Chickadee Valley Ski Tour

Impressive steep rock buttress on the north side of Mt. Whymper.

December 12 met up with my ole buddy John for a ski ascent. I was super keen to ascend Boom Mountain. Boom is a relatively short and straight forward ascent, so I thought. Super cold morning, at least it felt that way, when we left the parking lot it was -22C. I have never skied or hiked in Chickadee Valley before, so I was curious about this popular ski location. Since we left the parking lot just before 8am, it was quiet, but on our return, the parking lot was over flowing with parked cars. 

Shady and cold in Chickadee Valley.
Great views though.

Chic Scott's ski guide book has very basic beta on the ascent of Boom Mountain, but there are several easy to find on line sources. Generally, most parties will ski up the last avalanche slope (most westernly slope) to gain the gullies that break through the upper rock bands which guard the large flat summit plateau of Boom. The avalanche slope and the gullies are very steep, and don't look too inviting. John and I scoped these lines, but we agreed that the western end of Boom Mountain, just above a col, seemed to be the same angle as the regular route, and maybe a better option? Turned out we had to break a trail though steep trees and we had very slow progress in the soft snow was we plodded towards this col.

Gaining height and finally the tree begin to thin.
West end of Boom Mountain above.

Nearing the col west of Boom Mountain.

After a few hours of trail breaking, we eventually reached the high col west of Boom Mountain. We picked a line up the west side of Boom Mountain. We started with some steep skinning. Soon the snow had a very hard sun crust. Maybe 200 metres of skinning up, the snow became rock hard and too hard to skin up. Since we didn't bring ski or boot crampons, or an ice ace; we chose to bail. We stopped for a quick lunch at the col, great views to Mt. Quadra. On our descent, we got in one short section of excellent powder skiing just below the col. Below this slope, we found a ski track descending an avalanche slope. We followed this down to valley flats and quickly found our up track. No summit, but some great exercise and enjoyed a beer with John in the parking lot before heading home. Great day out. 

At col, looking straight up the west end of Boom Mountain.
I wanted to ski/climb up this slope to gain the upper summit ridge.

John starting up the lower slope of the west end of Boom Mtn.
Very soon the snow got rock hard and steep.

The beautiful Mount Quadra from the col.
I have wanted to climb the north face of Quadra for decades.
Hopefully one day.

The small patch of great skiing we had.

On descent from the col we found tracks dropping in this avalanche gully.

The impressive north side of Mt. Whymper.
There were at least two parties skinning up the big slope on the right.
And old ski tracks coming down from the cool small snow col just right of centre.

Cold day, mostly in the shade all day.
Temperature about -20C all day.

 

The Joker - WI3, 50m

Beautiful morning colours on the drive in.

Had a great day of early season ice climbing with Laurie at the end of November. I thought it was interesting, this year, the weather warmed up again in early November, and Laurie and I did a day of cragging/rock climbing at the Porcupine Creek crag in the first week of November and a few weeks later, some ice climbing. We headed to "The Joker" in the South Ghost. This route is typically a moderate WI3 and only one pitch, and in the dry conditions we had, super easy to approach. A nice easy breezy to start the ice season. 

View to route on the approach.

Nice and dry conditions for the approach.

View to the route, "Candle Stick Maker", not quite formed this day.
I did this route with Jason Wilcox about 10 years ago.

I have only been up this drainage once before, in 2010, I think late January, Jason, Janice and I climbed Hidden Dragon and Candle Stick Maker. On this day, we had dry conditions and really nice ice quality on The Joker. The hike was snow free and only a minor bit of ice on the trail. We easily gained elevation and enjoyed the warm late Fall weather. Got a great view over to Hidden Dragon and CSM  as we gained height, HD was climbable, CSM, not so much. 

Nearing base of route on approach.

View up the route from the base.

Once at the base of The Joker we geared up and I launched up the route. Well putting on my crampons, my beloved Scarpa Summits boots were showing their age. I loved my Summits, bought them in 2007. On their first trip, I summitted Mt. Brazeau; these boot have been up hundreds of summits and hundreds of ice routes. As I attached the crampon, the base of the sole on the toe came apart. I thought I would still do the lead and see how it went. Well of course, half way up, the crampon failed. I had to put in an ice screw, hang for a bit, reattached the crampon, and decided to continue climbing. Made it to the top without any more failures. Brought up Laurie and rapped down on the bolts at the top of the route. Fun day of ice, very sad about my Summit boots. I guess after 13 years, with about 5 years of very hard use, I cannot complain. 

Great day out in the Ghost. Love the Ghost, don't get here as much as I would like to. This was Laurie's first time ever in the area, I think it was cool he got to climb ice on his first trip. 

View down route as I lead up.
This is after my crampon fell off by boot, 
since my boot sole was falling off.

LK rapping off route. 

Good driving conditions in the South Ghost on this day.
Awesome day out.