Consolation - 5.8, 225m (7 pitches)

The money shot, Carlos making the airy traverse on pitch 6. 

Amazing day out May 24 with the young gun Carlos on Consolation. Consolation was one of the first established routes in the Ghost, put up in 1977 by Chris Perry and M. White and has become a classic multi pitch route. Mostly trad gear protection with bolted stations and bolts on hard to protect sections with a grade of old school 5.7 and 5.8 pitches. Overall, the rock is excellent quality. I led pitches 1, 3, & 5 and Carlos led pitches 2, 4, 6 & 7 (crux pitch 7). Started in the sun but in the shade after pitch 2 with a cold wind blowing on and off in the late afternoon. Highly recommended route. Awesome day out. 

Lumpy Corner - 5.8, 55 metres (2 pitches)

 

View up pitch 1 of Lumpy Corner.

2026 rock season opener! Better late than never. Got out with Carlos on Monday May 11 for an after work climb on an old favorite, Lumpy Corner. Over the decades, I have probably climbed Lumpy Corner 6 or 7 times, including back in the summers of 2022 and 2023. 

Old guy getting ready.
Photo by Carlos.

Young guy (Carlos) getting ready for pitch 1.

Great early or late season route on Barrier Bluffs, get lots of sun. Two pitches of 5.8, though the route is set with two immediate stations and a top anchor. The route is trad protection, except for 2 bolts on the tricky slab section above the second immediate anchor and 2 bolts and 1 old rusty piton on the uppermost crux moves. We did the route in two pitches, first pitch to the first station, about 24 metres and passed the second station and went to the top station, second pitch about 31 metres. 

Carlos did the first pitch. About halfway up the first pitch there is a difficult and committing traverse and a big step, with iffy pro, this makes the crux of the first pitch. Carlos had no trouble getting though and to the first station.

Crux of first pitch.

OSWB on second, just above pitch 1 crux.
Photo by Carlos.

I led the second pitch, more difficult and more fun pitch. Two cruxes, slab with small holds, then overhanging steep chimney exit, with  amazing hand holds and tricky feet stems. Great to get out. 

OSWB heading up pitch 2.
Photo by Carlos.

Looking down first section of pitch 2.

Lower crux on pitch 2.
Photo by Carlos.

Route crux, upper crux on pitch 2.
Photo by Carlos.

Finishing upper section of pitch 2.
Photo by Carlos.

Carlos heading up pitch 2.

Upper corner new top of pitch 2.

Carlos on rappel. 

View south into the Kananaskis Valley.