Great day out with Laurie on a Bow Valley classic moderate climb, Mothers Day. Friday May 22 was hot and sunny, and as we found out later, ticky. The simple approach got a bit messed up for us, I am blaming the flood of 2013. The standard description (Banff Rock by Chris Perry, tabvar.org) describe heading up the gravel washout for 100 metres, then go right. Well about 100 metres from the road there is a big green flagging on a tree, then a trail that heads perpendicular right into the bush; well this isn't the proper trail. A re-read of the descriptions states, "Follow the dry creek bed up for about 100 m and then cross over to a well-defined trail (cairn) on its right-hand (east) side."
Well there is no cairn, and the trail use to follow the right side of the creek/wash out, but after heading straight up the drainage, in about another 200 metres, a trail parallels the creek, on the right bank, up to the base of the route; what a waste of time for us.
 |
| OSWB heading up 5.7 pitch |
Good thing we solo'ed the first 5.4 pitch to make up time. I led up the second alternate pitch, 5.7. I would agree with the grade and fairly sustained at 5.7, most of the moves require a bit of power and big, high steps, but otherwise pretty easy. Lots of great opportunity of gear placement. I led the second 5.6 pitch. Three bolts on the length of the pitch, none shown on the topo; also looks like the bolted station was moved, just a few metres to the left of the location shown on the topo. Interesting and fun face climbing mostly. Laurie led the next 5.4 pitch, his first real trad lead, so his gear placement took some time, got to watch a mountain goat across the big gully. Laurie did a great job of placing the rock pro.
 |
| Laurie on pitch four |
I led the next two pitches, both at 5.5, but super fun. Lots of exposure made the leads more exciting; especially pitch five, the rising traverse is super exposed for a 5.5 route. Lots of opportunities for gear placement, super clean route, very little rock litter on the lower pitches.
Laurie blasted up pitch seven, fun 5.4. I enjoyed the last pitch a lot, rated at 5.5, but this pitch is the dirtiest and loosest; not usually fun, but being exposed and loose made this pitch more committing than the first two, IMHO. Clearing the roof near the top of the pitch is the crux in my opinion. Only a 5.5 to 5.6 move, but super exposed and requires full commitment to get over this section. Great fun.
 |
| Top of route |
 |
| Beautiful spring day, view to Mt. Rundle |
I enjoyed the walk off trail, cool to hike over Cascade Falls, have done the winter descent of the section between Rogan's Gully and Cascade Falls before, but was interesting to see all this terrain in the summer. Very large trail up there. Great day out, had a blast on this classic moderate route.
