Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Sharknado - 5.9, 100m (4 pitches)


“Sharknado” is a recent, bolted, 4 pitch route, on an older crag. Whiteman’s Crag was mostly developed in the 1980’s and mostly as a trad crag.  The super quick access, great southern sun exposure and compact rock with several fun roofs make this a great spot.  Apparently this crag is not as popular as it once was, but maybe a few new lines will bring back interest to this cool crag. The crag is above the now busy road above the dam above Canmore between EEOR and Ha Ling Peak, maybe that is why the crag is less popular?  I didn’t mind the traffic.

Looking up pitch one from bottom of route.

I got the beta on this route last year and had hoped to combine it with “Hot Fuzz”, also a recent bolted 2 pitch 5.8 route, but Laurie and I only had a short afternoon window to climb so we only got to enjoy “Sharknado”. Established by Brandon Pullan and Gaby James in September 2014, this four pitch routes weaves in between two old trad routes and picks the best rock.  Well spaces bolts and fun positions on the cruxes make this a super fun route; totally recommended.


I led the two bottom pitches. Pitch one is 5.8 30 metres. Start up a broken ramp to thin face holds and right facing corner. Step left out of corner at the top, avoid loose rock up and right, eight bolts. Pitch two is 5.9 and only 15 metres, but I had to think about the 5.9 roof mantle seriously, tricky and small holds to clear this roof, but well protected by bolts; a total of 6 bolts on this pitch.
Start of the corner on pitch one, about half way up.

About half way up pitch two, just below the crux roof moves, there were a few 5.9 move to get here, then some big moves on very small hands and feet to clear the roof, good thing it is well bolted.

Pitch three, Laurie’s lead, is 5.8 35 metres. Head up a cool arĂȘte and stemmed up the gully. Cross left on to the wall and excellent grey stone. Straight up to a ledge. Eight bolts (extend the second and third bolts).

Laurie about half way up pitch 3. This section was fun, tough 5.8, small face holds.
I led the last pitch, super fun, cool side pulls for most hands, is 5.7 about 20 metres and 6 bolts. Descent is rap from each anchor to the next. We used a 70 single rope and had lots of spare rope; a 60 metre rope would just make the second rap with rope stretch, be very careful if rappelling with a 60 metre rope. Great day out, close to Canmore and super easy approach. We will be back for Hot Fuzz and maybe some of the trad routes.


Looking up last pitch.
On rap from top anchor.



Friday, April 8, 2016

Guides Rock - "For Sure" 5.8+, "T Bam Crack" 5.9, "Cheese Grater" 5.8



Great day out with warm weather, lots of sun, but a cool wind; can't complain too much for early April rock climbing.  Went to Guides Rock on Mt. Cory with Brad and did 3 routes.



OSWB leading up pitch 1 on "For Sure", 5.8+, 40m
I started with a lead up “For Sure”, 40m 5.8+, generously bolted. Great delicate slab climbing with the crux having super polished holds, didn’t make for great feet.  The crux were two water worn runnels that cut into the blank slab, providing interesting and strenuous side pulls to make them work for hands; slippery feet made this spicy.  We did a short simple traverse to the base of “T Bam Crack”, an alternate pitch on the popular “Aftonroe” (5.7, 220m). T Bam is a short (30m ish) trad 5.9 corner/crack.  Mostly an awkward corner that doesn’t really flow well, strenuous mini cruxes, but the trad gear is near and super easy for cams.  Brad led this very well.



Brad leading up `T Bam Crack`5.9 trad, 30m
Next we did “Cheese Grater” 100m and 5.8, generously bolted (p1 5.8, 25m; p2  5.7, 20m) Brad's lead, he combined the two pitches. Original route section, similar to For Sure, but a bit easier.  The next two pitches are a brand new addition.  I did pitch 3, 5.8, 30m, a bit of 5.8 corner and tricky slab.  Brad waltzed up the last pitch, 5.8 about 25m; more delicate slab.
 


Brad leading up pitch 1 on `Cheese Grator`` 5.8, 100m
OSWB leading up pitch 3 on `Cheese Grater``