Mt. Bryce - NE Ridge attempt

 

Steve's Subi on the Rice Brook road. 
This road is slowly falling into Rice Brook.

Steve wading across Rice Brook.
It was much higher on our hike out the next day. 

Super hot day on our approach up Rice Brook. 

Steve is looking energetic and chipper. 
Watchman Peak visible in the distance.

Watchman Peak

Working around ice steps on the lower glacier as we ascended.

Our bivy site between the two glaciers, at about 2200m.

Approximate route.
Steve's car parking in Rice Brook (blue dot).
Red line is approach on Aug. 8.
Orange dot is our bivy spot.
Orange line is our short journey on Aug. 9, back out via red line.

Pre dawn light on Watchman Peak.

Super clear morning as we ascended to the 2800 col.

The southern high point of the NE Ridge.
We assumed we should climb the snow/ice patch?

View to Snowdome from the 2800m col.

The beautiful North-East Ridge of Mt. Bryce

The 2850m bump we ascended to enjoy the views. 

Columbia Icefield with Snowdome in the back centre horizon.

The twins.
South Twin (left) and North Twin (right)

Mt. Columbia looking grand.

Steve on our descent of the upper glacier on the east aspect.
On camp is visible, red tent, in the gravel flats to skier's left of the lower
glacier toe. 

“West Baldy” West Ridge - Scramble

The "crux" section of the West Ridge 

Fun and easy scramble up the West Ridge of "West Baldy" on a casual Saturday afternoon outing (August 6). I think every scrambler in Calgary and the Bow Valley have done this scramble; and for good reason, tons of fun! Solid rock and lots of fun moves on this difficult scramble. Recommended. 

View down to the other scrambler who caught up to me at the summit.

Lots of fun hands on scrambling.

Summit selfie

Mount Cory - Scramble

View to upper ridge section of Mt. Cory

July 28 had a hot and sunny day on the simple scramble of the South Ridge of Mt. Cory. I was looking at the topo map and thought I could reach other summits further north of Mt. Cory, but it turned out the connecting ridge was more complex and longer than I anticipated, so I enjoy on the views and ascent up Mt. Cory itself. Second trip up Mt. Cory, first trip was 20 years ago with Martin Siddles in August of 2002. Wow, I am old. 

View to summit

View north along long ridge line.

Mt. Louis

Poser

Wasootch Tower - North Ridge Direct 5.7R, 270m (7 pitches)

 

Classic view of Wasootch Tower.

Friday June 10 Laurie and I enjoyed a Kananaskis classic, Wasootch Tower, North Ridge Direct. Wasootch Tower is special to me since it was the location of my first multi pitch climb ever; way back in the summer of 1994. In 1994 we climbed the easiest line up the north ridge/face at about 5.5; no bolted anchors. Haven't been up Wasootch Tower since 1994.

Despite being a fairly popular climb, the beta is a bit inconsistent. I think the description on Mountainproject.com is closer to the line I took in 1994, except the 5.7 overhang pitch, which I didn't climb this in 1994. On our 2022 ascent, this 5.7 overhang was the best pitch. Based on Jordan's excellent topo map below, I would say our route was more direct on the ridge throughout; recommended.

Jordan's topo. Our line was more direct on the ridge,
Approximately where the orange arrows are.

I agree with beta on gripped.com that rates the cruxes at 5.7R with 7 pitches of climbing. The topo we used is below, the line described was bang on, but pitches are stiffer than the topo states and few of labeled bolts are not there. 

The topo we used, it was great.
Some of the grades are off on this topo; some pitches 
more difficult than listed. (up to 5.7R)

In my opinion, I would rate the pitches at P1-5.7, P2-5.4, P3-5.6, P4-5.6, P5-5.6, P6-5.7 & P7-5.7R. Lots of choss, but runout cruxes, cool position and history of this feature make this route a must do. Great day out. 

Hiking up on the approach.

The bottom of our pitch 1.
Well bolted, but a bit reachy to get bolt above overhang.
5.7 moves to traverse under the roof, through the roof, and heading above.
Best part of the route. 

View of upper 5.7R pitch. 
Looking up last pitch, P7.

Exposed scramble to final summit.

OSWB just below the steep scramble, just above the top of pitch 7.
Photo by Laurie

Nice new summit register.

Laurie on the summit.
I am headed to the first rap station.

Great day, super cool little feature.

Mt. Engadine - South Ridge, solo ski/scramble attempt

Mt. Engadine from the road.
South Ridge is the long ridge on the right side.

Another view to the South Ridge. 
Mt. Engadine summit is the pointy highpoint on left. 

Got out for a wonderful solo ski day on Sunday April 10. The weather had cooled off quite a bit, with some good snow pack stability, so I figured a solo ski up a good sized mountain was in order. Poking around maps and books a bit, I thought the South Ridge of Mt. Engadine would be reasonable route for winter conditions, cold temperatures, and a forecast with cloud cover in the afternoon. 

Approach trail well packed.

Started slog to South Ridge via old avi debris.

Views open up towards Mt. Birdwood and Mt. Smuts.

Used the well packed "Rummel Ridge" trail to gain access to the creek south of Mt. Engadine. Once at the end of the creek, headed up old avalanche debris, but moved to south slope in the trees. This slope was super hard, sun affected, but solid crust. Used crampons to make the long South Ridge. Once on the South Ridge proper, the ridge was fairly exposed with many steep rock steps and many scary cornices. Lots of fun snow climbing with stable conditions. 

Nearing the South Ridge, fun rock scramble. 

The ridge becomes snowy.

View to the "Tower".

View to "Rummel Ridge". Right and centre of photo.

Here comes the snow.

Lots of interesting and fun cornices.

I can finally see the summit.

Summit in the distance.

Lots of great snow features.

Nearing the summit, maybe 200 horizontal and 150 vertical metres away, there was a sharp and dramatic drop in the South Ridge. The right side (east side) was a near vertical drop, super loose rock, and no sane way to descent. The left side (west side) wasn't much better, but had the extra feature of peddles on steep slab. I looked at a few options but decided to bail. Really enjoyed the day and didn't want to risk something serious. Turned back. Did find a ridge sections where I stayed above the cornice line, easier travel then my up hill line. Great day out. 

 

Turnaround point. 

View to summit.