Coronet Mountain - North West Ridge, Alpine II

Had a great trip with young Steven S. I only say young because he is less than half my age; impressive kid, loves mountains and is climbing them at an incredible rate of speed, but smart guy and not pushing his luck, seems a like solid guy to me.

Originally I had a crazy plan to day trip (24 hours +/-) Mt. Warren, but turns out we couldn’t do it.  The back up plan was Coronet Mountain, hopefully by the exciting North Glacier route (FA 1962 W. Pfisterer et.al.), but we couldn’t access the glacier since it was high above a vertical cliff with vertical ice walls, must have receded since 1962?  In the end we slogged up the North West Ridge (FA 1930 D. Sharpe et.al.) on loose scree, then solid easy ridge, ending with a short, fun snow climb on the glacier between the two highest summits.

Summit of Coronet Mountain (3152m)

After a full day of work for me, we met in Calgary, drove up to Jasper and left the parking lot about 8 pm.  Good pace on the first 10 km of trail, but soon after we took to the bush to gain the small drainage east of Poligne Creek, we got hit with a light rain that soaked the bush. Once up the drainage, we escaped to the scree slopes on the far south end of Coronet Mountain.  Travel was a bit slow, not too bad, but around 1am we decided to call it quits before we reached the col on the north end of Coronet.  Had hoped to at least reach the alpine tarn at this col, but we were about 1 km short. 

Bivy

Slept about 4 hours, decided to try the North Glacier on Coronet, but the glacier was too difficult to access.  Long slog up the North-West Ridge, but fun snow climb to main summit from sub-summit. Lots of exposed ice and a few cracks were visible, but all probing showed solid ice where we wanted it. Fun summit  (3152m) with great views to many 11,000’ers, Mt. Alberta stole the show of course. Quick plod down and back down creek.  Made the car 24 hours after leaving, long drive home and tried at work the next day. Got to love coffee!

Baldy - Cragging

Fun, but short morning of cragging at the Mt. Baldy crag.  Raff K. only gave me beta on this nice little crag about a week ago.  I did find some good information on this area on rockclimbing.com

Karen is feeling pretty rough with her pregnancy, so I had only planned on a half day of cragging with Pat and his wife Susie, but our morning (Sunday June 9) was cut short with rain that arrived earlier than forecasted.  This crag is close to Calgary and has a short approach.  Not many routes, but they are well identified since the bottom of each route has a plaque indicating name, length and grade.  The routes are well equipped with good spacing and placement of bolts and double rings on the top anchors. We only climbed a few 5.6 and 5.7 routes, but they felt much easy than the quoted grade.  We were about to hop on a few 5.9’s and an easy looking 5.10a, when we were hit hard by rain.  Our last route was a three “pitch” 5.7 route, Cedar City.  Second pitch was a funny short pitch that wasn’t really climbing and had a cable handrail, the upper section of the last pitch was fun.  Definitely will hit this crag after work soon and try the stiffer routes.

Wasootch Slabs - Cragging

Great day out with some early season cragging, first day on rock for me this season.  Meet up with Pat for an enjoyable day at Wasootch Slabs.  I led up all routes, rapped off, and then Pat led and also rapped.  Each did 5 leads, had hoped to do more, but the crag got really busy mid day and route selection was limited. Started on B slab with a couple of short bolted 5.6 routes.  Then off to F slab for a 5.7 bolted route, then a 5.4/5.6, trad/bolted route. Had really hoped to get on Orange Arete (5.8 bolted route), but it was busy or it’s close neighbour were always busy.  Finished on a longer and nice bolted 5.6 route on B slab wall.  Great weather, great to meet and climb with Pat.

King Creek Ridge

May 6, still dismayed from the Columbia Icefield trip, and wanting to take advantage of the high pressure system that was providing perfect weather, completely clear skies, warm temperatures and no wind; I headed out for a short day that still allowed some quality family time in the evening.  As part of my Opal 35 Project, and to get great views and some exercise, King Creek Ridge filled the bill.  Bottom third of the trail as dry, middle third was ice/mud and top third of the trail to the ridge was boot deep snow.

Once on the ridge the snow got very deep, up to waist deep and the odd section that was about armpit deep! Short sections along the western edge of the ridge provided reprieve from the deep snow.  Getting higher on the ridge where was an abundance of Rocky Mountain Sheep, probably saw about 25 sheep.  Even with the deep snow, I was able to keep a strong pace, probably since was living around 10,000 feet the last 3 days? 

The first highpoint was snowy and I was wondering about a cornice, but once I stood on the cairn, it was clear it was very safe, off to the next highpoint, where the signature Canada flag pole littered the top, no flag material was left. Leaving this highpoint got a bit exciting since I hugged the eastern edge of the ridge to avoid snow, it was a bit airy.  Nearing the final, highest, northern summit, two mountain goats ran off the summit.  Always cool to see the more reclusive mountain goat in K-country. Fantastic views to the Opal Range.  With the snow plowed out, I made quick time back to the dry trail.  Fun hike in perfect weather.

The Twins’ Trip – “West Twin” East Face, Alpine II

High hopes and expectations for this planned 4 day trip to the Columbia Icefields ended in a hugely disappointing trip for me. I always like to stay positive, but this trip really bummed me out and left me feeling quite frustrated. I had strong and well experienced rope team members (Anton and Ian), but a combination of warm temperatures and hot sun slow our pace thus our camp was far from The Twins.  Original plan was for 4 days to summit all 4 twins (North, South, Twins Tower and West Twin) and the 2 Stutfield Peaks (North and South) and tick off six 11,000’ers, but in the end I only got up one summit, West Twin (11,024 feet, 3360m) and we left the Icefield on the third day, May 5.

Sunset on The Twins from camp

At the of end day one Anton, Ian and I sent up camp beside Vern, Jason and TJ.  These boys were only planning on West and South Twin since they summitted North and Twins Tower last year.  Early start on day two, long ski towards The Twins, over the shoulder of North Twin, down to Twins Col, then skied to East Face of West Twin.  JW blasted up the deep snow of the East Face and set an awesome track for us to follow.  Easily tagged the summit of West Twin, then quick descent back to the skis.

Nearing East Face of West Twin

Skied back towards the North Ridge of South Twin, skied to the bottom of a short, but steep glacier ice slope.  Took off the skis and changed to crampons.  Anton and Ian started up the slope, with the plan to protect this section with a running belay protected by ice screws.  Vern, Jason and TJ were slightly behind us, approaching on skis. About half way up the ice slope, Anton picked a line on snow to avoid the icy section, while the snow patch was covering a crevasse and poor Anton went for a quick ride into the hole.  



Where did Anton go?

TJ and JW used their rope and went to the rescue up the icy pitch.  Vern and I chilled on the flat snow terrain, while Ian held the top end of Anton’s rope.  Great effort by JW and TJ to build an ice anchor and get  Anton out.  Anton didn’t get a scratch, but poor guy spent two hours in the hole. We packed up and did the long ski back to camp. 

Once at camp, ambition from Anton (understandable) and Ian was gone to do the long ski back to the northern Icefield, so no desire to attempt any of the Twins or the Stutfield Peaks.  Ian hadn’t been up Mt. Kitchener, Anton hadn’t been up Snowdome; these peaks were close to camp and an easy ski.  I have been up both these peaks, so I had no partners to climb any of my objectives. 

Day three TJ, Vern, Anton and Ian skied up Kitchener, JW and I stayed in camp. Later in the morning we broke camp, then TJ, JW, Vern and Anton skied up Snowdome, then us 6 headed home. 3 day trip to get up West Twin, yeah.  It took a lot of effort to get 4 days away from home and the office, this trip felt like a waste of time for me.

The Professor Falls - 280m WI4

Had a great day with my old climbing buddy Jason, it has been awhile since we climbed some ice together.  Originally I was super keen for a ski day and ideally a summit, but warm weather and spring conditions were ripe for isothermic snow, so Jason and I headed to The Professor Falls, a.k.a. Professor’s.

I think I first climbed Professor’s with Ian Hunt, Andy Meyers and Geoff (?) in December of 1995.  I am fairly sure I repeated the route in 96, 97, 98, 99 and I sure the last time I was there was in March of 2000 with Shawn Klimchuk. 

This winter I have hit a couple of routes I did with Ian back in the day BITD, Coire Dubh Integrale and Guinness Gully and last weekend, Professor’s.  Cloudy and brisk day with light snow and temps around -3 all day, solid and beautiful blue ice on Professor’s. I lead a couple of the lower pitches, JW a few of upper pitches and a bit of easy soloing in the middle.  Great day with a great friend on a great route; best ice day in a long time. 

Guinness Gully - 245m, WI 4

First climbed Guinness Gully back in March of 1997 with Ian Hunt. Back on March 11 Kyle and I had a late start, but great ice conditions for March, 2013.  Leading the third pitch felt tougher in 2013 than in 1997, I guess my age is catching up with me?  Also in the 96/97 ice season I probably had about 25 days of ice climbing, in 12/13 I have only had five or six days of mixed or ice climbing.  Fun day out.

Kyle on first pitch

Waterfowl Lakes – Middle Gully 200m, WI3

Back in the day before Mixed climbing was a thing, yes, I remember those days, these three gullies across from Waterfowl Lakes were referred to as the Waterfowl Gullies.  The southern and central gullies became the centre of cutting edge Mixed route development in the late 1990’s.  The first (southern) gully is now referred to “One Ring Circus Gully” home to the Canadian Rockies first M9 route; Will Gadd’s “Power to Burn”.  The central gully is now named “Finishing Hammer Gully” with bolted routes up to M8+.

FHG from highway

Needless to say, Raff and I did not climb these routes.  On February 3 we were happy to romp up and down the ice section of Finishing Hammer Gully.  About 100 metres of easy solo grade 2 ice, one short 25 metre WI3 section, followed more grade 2, then a fun easy WI3 curtain, overall about 200 metres of ice.  Had so much fun, I lead the crux sections twice before heading home.  Warm weather and the route to ourselves.  

Bear Spirit – Mixed crag day

Great day at Bear Spirit crag with Kyle, January 13.  We walked up and set up a top rope above a fun M6+ route, Woody, and did a lot of laps on this fun moderate route.  Both Kyle and I considered leading, or pink pointing, this route, but after several laps, we were smart and didn’t push our luck. 

Kyle on No Love (M7)

The crag was busy on this cold January day, with up to 12 people sharing routes and top ropes.  We had a great day and did a few top roped laps on a M7 route (No Love), lead by Scott from Canmore (very impressive lead) and a few laps on an ice pillar.  Good pump and fun to think and feel the mixed moves.

Mt. Haffner - Ski ascent

January 5, 2013.  Short day casual day that started with a lot of people. Kevin P., Vern D., Eric C. and I headed out to ski up Mt. Haffner (2514m). We were meet by Steven S. and Grant at the parking lot, but didn’t see much of them since we went for Haffner and they headed up Vermillion first (Steven and Grant went on to bag Mt. Haffner as well).

Cool low valley cloud gave way to warm air and bright sun above treeline. Quick pace to pass between Vermillion and Haffner.

  

Vern, Eric and I really enjoyed the sun, snow, ski and boot pack up Haffner; Kevin P. gave up early, still below tree line, due to a lack of energy.  Eric and I were keen to bag both summits (Vern skied up Vermillion a few years ago), but I was a good dad and headed home to make bath time. Fabulous day in the sun with great views, great snow and great friends. Great day ;-).  About 4 hours to summit and about 2.5 hours from top to car. First summit of 2013!