Good H’evans Thomas - WI3, 40m

Good H’evans Thomas - WI 3, 40m
FA: Pat Paul, Vaclav Vaclavik (both solo). March 1982.

Evan-Thomas Creek (ETC). Laurie and I went climbing in ETC February 8. I was really surprised at the amount of hikers and dog walkers in the upper canyon. Different times. The bolted chain hand rails make the upper canyon much more accessible. The long causal day reminded of previous adventures in ETC.

I first entered the upper Evan-Thomas Creek canyon in March of 1995. Tony Barton, from Fort Williams, Scotland, and I had a late start to the day, Moonlight wall area was packed, so we headed upstream to find Good H'evan Thomas. Turns out we did a first ascent on "B2", but I didn't realize that until 2008. B2 is situated 0.5 km upstream from Combo Falls.

Steve Blackwell and I came back to the upper canyon in January of 2005, using the game bypass trail at the start of the narrow canyon, trail just pass Combo Falls. WD40 has huge, I have never seen it that big since. Steve and I top roped the pillar that day. 

January 5, 2008 Jason Wilcox and I did the first recorded ascent of WD40 (lead from bottom to top). That day in January, Jason and I climbed Green Monster, WD40, Slurpee and Good H'evans Thomas.  

B2 - WI3, 30m 

FA: Kevin Barton, Tony Barton. March 1995

WD40 February 8, 2022

WD40 January 2005
Steve Blackwell at the base of WD40 in January of 2005
First time I saw this route, it is huge, have never seen it that big since.

Slurpee - WI4, 35m
FA: Kevin Barton, Jason Wilcox. January 5, 2008.

 Green Monster - WI4+, 30m
FA: Kevin Barton, Jason Wilcox. January 5, 2008.

Slurpee was way to wet and poor ice to climb.
February 8, 2022.

Laurie and I were hoping to climb Moonlight, but a team was just a head of us, Snowline and Too Low for Zero were too thin for me. We headed up to the upper canyon, along with thongs of hikers. We couldn’t climb WD40, no ice on the bottom. Started on Slurpee, but the route was nasty, wet and super hard to protect, so I bailed. I got a bit wet, so we did a hike to dry out and hiked to Good H’evans Thomas for some easy laps, had fun climbing mini steps in the creek. Did a few fun and causal leads up Good H’evans Thomas. Finished the day with us soloing up and down the little Exit Combo pillar. Fun day out in ETC.

Fun step in creek enroute to Good H'evans Thomas

Good H'evans Thomas

Rapping off Good H'evans Thomas

Ptarmigan Peak - Ski South-West Slopes

Ptarmigan Peak from Halfway Hut

Great day of turns with young guns John and Colin. Plan A was to summit Ptarmigan Peak, but the summit ridge was being raked with high winds, so we did laps on the south west slopes of Ptarmigan, just above Hidden Lake. Great snow at tree line and just below. Blue skies and lots turns. 

View to Ptarmigan from near the hut.

Quick snack in the historic Halfway Hut.

John breaking trail.
Photo by Colin.

Uphilling towards Ptarmigan.
Photo by Colin.

OSWB.
Photo by Colin.

Once in the alpine, great views.
Photo by John.

View to Ptarmigan Peak.
You can see the huge snow rooster off the summit ridge above Colin's head.

John switching to downhill mode.

Colin getting ready to rip.

Majestic Redoubt Mountain.

Ptarmigan Peak. 
Our turns were 2500m and then back to tree line.