Tasting Fear - WI5, 30m

After a few attempts to get a couple of first ascents on ice that didn't work due to snow and ice conditions, final got out for some ice cragging.  Meet up with Ian G. for a fun day of playing on top rope on the short, but steep ice route, Tasting Fear. This short pumpy grade 5 route is located way up Galatea Creek. I had to break trail through boot top snow for most of the approach, which seemed pretty long.  Cool little waterfall and bay in the canyon where the climb is located. Climbed up easy mixed terrain left of the pillar then set up a top rope and enjoyed a few steep laps.

Great fun to be on ice again.  

GR 368155 ('Opoca Peak') - South Ridge Attempt 5.8+ R

Part of my Opal 35 Project, and also since it is a cool little peak, Laurie and I set off to attempt the South Ridge of GR 368155 ’Opoca Peak’ in the Opal Range on August 26 after work. This little peak is between Mt. Wintour to the north and Gap Mtn. to the south and has a large vertical summit block. I applied the name of Opoca Peak since it is along the divide between Opal and Elpoca Creeks.  I have been most of the way up the South Ridge of Opoca Peak with Vern, Eric and Steven back in January 2014. We turned around because of the lateness of the day, but we never got a good look at the start of the vertical ridge section.

Looking up South Ridge

I was hopeful that the ridge was in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, well it turned out to be tougher. The broad ridge ends at an overhanging wall, not too tall, maybe 7 or 8 metres, but overhanging, blank for rock protection and loose. Around the prow of the ridge on the east aspect, I found a loose and chossy chimney that was about 5.6 or 5.7, but the left side of the chimney was incredibly loose and likely would have fallen off if I used it as a hold. This section also had no protection. I climbed up about 5 metres and bailed due to the looseness of the rock. Back to the overhang.

5.7 death choss chimney

The overhang did have a nice foot ledge traverse from the lowest section towards the steepest and tallest section of the overhang. This traverse was a pumpy 5.8, with a huge, powerful move required to transition from the overhang to the lower angled rock on the lower angled section of the ridge (5.8+ R).  This traverse and the big move up were not protectable with your feet now about 5 metres above the nasty crash zone. The move up into easy terrain looked incredibly loose. I tried for well over an hour to get a piton into the rock, but the rock was too either too tight or too loose.  Not wanting to risk the big move without protection, we bailed. We searched for alternative routes for about an hour, no luck, so we turn our tails and headed home.  I will be back for the North Ridge/East Face route one day soon.

5.8+ R lower section

Mount Fisher - Scramble

Had hopes for some big mountains in the Rockies, but unstable weather was hanging around in mid August, so I ended up with a fun and easy scramble to end my holiday. I meet up with Steven Song and we decided the best chance for fair weather was on the western side of the Southern Rockies; thus our objective became Mount Fisher.

Mt. Fisher is the landmark icon in the southern Columbia Valley near Cranbrook and Kimberly, British Columbia. This shapely mountain towers above the surrounding peaks and is a very popular scramble for locals. It is reported that the Stanley Cup (NHL champion cup) has been to the summit of Mt. Fisher twice.

The crux of the day is finding the right logging road to access the trailhead. Rough road for 8 km makes the start of the steep hike. A short steep hike takes one to a beautiful sub-alpine valley and onto a steep col. Great scenery once above tree line. Mostly an easy slog to the summit, with one or two hands on and exposed scramble section just below the pointed summit. We had limited views, but did get a sneak a peek at the impressive Mt. Washburn, high on my list now.

Good choice for a day of very unstable weather. Great to bag this beautiful little peak, fun day out.

GR 376159 ('East Opoca ') - Scramble

Thursday August 14 Raff and I had hoped the weather would hold and we were keen to attempt Mt. Jerram. On the hike up Opal Creek, the clouds got thicker and thicker and lower and lower, so we turned our attention to the low summit of Opoca Peak (GR 368155). Opoca Peak, thusly named since it divides Opal and Elpoca Creeks, is a short, but tough technical climb with zero beta.

Mt. Jerram (l) and North and South Cat's Ears (r)

We were hoping to ascend quickly as we knew the rain would come soon. We slogged up to the col between Opoca Peak and East Opoca, hiked to intersection of this col and the north ridge of Opoca Peak. Searched a variety of locations along the steep face for the best line, geared up, rock shoes on, then the hard rain started. We removed our rock gear and decided to hike in the pouring rain to the low summit of East Opoca (GR 376159), about 1 kilometre to the east.

View to East Opoca

Fun and scenic hike considering the awful weather. The driving rain stopped as we reached this little summit (2450m).  We did the quick hike over to the slightly lower eastern highpoint as well. A fun hike with great views with lots of wet weather.

Mount Nelson - Scramble

Meet up with TJ and Meg the day after Barber Rock for a classic Columbia Valley scramble; Mount Nelson. A very prominent peak from the Invermere area. Mt. Nelson reaches an impressive height of 3315 metres and has a striking summit block. This peak is highly sought by locals and often is the pinnacle of some locals alpine experiences. Actually it is a moderate (Class 3) scramble to a prominent summit with fantastic views of the Rockies and Purcells, including the Bugaboos.

This moderate scramble packs a punch though; about 2000 metres of gain, with the first 600 metres or so on a very steep dirt trail. The hands on scrambling is crazy loose, with a fall presenting terrible consequences. Overall this scramble is a very fine, technically easy, romp to the top of an impressive summit.

Scrambling on summit block.

All approach information and route description is available in the Matt Gunn's excellent trail guide (Hikes Around Invermere & the Columbia River Valley).

Summit shot.

Summit Cross, it is big.

Solitaire (Barbour Rock) - Sport Climbing

The semi famous Barbour Rock. I first learned of this obscure crag in the mid 1990's, it is almost masked in legend; great rock, short approach, diversity of climbs and almost to hot to climb in the summer. 

No published beta, but it can see a lot of traffic. My buddy TJ (who grew up in Invermere) set me up for an awesome day of cragging at this venue. TJ and Meg were at this crag about a week earlier and had fresh beta on the routes. I enjoyed several leads, probably up to sport 5.9 with far spaced bolts. TJ lead a great 10b ish route with a crazy tough overhang crux off the deck, awesome TR for me. 

Appreciate the peek at this great venue with awesome company.

GR 334290 ('Rocky Peak') West Gully/Face, West Ridge - 5.6, Alpine II

Rocky Peak is a large and looming mountain located near the northern terminus of the Opal Range in Elbow-Sheep Wildland Provincial Park. This peak does not have an official name and, until recently, there was no record, neither written nor shared in pubs, about an ascent of this significant mountain. The sharp summit reaches an elevation of 2915 metres (9,564 feet) and is the sixteenth highest summit in the Opal Range (I have identified 35 significant highpoints in the range). 

I applied the name of “Rocky Peak” to this northern end of the main Opal Range since it is the head waters of Rocky Creek, which is an official watercourse name. This high peak is just south of The Wedge/”MacKay Hills” highpoint, which is the extreme northern end of the Opal Range. Rocky Peak ends the range to the north, but is connected to the south to ‘Mount Denny’ (GR 338277). The summit of Rocky Peak is about 1 kilometre north of Mt. Denny (3000 m) and shared col between is approximately at 2800 metres; giving Rocky Peak a prominence of 115 metres from the col.

The only recorded ascent of this mountain is by me. My long time office friend (L. Kimber) and I (Kevin Barton) ascended the complex and broken West Face via a steep slab gully, then face climbing to the upper summit ridge, West Ridge, on July 2, 2014. We found no cairn or evidence of previous ascents. I built a cairn on the highpoint (northern tower) and left a makeshift summit register, which will probably be eaten by the numerous summit pikas.

Opal Ridge crest

A hike up Opal Ridge provides the most direct approach, but does require about 850 metres of elevation up Opal Ridge, then a descend of 300 metres to Rocky Creek, and of course, the same on the return. This direct approach is about 3 kilometres from the parking area to the base of the west slopes of Rocky Peak. Reach the ridge crest in about 1.5 hours, descend easy east slopes to west slopes of Rocky Peak.

My original goal was to ascend the prominent West Rib on the west side of Rocky Peak, but my partner was concerned about the time required to pitch out this route, and still have time to make the summit. We had a great view of this cool rib as we climbed the easy Class 3 gully beside it. I would guess it mostly goes at 5.6, with the odd harder step, maybe up to 5.7 or 5.8. Looked like a fun route, maybe one day I can return to climb it. 

The West Rib is an obvious landmark on the west side of Rocky Peak. We ascended the low angled gully beside it. Mostly an easy scree hike with the odd short slab section. Efficient and fast height gain up gully. Gully ends in a steep wall, we solo’ed from gully to top of West Rib; first on 30 metres of 5.6 slab, then about 40 metres of 5.5 slab to easy scree to top of rib. From top of rib about 150 metres of steep slab, but solid and great holds (Class 4) lead to the summit ridge. Follow summit ridge to summit, mostly 5.2 or 5.3 on loose ridge, if pitching about 5 rope lengths to summit tower.

My newly built summit cairn seen on descent.

Our descend was down steep scree and slab sections of the South/South West Face. We did run into a steep section that we downclimbed. This section was about 70 metres of steep 5.7/5.8 that was difficult to protect. We did leave 3 pitons (2 pin anchor at the top), 1 piton about 15 metres below the 2 piton anchor. Left pitons since my partner did not have a hammer. Once below this wall, easy Class 3 to scree and back to Rocky Creek drainage. Return over Opal Ridge.

Aftonroe - 5.7, 220 m (9 pitches)

This relatively new route has become a Bow Valley moderate classic.  The route was pioneered and equipped by two local climbing guides, Mark Klassen and Todd Anthony-Malone. Mostly a steep slab route on super firm and fun rock with cruxes well protected. This 9 pitch route requires a rappel descent, great half day outing.

The route Aftonroe became an instant classic as soon as the climbing community became aware of it.  I heard a lot of great things about this route and I was keen to climb it. Having just climbed it on Monday June 23, I agree with the common sentiment; super fun casual route on great rock. We had a mixed of sun, rain and wind on our climb, but windy conditions help to dry off the rock.

M. Klassen and T. Anthony-Malone developed this route on the far right hand side (east end) of the sport climbing venue, Guide’s Rock. The rock is primarily steep and very texture limestone slab.  Unlikely most slab rock formations, much of this route has fantastic hand holds with deep incut holds with super positive grip. The cruxes (Pitch 3 and 7) either have blank slab sections or slight overhanging bulges requiring delicate slab/friction moves; but don’t mistake this for meaning the route is a sketchy and frightening slab shake fest, the majority of the route has a great amount of incredible holds.  The spacing of bolts can be a bit far apart, but all crux moves are well protected.

Some people recommend linking some of the shorter pitches, but we climbed all pitches as individual pitches, using all bolted anchor stations. The set up for bolts and positions for anchors make climbing the full 9 pitches a breeze. We only brought a total of 9 quick draws and kept the rack nice and light.

Rappelled off the belay stations for a total of 8 raps, the station from the top of pitch two reaches the ground in 30 metres, obviously you need at least a 60 metre rope to reach safe ground.

Heart Mtn. to Grant MacEwan Peak traverse

It has been a winter of discontent. I was suffering most of 2014 with excruciating back, hip and leg pain; turns out I had one or two herniated disks in my lower spine. It put me out of action for months. Finally recovered enough to consider a hike or scramble. Laurie K. joined me for a fantastic after work scramble traverse of Heart Mountain to Grant MacEwan Peak. Great weather, fun times, all in about 4.5 hours for the traverse, loved being back in action.

King Creek Seeps - 30-50m, WI3

John and I got out ice climbing again. Apparently we like climbing together in the cold, overnight temperatures were -34 in the mountains and when we left Calgary is was about -27. John hadn’t led any ice yet this season and wanted an easy lead, so we headed to King Creek. I was hoping to grow a pair and lead “Magic Touch” (5.8 WI3R), but with the -25 conditions and the dark shade of the canyon I chickened out on the mixed climbing.


We each led a few pitches, then would second the pitch, rappel off and repeat. Considering the cold weather, the ice was not horrible. We later thought we should have picked a sunny ice crag since we were just out of the warm sun all day. Bright blue bird day, just not in the canyon. Fun and casual cold weather climbing; had King Creek to ourselves, but is was Monday and about -20 all day.

Rogan's Gully - 300m, WI3

Cold day, with deteriorating weather called for an easy climb where we could keep on the move. John and I met up for the second time this season and decided on Rogan's Gully, a climb neither of us had been to before. Since the temperate hovered around -20 C most of the day, with lots of high wind, so the easy grade and longish length seemed like a good choice for the day.

First pitch from approach

To our surprise, there were about 4 parties climbing Cascade Falls on this cloudy cold Monday morning (February 3) and one party we could see on the first pitch of Rogan's. Easy and quick hike to the base of the route, and the party we saw were still finishing the first pitch, they were moving slow and we did catch up to them. 

Fun, easy pitch of easy grade WI3, I used bolts on the left rock wall for station; the previous party did this pitch in two short pitches, with the same leader, I guess he wanted the ice belay practice? After the first pitch, a longish snow climb to the "narrows" which was a cool tight canyon with easy mixed climbing over the steps. Just above the last pitch has two options, both look fun, we took the long and steeper (more climbed as well) right hand side.  Solid 60 metres of nice grade WI3, fun lead and felt like a total cruise, I wanted about 4 more pitches of that ice. 

Final pitch, fun!

We had to wait a bit for the other party, once up the pitch, they indicated to me that they we going to slog up to look for more ice, by time I brought up John, they returned indicating no more ice. We did the walk off route, it has one short rap, fresh tracks from the Cascade Falls crowd made this easy. Great option for such a cold blustery day, great fun!

Winter attempt of Opoca Peaks

It is good to have friends who will follow you on crazy adventures. As part of my Opal 35 Project , I was joined by my good climbing buddies Vern, Eric and Steven for an attempt on the Opoca Peaks on January 25. Un-official names I created for two minor highpoints, both with two summits. The taller mountain is about 2480 metres (GR368155) is located between Mt. Wintour and Gap Mtn. was named Opoca for the two creek that surround it, Opal Creek and Elpoca Creek. The lower eastern highpoint, 2440 metres, was identified as “East Opoca”.

West Face of main summit Opoca Peak

East Opoca is a hike or ski to the top, Opoca Peak requires some 5th class climbing, no beta, so no idea on the grade, length or location of the best route. The original plan for this winter ascent was to ski up the closed highway (about 6 km) to Elpoca Creek, up the creek (about 4 km) and ski up to the twin summits of East Opoca, then descend to the shared col and assess an attempt on the northern end of Opoca Peak.

Well the highway ski was simple and fast, the ski up Elpoca Creek required extensive and arduous trail breaking, mostly done by me. Once we gained a view of East Opoca, we were well above the creek bed, and a few vertical cliff bands. The summit of East Opoca would require descent through steep, and potentially serious avalanche terrain; where as the south ridge of Opoca Peak loomed close over head.

What we could see of Opoca Peak, steep step on right.

We decided to check out the south ridge route, although we could not clearly see our summit from our angle. Ditched the skis, then a few quick hundred metres of easy scree bashing to a narrow ridge of moderate/difficult scrambling took us on the aesthetic south summit ridge. About 300 metres along the crest, the ridge raised in a steep wall. No way to tell if the summit was on top, I suspect it was further along the ridge. The steep step was likely about 5.6/5.7 climbing for about 50 metres; I was keen to try it out, the rest of team, not so much. We decided to head home. Faster ski out because of the nice packed ski track, then a plod on the highway. No summit, but some good beta on the Opoca Peaks and fun with my friends.

Steep step on south ridge.

Green Monster - 35m, WI4+

No I haven’t quit climbing or blogging about my minor adventures; I was just really, really busy the last half of 2013. New baby, busy job and some minor surgery kept me home the last few months. Got out with Tyler and John to upper Evan-Thomas Creek on January 6, 2014. First trip with these boys and we didn’t have a lot of time so we headed out for some low commitment climbing. Neither of the boys had been to upper ETC, so they were interested in the location. Cold spell just before our climb, in fact, about 24 hours before our trip the lows were -35 C (air temperature, not wind chill) so the ice was brittle.

Neither John nor I were keen to lead the 4+ (maybe WI 5?) curtain on Green Monster, but Tyler was. Once the top rope was set up, we all took turns up and down the curtain. Good times, I think we each did about 5 or 6 climbs, great workout. Cold day in the shadow of the canyon, never warmed up to the promised -5, warmest was maybe -15? Good to be back in the mountains.

Kevin TR'ing

Coronet Mountain - North West Ridge, Alpine II

Had a great trip with young Steven S. I only say young because he is less than half my age; impressive kid, loves mountains and is climbing them at an incredible rate of speed, but smart guy and not pushing his luck, seems a like solid guy to me.

Originally I had a crazy plan to day trip (24 hours +/-) Mt. Warren, but turns out we couldn’t do it.  The back up plan was Coronet Mountain, hopefully by the exciting North Glacier route (FA 1962 W. Pfisterer et.al.), but we couldn’t access the glacier since it was high above a vertical cliff with vertical ice walls, must have receded since 1962?  In the end we slogged up the North West Ridge (FA 1930 D. Sharpe et.al.) on loose scree, then solid easy ridge, ending with a short, fun snow climb on the glacier between the two highest summits.

Summit of Coronet Mountain (3152m)

After a full day of work for me, we met in Calgary, drove up to Jasper and left the parking lot about 8 pm.  Good pace on the first 10 km of trail, but soon after we took to the bush to gain the small drainage east of Poligne Creek, we got hit with a light rain that soaked the bush. Once up the drainage, we escaped to the scree slopes on the far south end of Coronet Mountain.  Travel was a bit slow, not too bad, but around 1am we decided to call it quits before we reached the col on the north end of Coronet.  Had hoped to at least reach the alpine tarn at this col, but we were about 1 km short. 

Bivy

Slept about 4 hours, decided to try the North Glacier on Coronet, but the glacier was too difficult to access.  Long slog up the North-West Ridge, but fun snow climb to main summit from sub-summit. Lots of exposed ice and a few cracks were visible, but all probing showed solid ice where we wanted it. Fun summit  (3152m) with great views to many 11,000’ers, Mt. Alberta stole the show of course. Quick plod down and back down creek.  Made the car 24 hours after leaving, long drive home and tried at work the next day. Got to love coffee!

Baldy - Cragging

Fun, but short morning of cragging at the Mt. Baldy crag.  Raff K. only gave me beta on this nice little crag about a week ago.  I did find some good information on this area on rockclimbing.com

Karen is feeling pretty rough with her pregnancy, so I had only planned on a half day of cragging with Pat and his wife Susie, but our morning (Sunday June 9) was cut short with rain that arrived earlier than forecasted.  This crag is close to Calgary and has a short approach.  Not many routes, but they are well identified since the bottom of each route has a plaque indicating name, length and grade.  The routes are well equipped with good spacing and placement of bolts and double rings on the top anchors. We only climbed a few 5.6 and 5.7 routes, but they felt much easy than the quoted grade.  We were about to hop on a few 5.9’s and an easy looking 5.10a, when we were hit hard by rain.  Our last route was a three “pitch” 5.7 route, Cedar City.  Second pitch was a funny short pitch that wasn’t really climbing and had a cable handrail, the upper section of the last pitch was fun.  Definitely will hit this crag after work soon and try the stiffer routes.

Wasootch Slabs - Cragging

Great day out with some early season cragging, first day on rock for me this season.  Meet up with Pat for an enjoyable day at Wasootch Slabs.  I led up all routes, rapped off, and then Pat led and also rapped.  Each did 5 leads, had hoped to do more, but the crag got really busy mid day and route selection was limited. Started on B slab with a couple of short bolted 5.6 routes.  Then off to F slab for a 5.7 bolted route, then a 5.4/5.6, trad/bolted route. Had really hoped to get on Orange Arete (5.8 bolted route), but it was busy or it’s close neighbour were always busy.  Finished on a longer and nice bolted 5.6 route on B slab wall.  Great weather, great to meet and climb with Pat.

King Creek Ridge

May 6, still dismayed from the Columbia Icefield trip, and wanting to take advantage of the high pressure system that was providing perfect weather, completely clear skies, warm temperatures and no wind; I headed out for a short day that still allowed some quality family time in the evening.  As part of my Opal 35 Project, and to get great views and some exercise, King Creek Ridge filled the bill.  Bottom third of the trail as dry, middle third was ice/mud and top third of the trail to the ridge was boot deep snow.

Once on the ridge the snow got very deep, up to waist deep and the odd section that was about armpit deep! Short sections along the western edge of the ridge provided reprieve from the deep snow.  Getting higher on the ridge where was an abundance of Rocky Mountain Sheep, probably saw about 25 sheep.  Even with the deep snow, I was able to keep a strong pace, probably since was living around 10,000 feet the last 3 days? 

The first highpoint was snowy and I was wondering about a cornice, but once I stood on the cairn, it was clear it was very safe, off to the next highpoint, where the signature Canada flag pole littered the top, no flag material was left. Leaving this highpoint got a bit exciting since I hugged the eastern edge of the ridge to avoid snow, it was a bit airy.  Nearing the final, highest, northern summit, two mountain goats ran off the summit.  Always cool to see the more reclusive mountain goat in K-country. Fantastic views to the Opal Range.  With the snow plowed out, I made quick time back to the dry trail.  Fun hike in perfect weather.

The Twins’ Trip – “West Twin” East Face, Alpine II

High hopes and expectations for this planned 4 day trip to the Columbia Icefields ended in a hugely disappointing trip for me. I always like to stay positive, but this trip really bummed me out and left me feeling quite frustrated. I had strong and well experienced rope team members (Anton and Ian), but a combination of warm temperatures and hot sun slow our pace thus our camp was far from The Twins.  Original plan was for 4 days to summit all 4 twins (North, South, Twins Tower and West Twin) and the 2 Stutfield Peaks (North and South) and tick off six 11,000’ers, but in the end I only got up one summit, West Twin (11,024 feet, 3360m) and we left the Icefield on the third day, May 5.

Sunset on The Twins from camp

At the of end day one Anton, Ian and I sent up camp beside Vern, Jason and TJ.  These boys were only planning on West and South Twin since they summitted North and Twins Tower last year.  Early start on day two, long ski towards The Twins, over the shoulder of North Twin, down to Twins Col, then skied to East Face of West Twin.  JW blasted up the deep snow of the East Face and set an awesome track for us to follow.  Easily tagged the summit of West Twin, then quick descent back to the skis.

Nearing East Face of West Twin

Skied back towards the North Ridge of South Twin, skied to the bottom of a short, but steep glacier ice slope.  Took off the skis and changed to crampons.  Anton and Ian started up the slope, with the plan to protect this section with a running belay protected by ice screws.  Vern, Jason and TJ were slightly behind us, approaching on skis. About half way up the ice slope, Anton picked a line on snow to avoid the icy section, while the snow patch was covering a crevasse and poor Anton went for a quick ride into the hole.  



Where did Anton go?

TJ and JW used their rope and went to the rescue up the icy pitch.  Vern and I chilled on the flat snow terrain, while Ian held the top end of Anton’s rope.  Great effort by JW and TJ to build an ice anchor and get  Anton out.  Anton didn’t get a scratch, but poor guy spent two hours in the hole. We packed up and did the long ski back to camp. 

Once at camp, ambition from Anton (understandable) and Ian was gone to do the long ski back to the northern Icefield, so no desire to attempt any of the Twins or the Stutfield Peaks.  Ian hadn’t been up Mt. Kitchener, Anton hadn’t been up Snowdome; these peaks were close to camp and an easy ski.  I have been up both these peaks, so I had no partners to climb any of my objectives. 

Day three TJ, Vern, Anton and Ian skied up Kitchener, JW and I stayed in camp. Later in the morning we broke camp, then TJ, JW, Vern and Anton skied up Snowdome, then us 6 headed home. 3 day trip to get up West Twin, yeah.  It took a lot of effort to get 4 days away from home and the office, this trip felt like a waste of time for me.

The Professor Falls - 280m WI4

Had a great day with my old climbing buddy Jason, it has been awhile since we climbed some ice together.  Originally I was super keen for a ski day and ideally a summit, but warm weather and spring conditions were ripe for isothermic snow, so Jason and I headed to The Professor Falls, a.k.a. Professor’s.

I think I first climbed Professor’s with Ian Hunt, Andy Meyers and Geoff (?) in December of 1995.  I am fairly sure I repeated the route in 96, 97, 98, 99 and I sure the last time I was there was in March of 2000 with Shawn Klimchuk. 

This winter I have hit a couple of routes I did with Ian back in the day BITD, Coire Dubh Integrale and Guinness Gully and last weekend, Professor’s.  Cloudy and brisk day with light snow and temps around -3 all day, solid and beautiful blue ice on Professor’s. I lead a couple of the lower pitches, JW a few of upper pitches and a bit of easy soloing in the middle.  Great day with a great friend on a great route; best ice day in a long time. 

Guinness Gully - 245m, WI 4

First climbed Guinness Gully back in March of 1997 with Ian Hunt. Back on March 11 Kyle and I had a late start, but great ice conditions for March, 2013.  Leading the third pitch felt tougher in 2013 than in 1997, I guess my age is catching up with me?  Also in the 96/97 ice season I probably had about 25 days of ice climbing, in 12/13 I have only had five or six days of mixed or ice climbing.  Fun day out.

Kyle on first pitch