Gray Waves, this is
a route I wanted to climb about 20 years ago (boy I am getting old ;-). Back in
the day, this route had no fixed pro, no bolts, but the occasional loose rusty
pin. Before the big retro bolt of the Kid Goat crag, I was up the classic route
Keehaul Wall (5.6, 155m) several times and would often look over to the steep,
slabby, blank wall of Gray Waves and wonder how run out was it?
I basically stopped
my focus on rock climbing in 1999, after getting very comfortable on tough
5.8/5.9 alpine trad leads. 1999 was the same year Kid Goat (and several other
older crags) had major retro bolt updates. The first ascent of Gray Waves was
by John Martin and L. Howard in 1980.
In 1998, Joe Josephson and K. Snyder slightly rerouted and retro bolted
the first pitch, in 1999, M. Piche and S. Holeczi added bolts to the rest of
the route.
My impression in
the mid 1990’s was that this route was fun, clean (no loose holds/clean
ledges), but seriously run out with very little chance for good protection, and
no fixed stations. My focus, at the time, was on big mountain alpine trad rock routes and I never climbed
Gray Waves, but did think of it often…
Laurie and I have
been doing a ton of indoor climbing and trying our best to get outdoors a bunch this year. My wish list for us included Gray Waves, and on June 24, we had a blast on this classic route.
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| Laurie led pitch 1 (20m, 5.8), his pic looking down to me. |
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| I led pitch 2 (30m, 5.8+?). |
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| Just below crux of route. |
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| LK with Yam |
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| OSWB belaying |
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| Best 5.5 slab traverse in the Rockies IMHO |
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