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| Classic view of Wasootch Tower. |
Friday June 10 Laurie and I enjoyed a Kananaskis classic, Wasootch Tower, North Ridge Direct. Wasootch Tower is special to me since it was the location of my first multi pitch climb ever; way back in the summer of 1994. In 1994 we climbed the easiest line up the north ridge/face at about 5.5; no bolted anchors. Haven't been up Wasootch Tower since 1994.
Despite being a fairly popular climb, the beta is a bit inconsistent. I think the description on Mountainproject.com is closer to the line I took in 1994, except the 5.7 overhang pitch, which I didn't climb this in 1994. On our 2022 ascent, this 5.7 overhang was the best pitch. Based on Jordan's excellent topo map below, I would say our route was more direct on the ridge throughout; recommended.
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| Jordan's topo. Our line was more direct on the ridge, Approximately where the orange arrows are. |
I agree with beta on gripped.com that rates the cruxes at 5.7R with 7 pitches of climbing. The topo we used is below, the line described was bang on, but pitches are stiffer than the topo states and few of labeled bolts are not there.
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| The topo we used, it was great. Some of the grades are off on this topo; some pitches more difficult than listed. (up to 5.7R) |
In my opinion, I would rate the pitches at P1-5.7, P2-5.4, P3-5.6, P4-5.6, P5-5.6, P6-5.7 & P7-5.7R. Lots of choss, but runout cruxes, cool position and history of this feature make this route a must do. Great day out.
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| Hiking up on the approach. |
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| The bottom of our pitch 1. Well bolted, but a bit reachy to get bolt above overhang. 5.7 moves to traverse under the roof, through the roof, and heading above. Best part of the route. |
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| View of upper 5.7R pitch. Looking up last pitch, P7. |
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| Exposed scramble to final summit. |
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| OSWB just below the steep scramble, just above the top of pitch 7. Photo by Laurie |
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| Nice new summit register. |
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| Laurie on the summit. I am headed to the first rap station. |
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| Great day, super cool little feature. |
