Incredible trip,
incredible mountain and incredible partner.
Mount Waddington is truly a climber’s mountain. Generally only
alpinists, and only a small portion of us, have even heard of this grand
peak. The highest point of the
spectacular Coast Range, and the highest summit wholly with the Province of
British Columbia. Heavily glaciated, remote, rugged and with an impressive
elevation of 4019 metres (13,186 feet), Mt. Waddington is truly a world class
peak.
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Photo by the incredible Steph Abegg.
This photo shows the top half of the route we attempted. |
Waddington was on my wish list way back in the 1990’s, but by 2000 I sort
of forgot about it. Busy career, busy
being a dad and lack of time to even climb in my beloved Rockies, this elusive
peak was out of my mind entirely. Enter
the superlative Scott Berry. Since September
2016, Scott and I have done two great trips close to Calgary in the Opal Range,
a first ascent of a summit (“South Schlee” – GR388157) and a new route on Mt.
Elpoca (North Coulor/North Ridge, 5.8, Alpine IV). Scott is the kind of guy you
have always have a blast with, be it in a bar (we both appreciate liquor), on a
beach or a scary belay ledge.
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| Scott high on Waddington |
Waddington has been on Scott’s active wish list
for decades and he was keen to attempt it in 2018.
I agreed to join him on this climb back in the Fall of 2017 and we both
eagerly awaited the trip. Scott is also scholar of special summits from around
the world (he has climbed extensively in South America and Europe, and close to
his home in the Sierra Nevada of California) and he had essentially memorized
the route and general beta for Waddington.
Using the classic “The Waddington Guide” by Don Serl and Scott’s keen
mind, I spent much of 2018 in eager anticipation of this trip.
The Don Serl guide
book is excellent and I will quote it is this trip report. Don writes, “Climbing times return from Rainy
Knob vary from under 24 hours to more than a week. Three or four days is typical,
but bad weather often intervenes, and should be planned for.” Scott’s plan was to
summit on our third day, return to Rainy Knob or the Tiedemann Glacier for
helicopter retrieval at the end of our fourth day. Speaking with the helicopter
pilots at White Saddle Air when we arrived, they indicated that the majority of
parties average 7 or 8 days return from the Rainy Knob camp with good climbing
conditions. Hmm. In the end, because of the
difficult conditions we encountered, our summit attempt happened on day five
of our trip. If anyone ever asks me, I would suggest at least seven days return
from Rainy Knob for fit and experienced groups, more if you have the challenging conditions we experienced.
August
1 - Flight onto Rainy Knob
July 31 I was up about
5am, on my flight to Vancouver at 7am.
Arrived in YVR just after 7am, Scott arrived about two hours later, once
we got the rental, we headed to MEC in Langley to get some last minute items,
like stove fuel, had a burger and finally hit the highway about 1pm. I have read
estimates about the drive to White Saddle Air Services near Bluff Lake from
Vancouver takes about 8 to 11 hours (800 kilometres). For us, it was 10 hours, but that included a
crazy logging road detour since highway 97 just north of Cache Creek was shut
down due to a mud slide, a high energy local lead us through the maze of
logging roads, otherwise we would have been stuck for 8+ hours waiting for the
main highway to be cleared. We arrived
just before midnight after we arrange B and B accommodations near the air field
through White Saddle; highly recommended since there are no campgrounds or
motels at Bluff Lake. We were set to fly at 7am, so we got about 4 hours of
sleep since we needed time to repack our gear for the flight in.
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| Best approach to Mt. Waddington... a cozy copter ride. |
August 1 was a mix of
sun and clouds, but the pilot was keen to get moving since they were super busy
supporting the local forest fire suppression efforts. After a quick debrief, we
were in the air right at 7am. Beautiful
flight into the Coast Range, massive and tall spires and awesome glaciers
everywhere.
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I got the front set for the flight in, yeah!
Photo by Scott Berry |
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View on the flight in
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Mt. Waddington from the flight in. You can see the whole route in this photo
Photo by Scott Berry |
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| My view from the copter |
Originally, we thought we would be dropped off on the lower Tiedemann
Glacier, but the pilot was able to drop us on top of Rainy Knob, saving us
considerable effort. The copter flew
away and we were left alone in this glorious wilderness. It was only about 8am, but dark and frightening
looking clouds were building, and rain appeared to imminent. Scott’s timeline had us camping on Rainy Knob
for the first night, originally thinking we would have to climb the snow slope
up from the Tiedemann Glacier. Since we were both tired from the long drive and
lack of sleep and the weather looked iffy, we decided to pitch a camp and get
some sleep. Well the weather was unstable and by noon it got hot and sunny (not
great conditions for snow/ice/glacier climbing anyway), but by late afternoon,
rain threatened again. After a big and tasty dinner of fresh veggies and black
bean burritos, we climbed about 250 metre up the glacier to do some route
finding to prepare for the big push the next day.
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View from Rainy Knob down the Tiedemann Glacier
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Unpacking after drop off
Photo by Scott Berry |
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OSWB is in the house
Photo by Scott Berry |
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View up hill from the knob. Bravo Peak is the point peak on the right,
the summit of Spearman Peak is visible on skyline, just left of centre. |
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| Unstable weather our first day, camp on top of Rainy Knob |
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OSWB cooking up some black bean and fresh veggie burritos at the Rainy Knob camp
Photo by Scott Berry |
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| Steaming up some fresh peppers and green onions, yummy. |
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| Dinner time |
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Chilling at camp
Photo by Scott Berry |
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More chilling, I am a chill guy :-)
Photo by Scott Berry |
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| View to the Tiedemann Glacier |
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After dinner recon climb, returning to Rainy Knob
Photo by Scott Berry |
August 2 - Bravo
Glacier, camp in the Cauldron
“From Rainy Knob, the
route ascends the Bravo Glacier icefall… crevasse problems often lead to very
circuitous travel, and snow conditions may deteriorate remarkably as the heat
of the day comes on, further contributing to slow progress… reach the upper
basin (the Cauldron) of the icefall (2700m] just beneath the Headwall… traverse
left in the Cauldron to cross the schrund (2800m), often with great difficulty,
and climb 100m or so of 50° snow on the Headwall… camping in the icefall below the
Cauldron resulted in the deaths of four very experienced climbers in 1960 when
a serac collapsed, and is to be avoided: leave Rainy Knob early.” The Waddington Guide. Don
Serl
Well
we left Rainy Knob early, just before the sun was up, we made fast and steady
progress on almost frozen snow with basically no boot penetration, even with
the heavy packs (about 70 pounds each).
We swapped leads up the broken glacier with a mix of steep ice/snow
climbing and short sessions of flat terrain.
Scott found us a couple of great snow bridges and we were able to stay
mostly right up the icefall and made great time to the Cauldron, a glaciated cirque
below the steep headwall that leads to Bravo Col.
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OSWB leading the first steepest part of the lower
section of the Bravo Glacier
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Making progress up the Bravo Glacier
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Bravo Glacier
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Lots of big holes and iffy bridges climbing up the
Bravo Glacier
Photo by Scott Berry |
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| Scott route finding up the Bravo Glacier |
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| Making great progress up the glacier |
The bergshrund breaking the steep headwall was massive, with a tall (30m) near vertical ice wall above. We tried three different sections to try and gain the top of the ice wall, but the most difficult climbing was exiting the near vertical ice to the snow covered lower angled section on the top of shrund. By time we were attempting this exit crux move, the upper snow pack had become super soft and provided no purchase for axe picks or crampons, just bottomless sugar snow. By mid afternoon we gave up since snow above shrund was just too sketchy. Despite the guidebook warning we decided to camp in the Cauldron so that the snow could freeze, or near freeze, overnight.
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| Sorting gear for our first foray towards the massive shrund |
August 3 - Above Bravo Col, camp near Spearman Saddle
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OSWB working through crevasses on the way the difficult upper Bravo Glacier bergschrund
Photo by Scott Berry |
Up
before 3am, after surviving the night without any serac fall, I managed to lead
the upper ice wall and get up the still sugar snow slope. After I setup a midpoint snow anchor, I
bought up Scott, where he was able to get in a rock station left and above
me. Big problem was I led the crux
without the 70 pound pack. Now I had to
pull up the pack, holy shit, what a gong show, eventually after a ton of effort
and time, I got my pack above the shrund.
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OSWB cruxing on the upper Bravo Glacier bergschrund
Photo by Scott Berry |
Finally,
after a couple of steep and loose fourth class pitches of rock, we gained the
top of the headwall. As we ascended the
steep glacier towards Bravo Col, the clouds dropped, it began to snow and
visibility was limited and occasionally zero. Despite the dropping temperate, the snow was
getting softer and we had a very slow pace as trail breaking was knee to thigh
deep snow. A few dangerous and interesting crevasse crossing got us up to Bravo
Col in near whiteout conditions.
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| Scott having fun in the snow above the shrund |
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Yeah, got my pack above the shrund
Lets get moving
Photo by Scott Berry |
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OSWB leading steep fourth class rock above the shrund
Photo by Scott Berry
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Steep snow plod to the Bravo Col
Photo by Scott Berry |
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OSWB breaking trail towards Bravo Col
Photo by Scott Berry |
Scott’s original plan had August 3 was our summit
attempt, but with the slow pace in the soft snow, we were way off this time
line. Above Bravo Col, the pace continued
to be very slow due to deep post holing, a few more scary snow bridges and on and off whiteout conditions. As we continued towards Spearman Saddle, we decided to pitch camp below the
saddle proper since the winds were whipping, we dug into a side slope to make a
nice flat tent pad. Full on conditions with high winds and snow, we were tired
and not feeling the love at this point.
Since the weather was so bleak, and the visibility so bad, we slept in
the next day. The update plan was to set a high camp the next day and attempt
the final summit tower on August 5.
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| View back to Bravo Peak once above the col. |
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| Scott digging for a ten pad near Spearman Saddle |
August 4 - Camp below
Tooth/Summit tower
Slept in to about 8am, a solid 11 to 12 hours of sleep since we were both asleep about 8pm. Well we paid for the extra sleep with extra tough conditions. Despite being at about 3150 metres, the cloud cover and fresh snow made the snow plod another post holing grind to the saddle. As well, above Spearman Saddle, there were many scary crevasse crossings.
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| View from camp towards the summit tower |
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| Making our way up to the saddle, Scott enjoying the views |
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View back towards camp as we climbed to Spearman Saddle
Photo by Scott Berry |
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View to Bravo Col from Spearman Saddle
Photo by Scott Berry |
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Spearman Peak
Beautiful mountain and awesome summit snow ridge,
a totally worthy objective of its own |
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| Another view to Spearman |
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"Are we there yet?" OSWB feeling the heat as we climb above
Spearman Saddle
Photo by Scott Berry |
As you travel above the saddle, the route steepens, with several steep snow/ice sections below the ridgeline, eventually you need to traverse right (north) as the rock ridge becomes vertical. There was nasty section where exposed glacier ice runs up a series of rock gullies, below the ice/rock gully section, we encountered a long, hard glacier ice traverse that was actively receiving rockfall from the melting ice (of course the sun came out in full force as we were about to traverse this section). Also, to add to interest, this nasty, dangerous traverse was above a massive, bottomless crevasse. With the active rockfall, we didn’t want to place ice screws since we had to move fast, man, it was a scary traverse, eventually the traverse ended on snow, away from the rock wall, in between two massive, bottomless crevasses. From here is was a long, steep, snow/ice face climb, above a massive, bottomless crevasse. Much of this steep slope had recently avalanched, so we were mostly climbing on glacier ice. Long plod towards a ridge line that would eventually lead to easier terrain at about 3650m.
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| View back to Bravo Col above the Spearman Saddle |
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We arrive at our intended bivy site, about 3650m
Photo by Scott Berry |
Just before this ridge line, two or three thin, scary snow bridges, then the ridge was hard glacier ice, and very exposed down either side. Was very happy to get off this exposed ice ridge and onto flat terrain near 3650m. We decided to pitch camp here, in between a few massive crevasses. Fun, exciting and challenging day of complex glacier climbing to reach this camp site. We
arrived with lots of day light left, good thing, the wind was whipping so we
had time to dig out and build a tall wind wall. We were happy with our camp close to the summit tower and we were very hopefully for a summit the next day.
August 5 - Summit
attempt
“Some parties carry to an upper camp at the final large crevasse [-3700m] just short of the Tooth to shorten the day on the Summit Tower. Cross the schrund [-3800m] below the eastern wall of the Tooth. Follow ledges up and right four to six ropelengths to the Notch [est.3860m) between the Tooth and the Summit Tower. A pitch and a bit on blocky but somewhat shattered rock leads to the base of the Chimney. This is usually climbed in two or three pitches; two major chockstones provide entertainment. The difficulty of the 270m-high Summit Tower varies immensely, depending on how heavily the rock is rimed. In occasional superb conditions the Summit Tower can be climbed quickly. On the other hand, failures are not uncommon and forced bivouacs in the Notch on descent are fairly regular occurrences, even for competent parties in mid-summer. Few parties will make the return trip from the schrund in under 6 hours, but most should take no more than 10 or 12 hours in decent conditions.” The Waddington Guide. Don Serl
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View from high camp to summit tower.
The Tooth on the left, main summit of Mt. Waddington on the right. |
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| Getting ready to roll |
Being in a good
position and waking to mostly clear skies, we were banking on 12 to 14 hours
from our high camp to summit and return. We left camp a bit before 7am,
assuming a return before sunset with the pleasure of a successful summit; well
we were back before 6pm… The walk to the base of the rock tower was
straightforward enough, but still was about one hour from camp to choosing a
line to attempt clearing the shrund, then we had to gear up. Part of the
decision making included where to ascend the rock wall above the shrund. We identified what we are sure is the
standard rock line, but man, it sure looked chossy, loose and bad. We chose a rock line more left, was steeper,
but solid granite. So, again, clearing
the shrund was a huge pain and took a lot of time. Scott was keen to lead up and
did a fine job considering the poor ice and snow conditions. Once above the snow Scott built a solid rock
anchor I followed, but along the snow section, my crampon popped off, wasting
more time to retrieve.
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Approaching the rock tower summit
The Tooth left, summit of Mt. Waddington on the right |
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| Getting closer to the summit tower |
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| Scott battling up the shrund |
From this anchor, we
choose a line that turned out be about 5.8 and 35 metres, Scott did a fine lead
up this section, built an anchor and brought me up. From this station, I lead a full rope
stretcher of 60+ metres of a raising traverse, little protection with a fair
amount of gorgeous granite slab, with few sections about 5.5. Trouble was from
my station upward and climber’s right (towards the notch) the rock was
overhanging and more than 5.11+. We could see the standard route below us, so
we rapped down, about 25 metres, to reach this ramp. Scott led, another 60
metre pitch, first along an easy ramp, then over an exposed wide hump (5.5)
into a big gully system below the notch.
My turn and another rope stretcher of 60+ metres (sections of 5.4) put
me just below the notch. When I was bringing up Scott, we did hear some rock
fall above us, but we could not determine the source or fall line, but it was
above the notch and fell away from us. Scott did a short steep section to gain
the notch proper and brought me up.
Decision time; somehow
it was 3pm when I reached Scott in the sun at the notch. 8+ hours from camp and
with about 5 to 6 hours of day light left. We had 5 difficult pitches (looked
to be solid 5.8 with ice patches) and 2 easy pitches to reach the summit from
the notch. Scott, rightfully so, was concerned we would summit at sunset and
have an epic descent; all the terrain on the summit tower is super exposed and
super committing. Well we were weighing
options and considering the time left, when some rock fall occurred in the
chimney. Didn’t quite see the rock fall path, but it didn’t sound good. This was the final straw, we decided to pull
the plug. (Thinking back… I think we
would have been lucky to summit before sunset, and with the long complicated
descent, I think we would have been 20+ hours camp to camp, leaving us in no
shape to descend, and we needed to at Vancouver airport in about 2.5 days from
when we retreated)
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| Our high camp is visible below,view from the notch |
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View up the Tooth from the notch
stunning rock tower |
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The final crux, the chimney on the summit tower of Mt. Waddington
4 to 5 pitches, up to 5.8. As mostly dry, but there were many icy sections |
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OSWB at the notch, time to turn tail
Photo by Scott Berry |
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| About to rap from the notch |
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| One last view up the final chimney |
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Time to rap out of here
Scott part way down the first rap
A variety of old anchors are in place at the notch, including
some old snow picket anchors |
Time to head home,
started our descent at 4pm. Used one of
the many anchors in place at the notch, full 60 metre long low angle rap down
the gully below the notch. Found another station in place, rappel more straight
down, lots of old and newer rappel stations in place. Used a couple of old pitons, plus a new piton
for our final rappel back to the glacier. This rappel was mostly down an
overhanging rock wall. Roped up and head
back to camp, back to camp before 6pm. Was actually low stress and less than 2
hours from the notch back to camp. To bed early and up before 3am for the long
descent back to Rainy Knob.
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| Last rappel station on the summit tower |
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| Combatant Mtn. from high camp |
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| Mt. Tiedemann from high camp |
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OSWB chillin at high camp
Photo by Scott Berry |
August 6 –
Descent back to Rainy Knob
Up before 3am, packed
up camp and started the long descent back to Rainy Knob, lots of glacier
climbing with solid frozen snow for much of the descent. Highlight of the descent, the friggin shrund
below Bravo Col, just above the Cauldron and the lower Bravo Glacier. We
climbed as low as possible on the rock above the shrund. Found an ancient 3 pin anchor, updated the
cord, the pins were still bomber. Was hoping the rappel would get us below the
huge shrund, but no. We landed in a
horizontal parallel crevasse just above the huge shrund. Using Scott’s magic
snow/ice skills, we built an anchor with a horizontal picket, backed up with an
ice screw. Our platform was very small and very exposed, totally the most
stressful part of the trip. Rappel back to the Cauldron, then back down the
Bravo Glacier to Rainy Knob. We called
via radio to White Saddle Air, it was about 5:30pm and we were hopefully that
we could get helicoptered out that night, but all the copters were busy with
fire fighting efforts, so we spent another night on the beautiful Mt.
Waddington.
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View back to Waddington summit tower from below
Spearman Saddle |
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| View to summit tower |
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Zoomed in view of summit tower. The notch is visible between
the Tooth the main summit tower, long way from the notch to top |
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| Scott at Bravo Col |
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| Below Bravo Col |
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| Scary and small snow platform above the huge shrund |
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| View back to rappel line at shrund |
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Scott descending Bravo Glacier below shrund, on the way
to Rainy Knob |
August 7 - Flight
out, long drive to YVR
Up at 5am, packed up
camp and waited for pick up. The copter
landed about 8:30am, then we flew back to the airfield near Bluff Lake. Nice
casual conversation with the ground crew, payment for the flight and then a
repacking of gear for long drive. Stopped in Williams Lake for lunch, then a
long, long drive to Vancouver for our early morning flights on August 8. Scott
and I were keen for a shower and a pint, but this cost us a lot of sleep, we
got about 2.5 hours of sleep before we got up to head to the airport. Tough wake up. Great trip. Probably not going back for Mt.
Waddington, but the Coast Range is magnificent, would love to climb some of its
gorgeous granite the warm sun! Maybe a
flight to the Plummer Hut would be grand.
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| Back at White Saddle Air |
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| We're alive! |
