“Cat’s Ears" (GR385179) - South Summit - West Face, 5.6 Alpine III

 

View from Opal Creek to the "Cat's Eats".
South summit is the right summit.

July 22 Scott Berry and I were successful on our climb of “Cat’s Ears” (GR383179). We had attempted this peak last year, but didn’t figure out the route description. We climbed the West Face of South Cat’s Ear on the Don Forest/Gene Fraser route (1981), or close to it. The upper mountain, once at the col between the two Cat’s Ear, is a series of steep loose gullies, with steps of varying rock quality up to 5.6/5.7. A truly scary choss fest. The final pitch to the summit was fun 5.6 on solid rock with great pro. Not all the 5.6 climbing was as high quality. Incredible views from the summit ridge. Two high points on the summit ridge. Both appeared to have cairns, but I carefully disassembled both and found no register. I left a new summit register and book. Based on my research, our ascent is the second ascent. A stunning summit, but hard climbing on loose terrain, not an easy day for sure. Super happy to reach this elusive summit. 

more details to come ...