King Creek - WI3, 50m

March 5 got for a fun day of ice cragging with Laurie. The forecast was for really warm temperatures later in the day, so we parked at King Creek as the sun came up. Laurie is still new to ice climbing, and had never been to King Creek before; so I had to show him this classic ice venue. Laurie also got to do his first ice lead ever. Good times. I have also did my first ice lead in King Creek, I think in December of 1994? 

Bolts chopped on the rock route "King Rat" 5.10b

Laurie scoping out his lead on the main ice flow.

At King Creek there are three ice climbing spots; the main flow, the largest and highest of the three, about 50m tall mostly WI2, the cave area, typically a thin ice line into a cool cave. There is a bolted anchor in the cave. Left of the cave is short, but steep wall of ice, usually in good shape, just not tall, maybe 10 metres tall. The best climbing is on the "Scottish Gully", this gully is the furthest upstream, just beyond the main climbing area, passed a tight gap in the canyon. Laurie did a great lead up the main ice flow. He used the bolts on the top and brought me up; we both rappelled off the bolts. 

Laurie's first ice lead ever.

Looking good.

Rapping down the main ice flow.

Another group of two climbing on the main ice flow
as we left the canyon.

The "Scottish Gully"

Laurie rapping the gully.

After climbing on the main flow, we headed to the Scottish Gully. I lead up this fun 27m ish WI3 route. This the best ice climbing in King Creek, a really fun easy route. I brought up Laurie we rappelled off the route. Next we headed to the cave, I lead up this route, short, maybe 15 metres, brought up Laurie, then rapped down. Since the weather was forecast to get very warm, we left the canyon. Initially we had hope the warm weather would let us try to climb the rock sport route, King Rat, 5.10b,but some a hole chopped the bolts on the route. Fun day out, likely my last ice of the season. 

Inside the cave.

Rapping out of the cave.

"Mt. Barnham" from the canyon.

"The Blade"

Cool rock colours near the parking lot.

Big snow sluffs in the canyon from the hot later winter sun.