Hoka Hey! - 5.8+, 410m (9 pitches)

Long, sustained and challenging rock route, at least for Laurie and I. We enjoyed the variety and interesting climbing on this recent route on the South West Face of Mt. Cory.  This new route is adjacent to the famous climb Cory Crack and has a relatively short approach (about one hour) through pleasant forest and meadows. Long route, 9 pitches, most at 50 or 55 metres in length, with a lot variety of climbing.  Great views north to Castle and the Lake Louise peaks.  First ascent by the “Banff Climbers Club” in 2014.  Hoka Hey means “let’s go” in the Lakȟóta Sioux language. It was often combined with the phrase “it’s a good day to die” as part of a war cry shouted while riding into battle; we both felt like we had been to battle after swapping leads on this route.  In my view, a competent 5.8 to 5.9 lead climber will find this route a serious challenge.

Great route details here:

http://banffrock.ca/pdfs/MountCorySouthPeak_MK_Feb2015.pdf

http://tabvar.org/taxonomy/term/93

The description does say regarding the third pitch, “Some climbers will feel this pitch deserves the 5.9 grade but if you are familiar with limestone stemming corners it is 5.8, albeit every single move is that hard.” This pitch is rated at 5.8+, IMHO is at least 5.9, but I am less familiar with limestone stemming corners.  Be prepared for a full 55 metres of nonstop and sustained 5.9 hard moves all the way up.

View up pitch 3.

Laurie's shot on second up P3.

The next pitch, fourth pitch, is rated 5.8 and it is very solid 5.8. Pitches 7 and 8, are both rated at 5.8, again, IMHO, there are several very difficult moves in each pitch, and should be rated higher than 5.8, likely 5.9. The eighth pitch is lightly bolted and described as “mixed” using both bolts and trad placements. The bolts are in the perfect locations, with cams providing easy and ample protection in between the bolts. Overall this route packs a big punch, but if you are interested in some old school sustained climbing at the 5.8 to 5.9 level, but nicely protected by bolts; I would recommend this route.

LK leading up P4.

Looking up pitch 7 and 8.

LK about to launch onto P7.

KB sending us home on P9.

"East Peak of Wendell Mountain" - Scramble

Headed out to enjoy more of the summer like weather in early spring on May 6. This was an extra special trip since I had the chance to reunite with an old high school buddy. Richard J. and I were great friends in high school and a few years afterwards. We had some incredible times together, usually involving a lot of beer, lots of friends and many, many laughs. As we started our post-secondary careers we lost touch and somehow drifted apart.  I hadn’t spoken with Richard in over 25 years when he connected with me last fall.  Turns out that Richard is also an avid backpacker and scrambler, funny we didn’t find each other sooner in the Rockies.

Even with the warm and dry winter, Richard and I didn’t have the opportunity to get out for a scramble until early May.  After reviewing our lists of summits, and of course we didn’t want to repeat summits, we decided on our objective. Neither of us had been to CMC valley behind Yamnuska (Mount John Laurie). Andrew Nugara’s book describes two scrambles (Wendell Mountain and East Peak of Wendell) in the CMC valley. The description for East Peak of Wendell sounded like there was great rock scenery and options for ascent, so we chose this objective. I needed to be home for family obligations before dinner time, so left town early and were leaving the parking lot at first light.  The drive out had a fair amount of fog along the highway, which cleared when we parked, but nearing tree line on the Yam shoulder, we were treated to interesting views of fog formations in the Bow Valley.

The day warmed up quickly and soon we were descending into the picturesque CMC valley.  Andrew’s description of the “scenic route” along the south flanks of East Peak of Wendell sounded like a good choice, and it was. The rock scenery is impressive; looming canyon walls, tall vertical cliffs and interesting boulder/pillar debris make this lower traverse super enjoyable.  These cliffs (Frodo Buttress, The Runes, Runewall and Bilbo Buttress) provide many rock routes, worth a visit in the future (see Bow Valley Rock by Chris Perry for beta on rock routes).

"Wendell Mtn" left and "East Peak of Wendell Mtn" on right

Great rock scenery

Cool canyon

Cool rocks

Once completing the lower traverse, you arrive at the base of the broad South Ridge of the East Peak. Most of this next section is a mindless loose scree slog, but the descent was soft underfoot and fast. Section of slabs, and a couple of interesting slab/corner sections, provide relief from the scree grind, and then the final south summit ridge is reached. This provides a firm rock ridge the opportunity to get some fun exposure on the way to the summit.  The summit cairn did not contain a register, just a hollow black tube.

Fun slab section

Summit ridge

Summit cairn

Lakeview boys (trouble in the 1980's)

Richard and I shared our first summit with warm sun and great front range views.  Quick descent, with an awesome fast scree run. We found a good trail to the old road in the valley bottom and had less luck with a light bushwhack up to the Yam shoulder crest. Down a more direct trail on the east end and we were back to car nice and early.  Great trip and fantastic weather with an old friend.

Fast descent

Hot Fuzz - 5.8, 80m (2 pitches)

Hot Fuzz is a recent two pitch sport route on Whiteman's Crag. First ascent by Brendon Pullan and Darren Vonk in September 2013. Fun slab climbing on the lower pitch, then fun face climbing with a super fun arete on the upper second pitch. Appropriately bolted and graded, a fun 5.8. Recommended. Links to great route beta below.

http://gripped.com/routes/the-route-hot-fuzz-and-sharknado-on-kanga-south/

http://brandopullan.blogspot.ca/2013_09_01_archive.html

Looking up pitch one.

Traverse to first anchor on pitch one.

Laurie on the way to first anchor.

View up pitch two.

OSWB at top of route; hoping for more cool climbing.

Sharknado - 5.9, 100m (4 pitches)

“Sharknado” is a recent, bolted, 4 pitch route, on an older crag. Whiteman’s Crag was mostly developed in the 1980’s and mostly as a trad crag.  The super quick access, great southern sun exposure and compact rock with several fun roofs make this a great spot.  Apparently this crag is not as popular as it once was, but maybe a few new lines will bring back interest to this cool crag. The crag is above the now busy road above the dam above Canmore between EEOR and Ha Ling Peak, maybe that is why the crag is less popular?  I didn’t mind the traffic.

Looking up pitch one from bottom of route.

I got the beta on this route last year and had hoped to combine it with “Hot Fuzz”, also a recent bolted 2 pitch 5.8 route, but Laurie and I only had a short afternoon window to climb so we only got to enjoy “Sharknado”. Established by Brandon Pullan and Gaby James in September 2014, this four pitch routes weaves in between two old trad routes and picks the best rock.  Well spaces bolts and fun positions on the cruxes make this a super fun route; totally recommended.

http://gripped.com/routes/the-route-hot-fuzz-and-sharknado-on-kanga-south/

I led the two bottom pitches. Pitch one is 5.8 30 metres. Start up a broken ramp to thin face holds and right facing corner. Step left out of corner at the top, avoid loose rock up and right, eight bolts. Pitch two is 5.9 and only 15 metres, but I had to think about the 5.9 roof mantle seriously, tricky and small holds to clear this roof, but well protected by bolts; a total of 6 bolts on this pitch.

Start of the corner on pitch one, about half way up.

About half way up pitch two, just below the crux roof moves, there were a few 5.9 move to get here, then some big moves on very small hands and feet to clear the roof, good thing it is well bolted.

Pitch three, Laurie’s lead, is 5.8 35 metres. Head up a cool arête and stemmed up the gully. Cross left on to the wall and excellent grey stone. Straight up to a ledge. Eight bolts (extend the second and third bolts).

Laurie about half way up pitch 3. This section was fun, tough 5.8, small face holds.

I led the last pitch, super fun, cool side pulls for most hands, is 5.7 about 20 metres and 6 bolts. Descent is rap from each anchor to the next. We used a 70 single rope and had lots of spare rope; a 60 metre rope would just make the second rap with rope stretch, be very careful if rappelling with a 60 metre rope. Great day out, close to Canmore and super easy approach. We will be back for Hot Fuzz and maybe some of the trad routes.

Looking up last pitch.

On rap from top anchor.

Guides Rock - "For Sure" 5.8+, "T Bam Crack" 5.9, "Cheese Grater" 5.8

Great day out with warm weather, lots of sun, but a cool wind; can't complain too much for early April rock climbing.  Went to Guides Rock on Mt. Cory with Brad and did 3 routes.




OSWB leading up pitch 1 on "For Sure", 5.8+, 40m

I started with a lead up “For Sure”, 40m 5.8+, generously bolted. Great delicate slab climbing with the crux having super polished holds, didn’t make for great feet.  The crux were two water worn runnels that cut into the blank slab, providing interesting and strenuous side pulls to make them work for hands; slippery feet made this spicy.  We did a short simple traverse to the base of “T Bam Crack”, an alternate pitch on the popular “Aftonroe” (5.7, 220m). T Bam is a short (30m ish) trad 5.9 corner/crack.  Mostly an awkward corner that doesn’t really flow well, strenuous mini cruxes, but the trad gear is near and super easy for cams.  Brad led this very well.



Brad leading up `T Bam Crack`5.9 trad, 30m

Next we did “Cheese Grater” 100m and 5.8, generously bolted (p1 5.8, 25m; p2  5.7, 20m) Brad's lead, he combined the two pitches. Original route section, similar to For Sure, but a bit easier.  The next two pitches are a brand new addition.  I did pitch 3, 5.8, 30m, a bit of 5.8 corner and tricky slab.  Brad waltzed up the last pitch, 5.8 about 25m; more delicate slab.

 



Brad leading up pitch 1 on `Cheese Grator`` 5.8, 100m

OSWB leading up pitch 3 on `Cheese Grater``

Gray Goose - 5.7, 220 metres (5 pitches)

Forecast for Feb. 26 was for 15 degrees in the Bow Valley and it has been a super dry winter, great day to climb on Yam. Super warm, sunny and basically no wind. West end of Yam has a variety of moderate routes, Gray Goose 5.7 follows a natural break from right to left on mostly beautiful gray slabs in between "King's Chimney" and "Unnamed".  

View to route from descent, first pitch out of sight, but most of the route is between the two gullies (King's Chimney on left, Unnamed on right), exiting left to BBQ Ledge just left and below the sharp high point of left skyline.

The route has bolted belay stations and trad protection in between with the odd old rusty piton. The first pitch is shared with "Windy Slabs", 5.6; my lead, tons of fun.

OSWB on first pitch. (Brad's photo).

We did the bottom six pitches in five with a rope stretch of 60 metres linking the standard pitches of 4 & 5; Brad's lead. Felt great to be on solid dry rock so early in the year. We bailed off the "BBQ ledge" to make sure we got home in time.

Brad at start of fourth pitch.

View across slabs, start of fourth pitch.

"Wasoonaskis Peak" (GR 338442) - Scramble

Listed in Andrew Nugara’s More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies book as GR338442. The prominence of GR338442 from the ”Kananaskis Peak” col is probably only about 20 meters, maybe since the “peak” appears separate from the Kananaskis highway it is listed separately?

Wasoonaskis Peak from approach trail.

Andrew likes to combine names of nearby named peaks to create names for unnamed peaks, so I used his method to create a name for this summit using Andrew’s made up names for nearby peaks; Wasootch Peak and Kananaskis Peak = Wasoonaskis Peak. Easy, breezy day out, less than 5 hours car to car; I was also hungover. Good spot to get some fresh air while the avi conditions are high.

Raff at tree line, "Wasootch Peak" behind.

Looking up the gully towards the summit, but the summit is out of sight still.

Crazy pole on summit of "Wasoonaskis Peak"

Gibraltar Wall - WI4, 140m

I have been ice climbing (at various levels of intensity) for 22 years and I finally made it to Gibraltar Wall. I shouldn't have waited so long, it is a great spot to climb. 

G Wall from the road

Brad picked me up in Fairmont and we met up with Jordan, Nat, Farzed and Nikki at the route. Brad and I soloed the bottom 30 metres of easy WI3. Brad led the next pitch of WI4 and brought up Farzed and I. Then Brad did a great job on a long pitch of WI4 for about 60 metres with me finishing the top 3+ pitch of about 30 metres. Nat led a nice WI5 pillar on the lower section, then their threesome followed us up.


Brad at the first belay, we found bolts :-)

Four raps and we were heading home. Cool views and pretty good ice quality.  Great day out.

View to FSR and Kootenay River

Nat just above his nice WI5, 30 metre lead



Autumn with bits of climbing

Pretty quiet Fall climbing season; attempted a few first ascent alpine rock routes, but cold weather, often with highs winds, snow and ice, kept us from getting up these new routes.

Snowy alpine rock

Did two short easy ice climbing days, not really worth mentioning, but did top rope most of a M7 mixed route.  Couldn't clear the roof on the route, but had a lot of fun.  

Wapiti Mountain - Scramble

August wasn’t a great climbing month for me. Two or three crag and alpine rock trips that didn’t amount to much because of weather or conditions, then my week allotted for big mountain trips had the wettest weather of the summer of 2015.  Just as the worst weather was hitting the mountains from the west coast to the eastern slopes, Raff and I picked the only dry spot in the Rockies; along the eastern slopes near Ya Ha Tinda Ranch. This historic Parks Canada ranch is along the eastern boundary of the park where the Red Deer River exits the park. 

We had a leisurely drive up on Monday and camped at the awful smelling Bighorn Campground.  Literally the whole campground reeks of horse piss and shit.  The campground is the staging area for many private and commercial horse trips into and around the national park.  Unless you like the smell of horse, it is recommended that you camp somewhere else. 

Heading out; Warden Rock on the left, Wapiti Mtn. with clouds on the right.

With the unstable weather, we didn’t know objective to pick, but we were happy to see the peaks along the park boundary didn’t have any fresh snow.  We chose Wapiti Mountain and had a few backups in case the weather didn’t hold.  Up at first light on Tuesday September 1, skies were clear and the wind was calm, but the time we had coffee and breakfast and got on our bikes, the wind was howling from the west and the summit of Wapiti was in clouds. We decided to continue and see what happened. 

The 12km bike approach, Wapiti above has cleared from the high winds.

You can bike the 12 km from the road to the Banff National Park boundary. Then it is about 6 km along the excellent Red Deer River trail (old road), then north about 3 km along the also excellent Tyrrell Creek trail.  We exited the Tyrrell Creek trail about 51.695743, -115.795427 to gain the broad South West slopes of the meandering South Ridge of Wapiti Mountain. The original plan was to follow the South Ridge all the way to the top, but once we crested the top of the ridge, it appeared to wind too much west and north, with a significant drop.

Our first view to the summit, dropped 250m to the gain scree slope to summit ridge.

Even though it meant dropping about 250 metres, we did a straight line from our point to the summit. Quick drop into the scree basin south of the summit, then up the broad scree ridge slightly west and north of the summit. Then a mindless 650 metres of scree slogging to the summit ridge. Easy scree walk to the summit of the 3033 metre summit of the rarely ascended Wapiti Mountain.

Old School WB on the 3033m summit of Wapiti Mtn.

The summit register was soaking wet and only contained Rick Collier’s party from 1991. The wind and wind chill was insane, but we endured the blast to enjoy this unusual view of the Rockies.  About 8 hours from the car, about 26 km and 1750 metres of gain from the car. We made great time on descent, but the re slog up 250 metres was draining, then we rushed to make the Tyrrell Creek trail before dark, then rushed more to make the Red Deer River trail before dark; just found our cairn on the main road at dark. Quick return to our bikes, then the fun bike back. All in all, 14 hours, about 52 km, and about 2000 metres of gain.  The next morning we woke to light rain, so we packed up and headed home.  Great remote summit, but a mindless slog. 

Only one party in the register. Rick Collier and party from 1991.

View on descent. Windy and very cold, but clearing to the west.

View back up scree slog to summit ridge.