Thursday, December 25, 2014

Solid Cold - WI3, 30m


Shortest day of the year and we had a big change of plans throughout the day. Originally three of us were heading to the Ghost, likely to solo THOS and climb some of the upper bowl pitches, but JW’s truck had a mechanical on the way, luckily while still on pavement; we limped back to town. John and I headed to K-country to salvage the day, most crags looked busy; I had long wondered about Solid Cold, so we went for it.

The main ice flow is hidden behind a rock buttress, the left hand  side  of the "y"

Park at Fortress Junction gas station, head up South Opal Ridge trail. The biggest flow is obvious from the parking lot, but as you gain elevation, the climb disappears behind a large rock rib. The guidebook mentions dropping into the creek before the cliff that hold the climb, I agree, less elevation gain. Our descent into the creek was into a narrow gully, that quickly broadened into a scree slope. This descent into the creek was just before the big step, grey limestone broad buttress, that tops out at the elevation at the top of ice pitch.  Once in the creek bed, head directly up the creek, but on the left side, and paid careful attention to the snow pack. Nearing the climb ice filled the gully starting below a rock rib, we were lazy about putting on crampons and struggled to the rib on dodgy feet, scrambled up the icy rib, then finally put on the poons.

Above the rock rib we don crampons. John having a good time.

Long hike in, solid two hours; and it turned out the real climbing was only 30m of fun WI3, without considering about 100m of WI2 approach ice. Quick lead up by myself, about 30m of steepish WI3, with poor to good quality ice; I am pretty sure we are the first party up this route this year(s).

Kevin leading the short pitch.
(Photo by John B.)

Then John and I did a few TR laps on the thin edges of the flow, centre of the climb was okay, but overall the ice was sun affected and not well attached. The climb felt stiff for WI3, but it was all virgin ice, and poor quality, probably why it felt stiffer. On descent we headed straight down the creek, worked out well, only one hour out. Should note that the gully above and below the climb is usually wind loaded, this route is only recommended with low or no snow in the gully. If you don’t mind an uphill workout, this is a good spot for some easy ice, overall a fun day, with low commitment.


 
                          The real climbing. About 30m of steepish WI3, poor to good quality ice.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Tasting Fear - WI5, 30m


After a few attempts to get a couple of first ascents on ice that didn't work due to snow and ice conditions, final got out for some ice cragging.  Meet up with Ian G. for a fun day of playing on top rope on the short, but steep ice route, Tasting Fear. This short pumpy grade 5 route is located way up Galatea Creek. I had to break trail through boot top snow for most of the approach, which seemed pretty long.  Cool little waterfall and bay in the canyon where the climb is located. Climbed up easy mixed terrain left of the pillar then set up a top rope and enjoyed a few steep laps.





Great fun to be on ice again.