From Wasootch Creek parking area. Wasootch Tower is obvious, the wall across the drainage is where The 4th Wave is located. |
From our June 2022 ascent of Wasootch Tower, view over to The 4th Wave wall. The deluxe approach trail is visible. |
Ian's Instagram post. |
Back in June of this year, 2022, Laurie and I had a great late spring ascent of Wasootch Tower. On the hike in, and while climbing the tower, we wondered if the wall across the drainage would have potential for some new routes, well it guess it does. Ian Greant posted on Instagram in September that Patrick and Chelsea Lindsay set this new route. Once I saw Ian's post, we had to check it out.
The route builders did an incredible job building the approach trail below the wall. Thank you for the great work. |
Deluxe! |
Laurie and I headed out to try this route on Friday September 16. Our last trip out was Wasootch Tower, so this approach seemed very familiar. Once up below the wall with The 4th Wave, I was immediately impressed with the approach trail. A lot of effort and hard work into the construction of this trail. We found the base of the route and geared up. I was keen to go and climbed the first pitch. Ian's post indicated grade, length of route, number of pitches and gear required. I tried to remember the gear for each pitch and any interesting sections for this post. Spoiler alert, the crux's are probably more than 5.8.
Pitch 1 was about 28m in length with 12 bolts; 5.7. The lower section was easy 5.5 to near the lower roof, then 5.7 for a good distance. Below the first anchor, the terrain gets easier again with some loose dirt pebbles on ledges. I used the first station that I encountered, this station included rap rings.
Laurie about half way up pitch 2. Mostly solid 5.8. |
Laurie at belay station at top of pitch 2. |
Looking up to Laurie at top of pitch 2. This section was very solid 5.8. Most climbers would likely say this was 5.9 moves. |
Pitch 2 was about 30m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. Once at the roof, moves to get above the roof were solid 5.8. Below the second station, the climbing was very sustained and felt more like 5.9 moves. Laurie used the first station he reached, it included rap rings. I started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, then got to a two bolt station. We eventually climbed the full route in 4 pitches, not the described 6. I am assume the two bolt station about 12 metres from where we set belay station 2 was meant to be a short pitch? Or I shouldn't have used the anchor with rings? I didn't clip either of the two bolts and kept climbing.
OSWB at top of pitch 2. Photo by Laurie. |
Looking up from the top of our pitch 2 belay station. (station with rappel rings) |
2 bolt station about 12 metres above the station we used. |
Looking ahead to the station I used for the top of pitch 3. Bolts with rappel rings. |
Views to the north. |
Pitch 3 was about 36m in length with 10 bolts; 5.8+. As I mentioned, started up pitch 3, clipped one bolt, easy climbing (5.4-5.5), kept climbing, didn't clip either of the two bolts at anchor and kept climbing. A bolt or two above the 2 bolt station, this pitch gets serious, about 20 metres of fun hard 5.9 climbing. Well protected with bolts, at easy to reach locations, but the climbing is hard with small holds, basically all foot smears, bring your grippy shoes. 10 bolts above the two bolt anchor to rappel ring anchor.
The boys on top of pitch 3. The fabulous Wasootch Tower behind. Photo by Laurie. |
Weather was on and off, but often lots of blue sky. |
Looking up pitch 4. I used this station that included rap rings. Laurie said there was another two bolt station without rap rings, just above the second bolt in this photo. |
Wasootch Creek below. Spent a lot of time in that creek cragging over the decades. |
Hiked up the short distance to the very top of the trees above the wall. |
Laurie on the first rappel. |
On the second last rappel. |
Last look, great day out. |
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