Karnak Mountain - South Face, East Ridge, 5.2

Saturday August 26 had a great day out with Columbia valley crusher Steve Tersmette. We climbed the South Slopes and East summit ridge of Karnak Mountain. Karnak is a remote 3411m summit in the Purcell Range, neighbouring Jumbo Mountain. The route was mostly difficult scrambling with the occasional 5 th class step. We brought a rope, rock pro and some glacier gear, but didn’t need to use it. Stunning weather and incredible views to the Purcell Range. Awesome day in the hills.

Low down on the South Slopes of Karnak.

Small glacier below the Karnak/Jumbo col.

Start of the hands on scramble.

Variety of loose scree and steep rock bands.

Big smiles from Steve at the Karnak/Jumbo col.
Summit block of Karnak in the background.

Approaching the summit ridge of Mt. Karnak.
We avoided the steeper ice staying on rock to to
climber's left.

Lots of fun difficult scrambling on the East Ridge towards
the summit. 

Steps away from the summit.

Summit selfie.

OSWB on the highest point of the summit.

A Firm Specimen - 5.9, 375m, 7 pitches

The beautiful wall on Mt. Aeneas.

Sunday August 6 had a great day of alpine rock climbing with Curt. We climbed a cool route “A Firm Specimen” near Pedley Pass on a beautiful outlier of Mount Aeneas. This alpine area is amazing and this face on Aeneas is a distinct feature in the valley. The route is 7 pitches, trad protection with bolted belay stations, except the 5.9 crux pitch has some  bolts were gear is tough to get. This 5.9 pitch is the money pitch, so much fun. Great beta on Gripped. Thanks to Steve for setting up this route. We topped out as a thunderstorm threatened to dump on us and we were looking for quickest descent option, struggled to find the easy way off, but the thunderstorm moved on and we slogged to the summit of Mount Aeneas. Amazing day out.

View to our wall on the hike in.

Curt at the base on the route.

OSWB leading up pitch 1 (5.7)

OSWB leading up pitch 3 (crux 5.9 pitch)

Curt leading pitch 5 (5.6)

View up the final pitch (5.5).

OSWB topping out on the route.

After scrambling off the top of the ridge, we gained the large meadow below the main summit.

On the summit of Mt. Aeneas.

View back to summit of Mt. Aeneas as we headed out.

Nearing the standard Pedley Pass trail.