy (Carlos) getting ready for pitch 1.

Great early or late season route on Barrier Bluffs, get lots of sun. Two pitches of 5.8, though the route is set with two immediate stations and a top anchor. The route is trad protection, except for 2 bolts on the tricky slab section above the second immediate anchor and 2 bolts and 1 old rusty piton on the uppermost crux moves. We did the route in two pitches, first pitch to the first station, about 24 metres and passed the second station and went to the top station, second pitch about 31 metres. 


Carlos did the first pitch. About halfway up the first pitch there is a difficult and committing traverse and a big step, with iffy pro, this makes the crux of the first pitch. Carlos had no trouble getting though and to the first station. I led the second pitch, more difficult and more fun pitch. Two cruxes, slab with small holds, then overhanging steep chimney exit, with  amazing hand holds and tricky feet stems. Great to get out.