Shortest day of the year and we had a big change of plans throughout the day. Originally three of us were heading to the Ghost, likely to solo
THOS and climb some of the upper bowl pitches, but JW’s truck had a mechanical
on the way, luckily while still on pavement; we limped back to town. John and I
headed to K-country to salvage the day, most crags looked busy; I had long
wondered about Solid Cold, so we went for it.
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| The main ice flow is hidden behind a rock buttress, the left hand side of the "y" |
Park at Fortress
Junction gas station, head up South Opal Ridge trail. The biggest flow
is obvious from the parking lot, but as you gain elevation, the climb
disappears behind a large rock rib. The guidebook mentions dropping into the
creek before the cliff that hold the climb, I agree, less elevation gain. Our
descent into the creek was into a narrow gully, that quickly broadened into a
scree slope. This descent into the creek was just before the big step, grey limestone
broad buttress, that tops out at the elevation at the top of ice pitch. Once in the creek bed, head directly up
the creek, but on the left side, and paid careful attention to the snow pack. Nearing the climb ice filled the gully
starting below a rock rib, we were lazy about putting on crampons and
struggled to the rib on dodgy feet, scrambled up the icy rib, then finally put on the
poons.
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| Above the rock rib we don crampons. John having a good time. |
Long hike in, solid two hours; and it turned out the real
climbing was only 30m of fun WI3, without considering about 100m of WI2
approach ice. Quick lead up by myself, about 30m of steepish WI3, with poor to good quality ice; I am
pretty sure we are the first party up this route this year(s).
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| Kevin leading the short pitch. (Photo by John B.) |
Then John and I did a few TR laps on the thin edges of the
flow, centre of the climb was okay, but overall the ice was sun affected and
not well attached. The climb felt stiff for WI3, but it was all virgin ice, and
poor quality, probably why it felt stiffer. On descent we headed straight down
the creek, worked out well, only one hour out. Should note that the gully above
and below the climb is usually wind loaded, this route is only recommended with
low or no snow in the gully. If you don’t mind an uphill workout, this is a good
spot for some easy ice, overall a fun day, with low commitment.
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