Corba Verde - WI3, 250m (ish)

 

View up route from bottom belay stance.

November 27 got out with my old climbing buddy Raff. Had a short and pleasant day of easy climbing at Corba Verde. My first trip to this route was also in 2021, back in mid February. Both trips the route had poor quality ice and was not well attached to the rock wall. Not sure if this route always forms poorly? In November it is was basically vertical and very featured ice with the consistency of slush, not attached to the rock. Not WI3 to exit the steep section at the top of pitch 1. 

Featured and very soft ice, not WI3.

View from pitch 1 top anchor below to base.

After leading up to the steep section I realized how dangerous the poor quality ice was. I did manage to find some solid ice in a small cave and built a top rope anchor with ice screws.  Raff and I did a few top roped laps. Fun day out, great to hang out with Raff. 

Heart Line - 5.9, A1, 1100m (17 pitches)

Heart Mountain on the approach from the creek. The route follows the right 
side ridge from the creek directly to the summit.

Had a cold and blustery day Friday September 17 on a long and interesting sport route, Heart Line. This long route is found on little Heart Mountain. One route description calls this route, “a sport mountaineering adventure.“ The route description says 1100 metres for the route length in 17 pitches. Fun, glad we did the full 17 pitches; it is possible to only do the lower 6 pitches, or only the upper 11 pitches. Excellent photos and route beta here:   http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/The-Heart-Line-route-description.pdf

View to pitch 1 from creek.

Looking down pitch 2.

View down pitch 3.
Photo by Laurie

OSWB leading pitch 4.
Photo by Laurie

Generally the lower 6 pitches are moderate with sections of easy climbing, but there are several really fun sections. In between pitch 6 and 7 is a long hike on a pleasant ridge.

Pleasant hike in between pitches 6 and 7.

View to the upper 11 pitches and the summit of Heart Mtn.

The upper pitches are the money, pitch 13 is the crux, super solid 5.9. Pitch 14 is 15 metres of A1. The final pitches we had strong cold winds that make the route extra spicy.  Fun route and worthwhile to do all 17 pitches. 

Looking down pitch 8.
Photo by Laurie.

Laurie part way of pitch 10.

View up pitch 12 and 13. Pitch 13 is full value 5.9.

Kevin at the anchor at the start of pitch 13.
Photo by Laurie.

View north from anchor at base of pitch 13. 
The wall is steep.

OSWB (Kevin) at the top of pitch 13.
Photo by Laurie.

Pitch 14. A1, 5.7, 15m.

Laurie "aid" climbing the bolt ladder of pitch 14.

Last short hike to the base of the last two pitches.
Photo by Laurie.

View of pitch 16 and 17.

OSWB at station below pitch 16.
Photo by Laurie.

OSWB pulling through the upper crux of pitch 17.
Photo by Laurie.

Rain/snow clouds kept threatening, Canmore getting some precip.

Sport climbs - Larry's Crack 5.9 and Corner Man 5.10b

 

OSWB leading up Corner Man.
Photo by Laurie

Quick and fun after work trip to Canyon Creek for a couple of sport routes. Laurie and I each led up “Larry’s Crack”, 5.9 and 16m, then crossed the road to “Corner Man”, 5.10b and 18m. Corner Man felt easier than the crux pitch on Valley View (5.9). Corner Man was super fun, totally recommend it. Short and sunny trip.

“Larry’s Crack”, 5.9 
OSWB near top.
Photo by Laurie

“Larry’s Crack”, 5.9 
 Laurie near top.

Flood protection wall in Canyon Creek.

Laurie looking up “Corner Man”, 5.10b, 18m.

OSWB cruxing on “Corner Man”, 5.10b, 18m.
Photo by Laurie

Laurie cruxing on “Corner Man”, 5.10b, 18m.

Laurie about to rap off the top.

Valley View - 5.9, 190m (7 pitches)

 

View up first few pitches on approach.

Climbed Valley View on Friday, September 3. Boy, this route is really sandbagged. I lead the two crux pitches of the original line (pitch 2 and 4) and I could give P2 maybe a solid 5.9+, but P4; no way it is 5.9. I struggled up the pitch and somehow managed not to fall; it felt more like 10b or more to me. Based on discussions with some local hard climbers, the consensus seems to be pitch 4 is more like 5.10b or 10c. Cool route will some really high quality sections.

Exposed traverse to base of route.

View up Pitch 3

Valley Views 

View down crux (5.9 not)

Laurie heading up pitch 5.

Very cool rock on top of pitch 5.

View up to station above pitch 5.

View up pitch 7 to the top of the route. Cool, delicate slab climbing on this pitch.

Laurie on the top anchor of route.

First rap.

Near the end of the raps.

Fairmont Mountain - North Ridge, solo scramble

 

Moody, cloudy and cold in the high country above the Columbia Valley on Tuesday, August 10. Had tons of fun on the North Ridge of Fairmont Mountain. Fairmont Mountain is above the resort village of Fairmont Hot Springs in the Columbia Valley, about 30 km south of the main valley town, Invermere. 

Red line is my approximate route.
Yellow dot is where I left my bike.

Approached on bike from highway 93/95 to the ski out trail from the Fairmont Ski Resort, gated entrance just above the hot pools. After a couple of zigs and zags, the skinny road ends in Fairmont Creek at a small shack and water intake (I am assume the water supply for snow making at the ski hill). Across the washed out creek, a bit of travel on the same trail, but it heads down hill, so I did a bushy bash to the big scree slope that eventually meets the ridge line just north of the Fairmont Ridge/Fairmont Mtn. col.

Across Fairmont Creek from the water intake,
 an old trail continues, but it soon heads down hill.

View from bush bash towards Fairmont Mtn.
Main summit to right, just right of centre.

Up the ridge direct to lower northern summit then south to the main summit. Lots of fun moderate hands on scrambling. Solid 1750 metres of gain, mountain bike approach saved a lot of time, rode up/down ski out trail to upper Fairmont Creek. Great day out. 

Nearing ridge line, view to lower north summit.

Gaining height to lower north summit,
view north to Fairmont Ridge.

Approaching the north lower summit (right)
Main higher summit visible to left.

Cairn on lower north summit.

View of both summits, higher main summit on left.

Descending south to main summit.

View back north to lower summit and Fairmont Ridge.

Beautiful orange scree col.

Nearing summit, view to Columbia Lake.

Final steps to summit.
Some pleasant exposure on good rock.

Cool register container.

View north to Fairmont Ridge.

Raff K. has been everywhere!

Paper was super wet, really couldn't write anything 

The top of the scree slope I used to access the summit ridge.

On my return, this is the shack where I left my bike.
The water intake pipe is visible.