Sharknado - 5.9, 100m (4 pitches)

“Sharknado” is a recent, bolted, 4 pitch route, on an older crag. Whiteman’s Crag was mostly developed in the 1980’s and mostly as a trad crag.  The super quick access, great southern sun exposure and compact rock with several fun roofs make this a great spot.  Apparently this crag is not as popular as it once was, but maybe a few new lines will bring back interest to this cool crag. The crag is above the now busy road above the dam above Canmore between EEOR and Ha Ling Peak, maybe that is why the crag is less popular?  I didn’t mind the traffic.

Looking up pitch one from bottom of route.

I got the beta on this route last year and had hoped to combine it with “Hot Fuzz”, also a recent bolted 2 pitch 5.8 route, but Laurie and I only had a short afternoon window to climb so we only got to enjoy “Sharknado”. Established by Brandon Pullan and Gaby James in September 2014, this four pitch routes weaves in between two old trad routes and picks the best rock.  Well spaces bolts and fun positions on the cruxes make this a super fun route; totally recommended.

http://gripped.com/routes/the-route-hot-fuzz-and-sharknado-on-kanga-south/

I led the two bottom pitches. Pitch one is 5.8 30 metres. Start up a broken ramp to thin face holds and right facing corner. Step left out of corner at the top, avoid loose rock up and right, eight bolts. Pitch two is 5.9 and only 15 metres, but I had to think about the 5.9 roof mantle seriously, tricky and small holds to clear this roof, but well protected by bolts; a total of 6 bolts on this pitch.

Start of the corner on pitch one, about half way up.

About half way up pitch two, just below the crux roof moves, there were a few 5.9 move to get here, then some big moves on very small hands and feet to clear the roof, good thing it is well bolted.

Pitch three, Laurie’s lead, is 5.8 35 metres. Head up a cool arête and stemmed up the gully. Cross left on to the wall and excellent grey stone. Straight up to a ledge. Eight bolts (extend the second and third bolts).

Laurie about half way up pitch 3. This section was fun, tough 5.8, small face holds.

I led the last pitch, super fun, cool side pulls for most hands, is 5.7 about 20 metres and 6 bolts. Descent is rap from each anchor to the next. We used a 70 single rope and had lots of spare rope; a 60 metre rope would just make the second rap with rope stretch, be very careful if rappelling with a 60 metre rope. Great day out, close to Canmore and super easy approach. We will be back for Hot Fuzz and maybe some of the trad routes.

Looking up last pitch.

On rap from top anchor.