Tuesday, March 30, 2021

Mt. Richardson attempt

The historic Half Way hut near Hidden Lake.

The famous mountain trio of Mt. Richardson (l), Pika Peak (c) and Ptarmigan Peak (r).

Cold, high winds and generally blustery day out with John. We are not having great success with our Skoki trips this winter. John was keen to summit Mt. Richardson. Mt. Richardson is one of my earliest summits, 24 summit ever, back on Thanksgiving weekend in 1993. The weather forecast was bleak, but this was the only day I had available, we went for it. 

In the trees on the way to Hidden Lake. 
South Ridge of Mt. Richardson above.

Nearing Hidden Lake

Above Hidden Lake, we are headed towards the low point, right of the pointy point.

Old guy breaking trail towards our ridge point.
Photo by John.

Are we there yet?
Photo by John.

We had a pleasant ski to Hidden Lake and into the alpine. After a bit of route finding, we were making great progress and had spotted an access point to gain the South Ridge of Mt. Richardson. We eventually gained the ridge at a low point, but wind was insane and it was on and off whiteout conditions. We bailed.

Got in some great turns on the way back to the lake.

Back at Hidden Lake.
Photo by John.

We got in some great turns above the lake and enjoyed the ski back to the car. Lots of fun, but not so much sun. 

Thursday, March 25, 2021

Beach Front Buttress - sport climbing 5.10a

Beach Front Buttress crag.

Great day out to enjoy the warm and dry weather; bring on spring. Laurie and I headed out to Canyon Creek, near Moose Mountain, to explore the variety of crags that have recently been established along a oil and gas access road. This road is the old road that use to allow more direct access to the famous "Bragg Creek Ice Caves". These caves have a long and storied history with many generations of Calgarians heading out to enjoy the outdoors. Maybe 10 or 15 years ago, Alberta Parks restricted public access to the road and only allow authorized resource company vehicles. Regardless, the road is in perfect condition and a bike ride makes short work of the approach.

We only visited the first crag, closest to the parking area. We both did a pile of warm up routes, then we both did a couple of 10.a's. Great start to the sport climbing season. Bring on summer! 

Right side of crag, most right, Above the Beach, 5.10a

Laurie about to launch up Slab-a-Lilaceous 5.10a

Kevin (OSWB) on top of Slab-a-Lilaceous 5.10a
Photo by Laurie

LK near upper crux on Corner Jam, 5.9

Kevin (OSWB) on top of Corner Jam, 5.9
Photo by Laurie

Gearing up for Above the Beach, 5.10a

Laurie's view down Above the Beach.

Kevin (OSWB) on top of crux of Above the Beach 5.10a
Photo by Laurie

OSWB gunning for the top of Above the Beach 5.10a
Photo by Laurie

Saturday, March 20, 2021

King Creek - WI3, 50m


March 5 got for a fun day of ice cragging with Laurie. The forecast was for really warm temperatures later in the day, so we parked at King Creek as the sun came up. Laurie is still new to ice climbing, and had never been to King Creek before; so I had to show him this classic ice venue. Laurie also got to do his first ice lead ever. Good times. I have also did my first ice lead in King Creek, I think in December of 1994? 

Bolts chopped on the rock route "King Rat" 5.10b

Laurie scoping out his lead on the main ice flow.

At King Creek there are three ice climbing spots; the main flow, the largest and highest of the three, about 50m tall mostly WI2, the cave area, typically a thin ice line into a cool cave. There is a bolted anchor in the cave. Left of the cave is short, but steep wall of ice, usually in good shape, just not tall, maybe 10 metres tall. The best climbing is on the "Scottish Gully", this gully is the furthest upstream, just beyond the main climbing area, passed a tight gap in the canyon. Laurie did a great lead up the main ice flow. He used the bolts on the top and brought me up; we both rappelled off the bolts. 

Laurie's first ice lead ever.

Looking good.

Rapping down the main ice flow.


Another group of two climbing on the main ice flow
as we left the canyon.

The "Scottish Gully"

Laurie rapping the gully.

After climbing on the main flow, we headed to the Scottish Gully. I lead up this fun 27m ish WI3 route. This the best ice climbing in King Creek, a really fun easy route. I brought up Laurie we rappelled off the route. Next we headed to the cave, I lead up this route, short, maybe 15 metres, brought up Laurie, then rapped down. Since the weather was forecast to get very warm, we left the canyon. Initially we had hope the warm weather would let us try to climb the rock sport route, King Rat, 5.10b,but some a hole chopped the bolts on the route. Fun day out, likely my last ice of the season. 


Inside the cave.

Rapping out of the cave.


"Mt. Barnham" from the canyon.

"The Blade"


Cool rock colours near the parking lot.

Big snow sluffs in the canyon from the hot later winter sun.