The Water Hole - WI3, 45m and Irish Mist - WI3, 65m

View up The Water Hole.
Fun thin left side and the main right side flow.

Just east of Canmore, about 15 km east, the Trans Canada Highway takes a big curve between Lac Des Arcs and Mt. McGillivary.  On the outlier of Mt. McGillivary is long wall with some older rock routes (McGillivary Slabs), a couple of new rock routes and a couple of cool moderate ice climbs; “The Water Hole” and “Irish Mist”. These ice routes were first climbed way back in the 1970’s, and, interesting to me; during my peak of ice climbing (1995 to 2000), these routes were rare to form, often not really forming in some seasons. But lately, since maybe 2010, they both seem to form up every season?  Both routes are WI3, and back in the 1990’s, didn’t seem to be worth my time, so I have never climbed them.  Not being a tough ice climber anymore, it was time to give them a visit.

Old School at the base of The Water Hole.
(Photo by Laurie)

Laurie and I headed to these fine little routes on January 24 for his second ever time ice climbing. Warm day, high near +6 or so, but both these routes are in the shade all day. We parked on the westbound side of the Trans Canada and there was one car parked with “Water Hole” and “Irish Mist” written in grime on the back trunk, I thought, two routes, no problem. We easily crossed the highway and followed the very ice packed trail to the base of Irish Mist.

The other party was a group of two, a guide (Jay Mills) and his client from Mexico, they had setup a top rope on the bottom half of Irish Mist, and then planned to do some rock/mixed climbing near the top of the route; Jay indicated that they would be awhile, but The Water Hole was clear. I was glad this group was only two, we happily headed to the other route.

Laurie at the base of The Water Hole.

The Water Hole was cool, two separate lines and about 50 metres high. I led the right side first, casual WI3, or even WI2+, fun climb with good ice quality, topped out and found a bolted station far to climbers right. Brought up Laurie and we did a double rope rappel back to the base of the route. Next, I led the left side line, super fun, more challenging, definitely a solid WI3, good fun. Near the top out, there a tree to the left will lots of new cord. A little awkward to reach the tree, but nothing too bad. 

OSWB leading up the right side of The Water Hole.
(My left line is visible on the left)

Higher up on The Water Hole.

LK nearing the belay on the top of right side of The Water Hole.

Brought up Laurie, then rap back to the base.  We pack up and were wondering about ours on Irish Mist, when Jay and client started up the hill towards, perfect time. 

LK rapping off the right side top bolted station.

LK rapping off the tree on the left side.

OSWB rapping on the left side of The Water Hole.
(photo by Laurie)

Short hike back to Irish Mist and we set up for the climb.  A couple of small pillars formed off some fairly tall overhangs, but these short pillars were so picked and stepped out, they were a ladder.  Fun easy WI3, or even WI2+, to a bolted station, a full 55 metres. Brought up Laurie, then rap back to the base. Good fun. 

OSWB leading up Irish Mist.
(photo by Lauire)

Looking down from about half way up Irish Mist.

OSWB leading the top of Irish Mist.
(photo by Laurie)

Great to check out these fun little routes and enjoy some warm weather in January.

Nice looking buttress on the South East end of Grotto Mtn.
Nice evening light.

Ski tour to Fryatt Hut (Sydney Vallance Hut)

A last minute sort of trip, January 11 to 13 I joined up with John L. and Colin B. for a ski trip to the cozy Fryatt Hut, or officially called, the Sydney Vallance Hut. The forecast called for very cold weather starting Sunday, highs near -30 and lows, well colder. We drove up Friday night and slept in Colin’s cool van in the Athabasca parking lot, not too cold, about -20. Drove to the Athabasca river crossing on Saturday (Jan. 11) morning, close to the Kerkeslin Campground, about 50 km south of the Jasper townsite.

Colin's cool van Saturday morning at the Athabasca parking lot. 

Plenty of room for three big guys. 

John had been to the hut several times in the summer and knew where to cross the hopefully frozen Athabasca River. Crossing on the frozen river saves about 7km off the regular summer hike.  From the river crossing, it is about 16km to the hut.  We found a well packed trail all the way to the hut.  A group of 5 was registered to be at the hut. Just before the hut, there is a steep headwall, thankfully the trail was well packed and mostly easy travel.  There is about 750 metres of elevation gain to the hut. After the river crossing, it is flat for much of the trip, then a short gradually up hill to an open valley that ends in the headwall.

John checking out the river crossing, yeah, it looks good.

View up stream, open water is visible.

John and Colin enjoying the ski in.

Snowy trees as we gain elevation.

Open valley above the first campground and first section of real elevation gain.

The headwall is at the end of the valley, took longer than we thought to reach it.

View back towards the highway from this open valley.

We arrived at the hut in 6 hours. The hut was very busy with the 5 other people, felt like we could barely fit, the other group had their stuff spread out everywhere.  Would hate to be at this hut with a full house of 12 people. Sunday morning the other group of 5 dudes left and we had the hut to ourselves.  In the afternoon, John and I did a 3 hour tour above the hut, explored the ice cave and got some turns and some exercise, then back to warm hut. 

The cute little hut. 

Hut interior pano shot.  Great for 3 people.

John just inside the ice cave.

View inside the cave, seemed to continue for a ways, but crampons were a must.

View from the cave.

John and I did a few laps in these trees, okay skiing, 

but anything else was very steep open alpine and a bit scary.

View in the alpine, not the best visibility.

South East end of the South East Ridge of Mt. Belanger.

Monday morning (Jan. 12) was cold, about -38? (couldn't really get an accurate reading on the thermometer), so we made quick time on our ski to avoid lingering in the cold, 4 hours out to the van.  Great weekend with some young guns. 

-38 ish

Great view to Mt. Brussels. 

Lets ski.

Skiing across the small lake below the headwall.

View back across to the headwall.

View south (Sunwapta Peak on the far horizon).