Beowulf - WI4, 667 m (6 pitches) + GBU - WI5, 35m

Great day out in the Ghost with Jason and Pierre. We headed to Beowulf for our first climb of the day. Last time I climbed with Pierre was with Jason and Janice, I think about 9 years ago? Typical drive in, 3 or 4 river crossing in Jason's cool jacked up Landcruiser. No problem for his Ghostmobile. 

First pitch of Beowulf, second upper tier was super wet.
Even had a high volume of water flowing over the left hand side of the second tier.

JW's cool Ghostmobile.  

Pierre was keen to solo the full route, 
he is heading up pitch 1 just before JW and I.
We were happy to rope up for pitch 1 and the final pitches. 

Pierre was keen to solo the full route, and use my ropes to rap ;-). JW and I were keen to rope up for the first pitch, and the last pitch. The easy WI2 steps between pitch 1 and the bottom of the top pitches, we were all happy to solo. The upper two pitches were solid WI4 and much dryer ice since it is on a sidewall, not in the main canyon. About 80 metres of climbing, with the top exit pitch presenting 4+ lines, which of course JW lead up, easy breezy for him. 

Easy fun ice steps mid climb.

Just below JW's feet is a very deep water pool, 
had to tread carefully. 

Second last pitch, where the final two pitches leave the canyon.

Super fun climb up. Was remembering the last time I was here, on top of Beowulf; 15 years ago. December 2007 Jason and I climbed Beowulf, up Devil's Punchbowl and continued up to the summit to Devil's Head via the West Ridge and gully. 

Glimpse view to Devil's Head summit from near the top of the route. 

Young guns. 

Quick descent and back to JW's Landcruiser. JW was keen to climb more, so we headed to GBU for a quick lap. JW easier climbed up the WI5 right hand side, then Pierre and I did a top rope lap. My TR was by headlamp. JW did a TR to clean the anchor, then a few beers before the drive home. Great day out. 

JW heading up GBU just before dark.

GR279343 “Spoon Needle (Aiguille de la Cuiller)” - South Ridge

Many of us mountain enthusiasts have looked at the cool sharp ridge of this interesting feature heading north on Highway 40 from the Kananaskis Valley. The first ascent known to me was by the venerable Sonny Bou. His trip report from 2004 is available here. Over the years, as much of Kananaskis, this hike/scramble was become very popular with frequent ascents in all seasons. Had a great day out on November 19 with Curt and Taylor heading out for a snow shoe approach and hike up Spoon Needle. 

Photo from https://peakery.com/spoon-needle-alberta/ 
View to Spoon Needle from Highway 40.

Approximate route.

Near Fortress Ski Resort area, view down the road we walked up.

Cool view to the Fortress.

Easy bushwach from road to tree line.

Great views to the south.

Views

Getting near tree line. 

Curt and Taylor.

OSWB, photo by Curt. 

South Ridge looks pretty easy from here.

Hiking up to the final rock section.

Time to leave the snow shoes.

Great views,

Taylor running for the top.

Curt enjoying the views.

Signing the register.

Like all of us, the summit register is showing its age. Our summit visit was super windy and it was very difficult to keep the pages from blowing away. We signed the register and carefully packed it back in the tune. Was too windy to read through it. A few photos from Sonny's trip and Vern/Steven's trip; you can really see the staples rusting and the paper quality deteriorating. 

From Sonny's Sept. 2004 trip.

From Steven's Feb. 2014 trip.

From Vern's Feb. 2014 trip.

Our summit register entry.

Heading home.
Photo by Curt.

Yonge Street - 5.8, 390m, 14 pitches

Angry bull elk. 

Did the route Yonge Street (5.8, 390m, 14 pitches) on Mt. Rundle on Monday September 26 with a buddy of mine, Brad W. Brad is a veteran rock climber and has set routes with many of the local masters. Brad and I had limited time and he suggested we do the route up and down in 2 hours. I wasn’t sure if that was realistic, but Brad suggested linking pitches and maybe some simul climbing. I was keen to try it out. Crux of the day was getting out of the car. We parked in the described spot, hopped out and were immediately confronted with an angry bull elk. He eventually left, but we were worried he would attack our vehicle. 

Area beta from Gripped.com

Topo map from Gripped.com

It was only 15 minutes to the base of the route. In the end, Brad linked pitches 1-4 (did Tent Peg variation; 3 pitches to base of P5). I linked pitches 5-7 then 8 & 9. Brad did pitch 10-11 and most of 12 on belay, then the rope (60m) was fully out. We then simul climbed. Brad topped and brought me up. About 1 hour 20 minutes up. Rapped the route, but pitches 5-7 you can walk down. Just over 2 hours up and down the route. This route has some really nice sections, but lots of easy terrain in between these good sections. I would guess this route is maybe 50% good rock, 25% below 5th class rock and 25% scree and dirt? Not an all star route, but we had an awesome day out.  

Brad about half way up pitch 2.

"pitches 5 - 7" if you pick the easiest line, 
you can walk up all 3 pitches.  

Great views.

View down pitch 11.

First rap.

Mt. Peechee

Tunnel Mtn. 

Mt. Inglismaldie (l), Mt. Girouard (c) & Mt. Peechee (r).

The 4th Wave - 5.8, 145m (4 - 6 pitches)

From Wasootch Creek parking area.
Wasootch Tower is obvious,
 the wall across the drainage is where The 4th Wave is located.

From our June 2022 ascent of Wasootch Tower, view over to The 4th Wave wall.
The deluxe approach trail is visible.

Ian's Instagram post.

Back in June of this year, 2022, Laurie and I had a great late spring ascent of Wasootch Tower. On the hike in, and while climbing the tower, we wondered if the wall across the drainage would have potential for some new routes, well it guess it does. Ian Greant posted on Instagram in September that Patrick and Chelsea Lindsay set this new route. Once I saw Ian's post, we had to check it out. 

In the approach drainage below Wasootch Tower.
Laurie is stoked.

The route builders did an incredible job building the approach trail below the wall.
Thank you for the great work. 

Deluxe!

Laurie and I headed out to try this route on Friday September 16. Our last trip out was Wasootch Tower, so this approach seemed very familiar. Once up below the wall with The 4th Wave, I was immediately impressed with the approach trail. A lot of effort and hard work into the construction of this trail. We found the base of the route and geared up. I was keen to go and climbed the first pitch. Ian's post indicated grade, length of route, number of pitches and gear required. I tried to remember the gear for each pitch and any interesting sections for this post. Spoiler alert, the crux's are probably more than 5.8.

Looking up pitch 1.
The route goes right at the end of the small roof.

Another view to the roof.

A few moves up pitch 1, still below the roof, view to belay.

Above the small roof, climbing grade 5.7.

At top of pitch 1 looking down to Laurie on second.

Pitch 1 was about 28m in length with 12 bolts; 5.7. The lower section was easy 5.5 to near the lower roof, then 5.7 for a good distance. Below the first anchor, the terrain gets easier again with some loose dirt pebbles on ledges. I used the first station that I encountered, this station included rap rings. 

Laurie about half way up pitch 2.
Mostly solid 5.8. 

Laurie at belay station at top of pitch 2.

Looking up to Laurie at top of pitch 2.
This section was very solid 5.8.
Most climbers would likely say this was 5.9 moves.

Pitch 2 was about 30m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. Once at the roof, moves to get above the roof were solid 5.8. Below the second station, the climbing was very sustained and felt more like 5.9 moves. Laurie used the first station he reached, it included rap rings. I started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, then got to a two bolt station. We eventually climbed the full route in 4 pitches, not the described 6. I am assume the two bolt station about 12 metres from where we set belay station 2 was meant to be a short pitch? Or I shouldn't have used the anchor with rings? I didn't clip either of the two bolts and kept climbing.

OSWB at top of pitch 2.
Photo by Laurie.

Looking up from the top of our pitch 2 belay station.
(station with rappel rings)

2 bolt station about 12 metres above the station we used.

Looking down pitch 3, just above crux.
Crux section 5.8 to 5.9 moves.

Looking ahead to the station I used for the top of pitch 3.
Bolts with rappel rings.

Views to the north.

Pitch 3 was about 36m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. As I mentioned, started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, didn't clip either of the two bolts at anchor and kept climbing. A bolt or two above the 2 bolt station, this pitch gets serious, about 20 metres of fun hard 5.9 climbing. Well protected with bolts, at easy to reach locations, but the climbing is hard with small holds, basically all foot smears, bring your grippy shoes. 10 bolts above the two bolt anchor to rappel ring anchor.

The boys on top of pitch 3.
The fabulous Wasootch Tower behind.
Photo by Laurie.

Weather was on and off, but often lots of blue sky.

Looking up pitch 4.
I used this station that included rap rings.
Laurie said there was another two bolt station without rap rings,
just above the second bolt in this photo.

Moving up pitch 4, lots of fun 5.7 moves.

Another two bolt station with rappel rings.
This station was 7 bolts above the ringless station above my ringed station.
We used this station for our second rap on the way down.

Pitch 4 was about 46m in length with 16 bolts(?); 5.7. Okay, Laurie should have stopped at one of these lower stations, especially since he ran out of draws; he thought he was close and wanted to finish it. Great pitch, mostly fun 5.7, maybe some 5.8 moves, but lots of cruisey fun. Laurie did get rope drag, so yeah, recommend breaking up this pitch into two. From where I belayed pitch 4, there were two anchors between our belays, so good options for splitting this pitch into 2. Lacking a topo, we weren't sure of the length of the pitches, but doing the route in 4 pitches wasn't too bad. 

Wasootch Creek below.
Spent a lot of time in that creek cragging over the decades.

Hiked up the short distance to the very top of the trees above the wall.

Love this little tower.

Laurie on the first rappel.

On the second last rappel. 

Last look, great day out.