Yes, back at this route again. Considering I have never been to this route before 2020, it is even surprising to me that I have now been to this route 3 times since February 2020. But this trip we got up the full length of the route. Yeah. The first pitch was better ice than when I was here with Raff in November 2020. The first pitch is the best pitch of the route, and I can see why many only do the first pitch and leave. The upmost pitch is some fun easy WI3 and worth the walk if you want some adventure. Above the first pitch there is a large tree with a solid cord anchor. Above this anchor, wallow up snow for about 70 - 80 metres to reach "pitch" 2. When we climbed it, it was a short step of about 12 metres of fun WI2-3. Interesting though, once on the top, you can see it is only a thin shell or sheet of ice above the rock wall with lots of running water behind.
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Snow wallow above pitch 1. |
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Getting close to the second pitch of ice. |
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Laurie at the base of the second pitch of ice. He decided he would lead up it. |
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The fun part of pitch 2. |
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Looking at my feet you can see the ice sheet with a gap to the rock wall. All felt solid? |
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Always good views to the Opal Range from this route. |
Just above the ice section of pitch 2, to climber's left, is an exposed traverse to a tree with cord and a rappel ring anchor. Laurie skipped this and went up slope to a big tree and brought me up on a belay. Above this section is a bit of steep creek bed, then trees to pitch 3. Just below the ice of pitch 3 is a steepish slope with spaced out trees. When we were here, it was windy and here was a significant wind slab on top of the slope. I stayed close to trees, close the water course, and it was safe. The upper pitch is about 40 metres of easy WI3. I think worth walk. Rapped off a tree anchor on top of pitch 3, then down snow to tree anchor above pitch 2, another short rap, down more snow to the top of pitch 1. One last rappel, then back to the base of the route. Fun and casual multi pitch route, worth the time to top out on pitch 3. |
Wind slab below ice of pitch 3. |
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Looking up ice of pitch 3. Fun and easy WI3. |
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Top of ice of pitch 3, looking down to belay. |
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