Le Soulier (The Shoe) - 5.7, 100 m (4 pitches)

"Le Soulier"

Awesome half day of multi pitch sport climbing. Had hoped for a full day of solid alpine sport rock, but family obligations required me to be back in town by mid afternoon.  We have had “Le Soulier” on our radar for a few seasons and with the short approach, it seemed like a good choice. Cannot beat this climb for ease of approach, a causal ten minute walk, and about a ten minutes causal walk back to the car at the end, awesome.

Base of route, ten minutes from car. LK did it in loafers. 

The route is an old trad route that was retrobolted.  The route has sections of great gear placement opportunities, but long runout sections, I can see why it wasn’t popular as a modern trad route.  The climbing is super solid 5.7, probably a modern grade of 5.8 to soft 5.9. 

Looking up the route. The first pitch is like a low 5 class scramble until the end.
3 or 4 solid 5.6 moves to gain the first anchor station, right at the base of the lone coniferous tree.

View to Mt. Rundle and the Rundlehorn route.

The first pitch is mostly a 5 class scramble until the final 3 or 4 moves, solid 5.6. The three remaining pitches are awesome 5.7, totally fun. And a great variety of holds types and techniques required to climb; great incut hand holds, sidepulls, thin slabby crimps and lots of smearing of feet.  Overall the rock is great quality, with only a wee bit of greasy worn sections, mostly poor feet at crux sections, always spicy. The rock got its name by a rock shoe left tied off on a piton on the crux section of the final pitch, this old rock shoe has been replaced by a pair of black high heels. High recommended route with great views to the Banff Springs Hotel and the Bow Valley.

View up second pitch from station, first real pitch. Solid 5.7 (modern 5.8?)
below the right slanting roof, topo did indicate straight up off of station, both choice have bolts?
Face climb straight up from anchor, line below roof is mostly left hand in great crank, both appear
to be solid 5.7.

LK ready to launch up P2. He did a great job, was thin feet and greasy where you want the most feet.

The crux of pitch 2.

P2 getting easier.

IMHO the crux of the route. Looking down on pitch 3.  About 10 metres up pitch 3,
a steep face to a super fun, and a bit greasy, bulgey, slight overhang section up through a
great notch.  Super fun, solid 5.7 (modern 5.8?). 

From station atop of pitch 3, LK nearing the station.

From anchor, looking up pitch 4 to the shoe(s).

LK leading the crux of P4, just above the shoe(s).

Le Soulier (The Shoe)

View down from the top of the route to the shoe.

Mt. Rundle again.

From top of route, view to the "Springs" hotel.