Mt. Potts is a hidden gem, hiding behind
Opal Ridge, with only a glimpse available up the narrow walls of lower Grizzly
Creek from Highway 40. Major summit, approximately 3000m and about the 5 or 6 th
highest in the Opal Range. Back in 2014, Raff and I attempted the South East Ridge
from the col between Potts/Evan-Thomas, but it was late October and a lot of
snow along the summit ridge proved to slow for the short fall days and we
bailed.
I could find three routes described, a
lot of routes for such an obscure mountain. The standard route appears to the South East ridge route, with access from a
variety lines from the cirque between Potts and Evan-Thomas; this is the line
of the first ascent in 1954. I believe most parties that ascend the SE ridge
access the ridgeline close to the low point along the col, providing for a fun
lengthy journey up the ridge. Rick Collier solo’ed the West Ridge in 2008,
vaguely suggest at 5.7/8+ ish terrain; likely this route is unrepeated. A more direct line up a low angled gully to
the SE ridge, closer to the summit, exists on the South Face. This south gully
route is now published in Alan Kane’s third edition of “Scrambles in the
Canadian Rockies”, so likely this peak will become busier and more known.
I solo scrambled the south gully to the
SE ridge on Friday, July 14 with prefect weather and conditions. Fantastic solo day in the hills. Almost too
hot, but really, a perfect summer day. With a late start, left the trail head
about noon, the hike up the steep creek side trail gains elevation
quickly. Soon after leaving the car I
spied another solo hiker heading up the trail.
I caught up to this gentleman and discovered he was traversing the
northern section of Opal Ridge, descending to the trail at Fortress Junction. We
had a fun conservation and said goodbye as I headed towards the cirque between
Potts and Evan-Thomas and he up to the saddle between Potts/Opal Ridge. Made
quick time up the scree and just below the low angled rock band at the end of
cirque, I stopped for my first break and spied the route described by Alan Kane
(also the route taken by the Nugara’s), 2 hours to this rest spot. The route is
a golden highway (okay light brown) that quickly ascends moderate terrain (and
turns out mostly solid) to just below the summit. What a cool little direct route!
Over the scrappy slabby rockband, across
one snow patch in the drainage gully, then an easy hike to the base of the
golden highway. The lowest section was beautiful hard water worn rock without
scree, a pleasure to ascend, then above a steep step and chokestone, the gully
got less steep, but did have rock litter over the solid base, but overall, a
pleasant ascent. Well the gully is, of
course foreshortened, and the slog continued.
Overall a very enjoyable moderate scramble, not sure if this gully would
rank as difficult, but not a simple hike either. The exit to the summit ridge, just above
another short steep step with a chokestone, is steep, very loose scree, but
short.
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| View up gully. |
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| Constant gully, but least the views get better |
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| View to final summit ridge, out of the gully, yeah! |
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| Summit ridge |
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| Nearing summit block |
The final ridge section is exposed, but
the rock quality wasn’t too bad. I think
this final ridge section is more moderate than difficult, but not a cake walk
for sure. 5 hours from the car, I
reached the large summit cairn of Mount Potts.
The name is unofficial, but is well used by local scramblers/climbers.
Very cool old school summit register, a thick copper pipe. It still contains the original 1954 register!
I spent nearly an hour on the summit, enjoying the beautiful weather and
views.
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| Summit view to Mt. Evan-Thomas and the minor Grizzly Peak to right |
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| OSWB on summit |
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| Cool old copper tubing register |
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| Original summit entry, FA team thought they were on Mt. Evan-Thomas; not so. |
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| Summit view to double summit of Mt. Denny |
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| Summit view to Mt. Evan-Thomas |
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| Summit view to northern end of Opal Ridge |
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| Cool steep, outlier tower off of West Ridge, Grizzly Peak behind |
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| View from ridge down south gully route |
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| Last view to gully route |
Turned out I was only 3 hours
back to the car. Nice quick descent. Car to car I was 9 hours and had a great time
on this scramble. Considering how close to Calgary, and how close to the road,
this peak is, I am sure it will become popular as a nice trip day from town.
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| Evening light on north side of Grizzly Peak from Grizzly Creek |
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