Grotto Falls - WI3, 55m

 

The classic Grotto Falls.

Got out with Laurie to enjoy the classic Bow Valley moderate route, Grotto Falls. Over the past 25 years or so, I have only climbed Grotto Falls four times, last time was in 2011 with Steve Blackwell when we climbed  Grotto Falls, Hers and Sketch and Sniff. Last trip prior to that was when we pulled the plug on a big alpine objective because of a big storm and we headed to Grotto Falls with Andrew Nugara, Raff K. and Jason Wilcox way back in 2007. After that climb, we headed up Grotto Creek and took a look at Crystal Tear, but didn't reach the ice. My only trip to Crystal Tear was Jordan Ramey in 2012, that was a fun climb. 

Approach ice below Grotto Falls.

Laurie at base of Grotto Falls.

After gearing up, I led up pitch 1, only about 30 metres, to the lower bolted station. Brought up Laurie. Laurie decided to lead pitch 2. After his lead, I seconded, then we rapped back to the base of the route. I lead up pitch 1 again and set a top rope up on the lower bolts. We did a few laps on top rope on the steeper section on the left side. Very warm day out, and we had the climb to ourselves. Had thought about leading up Hers on the walk out, but the sun had just set, and since we were only out for a casual afternoon, we headed home. Fun afternoon of ice cragging. 

Laurie leading up pitch 2.

Laurie on the last rap of day. 

Fun times at Grotto Falls. 

Corba Verde - WI3, 250m

 

Yes, back at this route again. Considering I have never been to this route before 2020, it is even surprising to me that I have now been to this route 3 times since February 2020. But this trip we got up the full length of the route. Yeah. The first pitch was better ice than when I was here with Raff in November 2020. The first pitch is the best pitch of the route, and I can see why many only do the first pitch and leave. The upmost pitch is some fun easy WI3 and worth the walk if you want some adventure. Above the first pitch there is a large tree with a solid cord anchor. Above this anchor, wallow up snow for about 70 - 80 metres to reach "pitch" 2. When we climbed it, it was a short step of about 12 metres of fun WI2-3. Interesting though, once on the top, you can see it is only a thin shell or sheet of ice above the rock wall with lots of running water behind. 

Snow wallow above pitch 1.

Getting close to the second pitch of ice.

Laurie at the base of the second pitch of ice.
He decided he would lead up it. 

The fun part of pitch 2.

Looking at my feet you can see the ice sheet with a gap to the rock wall.
All felt solid?

Always good views to the Opal Range from this route. 

Just above the ice section of pitch 2, to climber's left, is an exposed traverse to a tree with cord and a rappel ring anchor. Laurie skipped this and went up slope to a big tree and brought me up on a belay. Above this section is a bit of steep creek bed, then trees to pitch 3. Just below the ice of pitch 3 is a steepish slope with spaced out trees. When we were here, it was windy and here was a significant wind slab on top of the slope. I stayed close to trees, close the water course, and it was safe. The upper pitch is about 40 metres of easy WI3. I think worth walk. Rapped off a tree anchor on top of pitch 3, then down snow to tree anchor above pitch 2, another short rap, down more snow to the top of pitch 1. One last rappel, then back to the base of the route. Fun and casual multi pitch route, worth the time to top out on pitch 3.  

Wind slab below ice of pitch 3.

Looking up ice of pitch 3. Fun and easy WI3.

Top of ice of pitch 3, looking down to belay.

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly - WI 5, 45m

Great day connecting with my ole bud Jason Wilcox in the North Ghost Saturday January 8. Haven’t climb together for a few years. JW and I use to climb a lot back in the day; including some first ascents on a few waterfall routes; DW40, Green Monster, Slurpee and Better Than Solstice. Jason is still young and strong (unlike me) and set up a top rope for us on GBU and we did a bunch of laps in the cold. Temperature hovered around -22 all day, and it got windy, chilly day out. 

Jason's Ghostmobile is very impressive. 
Also Jason is a well seasoned off-road driver.

Some of the easy ice/water driving we did.

JW is well prepared; after the ice driving, JW
put on some studded chains, they worked great.

At GBU. Ian and Kris joined us. 

JW led up the WI5 pitch like a walk in the park.
Strong like bull he is.

A couple of buds, including Ian Grant, and Kris, joined us at GBU for a few laps. Chris, also a very strong climber, set up a top rope on the left side, and Jason and I top roped the right side. JW did go and rescue a 4Forerunner stuck in the river nearby. Then JW and I top roped the left side, while Ian and Kris did some laps on the right side. JW and I set up a top rope on the middle mixed line, JW did a lap, but I didn't bother since it was beyond my skill and I was freezing. Great day out, fun socializing with boys, great start to climbing 2022. 

Ian and Kris on the right side line. 

WG and SH showed up and did a few laps after we took down our right side rope.

JW and I set up a top rope on the middle mixed line.
JW did a lap, but I didn't bother since it was beyond my skill.

Lots of high winds in the alpine.