Long, sustained and challenging rock route, at least for Laurie
and I. We enjoyed the variety and interesting climbing on this recent route on
the South West Face of Mt. Cory. This
new route is adjacent to the famous climb Cory Crack and has a relatively short
approach (about one hour) through pleasant forest and meadows. Long route, 9
pitches, most at 50 or 55 metres in length, with a lot variety of climbing. Great views north to Castle and the Lake
Louise peaks. First ascent by the “Banff
Climbers Club” in 2014. Hoka Hey means
“let’s go” in the Lakȟóta Sioux language. It was often combined with the phrase
“it’s a good day to die” as part of a war cry shouted while riding into battle;
we both felt like we had been to battle after swapping leads on this
route. In my view, a competent 5.8 to
5.9 lead climber will find this route a serious challenge.
The description does say regarding the third pitch, “Some climbers will
feel this pitch deserves the 5.9 grade but if you are familiar with limestone
stemming corners it is 5.8, albeit every single move is that hard.” This pitch is
rated at 5.8+, IMHO is at least 5.9, but I am less familiar with limestone
stemming corners. Be prepared for a full
55 metres of nonstop and sustained 5.9 hard moves all the way up.
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| View up pitch 3. |
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| Laurie's shot on second up P3. |
The next pitch, fourth pitch, is rated 5.8 and it is very
solid 5.8. Pitches 7 and 8, are both rated at 5.8, again, IMHO, there are
several very difficult moves in each pitch, and should be rated higher than
5.8, likely 5.9. The eighth pitch is lightly bolted and described as “mixed”
using both bolts and trad placements. The bolts are in the perfect locations,
with cams providing easy and ample protection in between the bolts. Overall
this route packs a big punch, but if you are interested in some old school
sustained climbing at the 5.8 to 5.9 level, but nicely protected by bolts; I
would recommend this route.
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| LK leading up P4. |
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| Looking up pitch 7 and 8. |
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| LK about to launch onto P7. |
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| KB sending us home on P9. |
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