“Buller Pass Peak” (GR204382) - South Slopes Scramble

"Buller Pass Peak"

                              

Had an enjoyable day in the snowy hills on Friday October 25. Laurie and I needed some cardio and alpine views so we headed out for a scenic hike up “Buller Pass Peak” (GR204382). More snow than I was expecting, but fortuitously, a group of strong trail breaking alpine friends were on the Buller Creek trail before us. Turns out, they too were headed up Buller Pass Peak. Funny, we never saw or meet our friends as they chose steeper frozen scree  directness, while we chose a snowier lower angle slog to the summit. Once upon the rocky prominence of the summit, I was convinced the snowy summit slightly to the North was higher, so I slogged over, while Laurie stayed on the rocky summit. Winter like light on the summit and a casual return with a cool winter vibe. Great day in the hills.

Bridge at road side, fresh tracks.

OSWB enjoying the late fall day.
Photo by Laurie.

Wind crust, glad the trail was broken.

LK enjoying the day.

View to Buller Pass (South)

"Buller Pass Peak"

View to Mt. Buller.

Cool clouds.

Thin snow cover on the south slopes.

View to Buller Pass (South).

LK enjoying the fresh air, Mt. Engadine behind.

LK with "Mt. Lillian" behind.

Close up of "Mt. Lillian".

Wintry view to Mt. Engadine (r) and 
"The Tower" (l).

Rocky summit of "Buller Pass Peak".

View north to snowy summit of "Buller Pass Peak".

Laurie on the rock summit.

View to "Mt. Lillian".

View to Mt. Galatea (l) and 
"The Tower" (r).

Laurie on rocky summit, OSWB behind on snowy summit.
Photo by Laurie.

Views to Mt. Assiniboine. 

CFD+ 5.9, 310m, 10 pitches

View to pitch 4 on CFD+

Had a great of climbing with Carlos. We meet for a fun 10 pitch sport route on Friday August 30. Weather was cool and a little windy, but overall good conditions. We had a lot of fun on “CFD+” a 5.9, 310m, 10 pitch fully bolted sport route. Pitch four (5.8, 40m) was the crux. Sustained 5.8 moves with many delicate foot placements and interesting hand pulls. Carlos led pitch four. I led pitch five, graded 5.9, real grade, but short burly wall right off the station, overhang with big blocky holds, super fun. The crux on pitch five was burly, but short with excellent hands and feet, overall easier than the more sustained 5.8 pitch. The upper pitches were awesome slabby 5.6-5.7+ moves for a few pitches. Well bolted and walkoff. Great day out. Tons of fun.

Carlos hanging out.

Looking up to pitch 4. 

Carlos having fun on pitch 4. 

Carlos at the top of pitch 4.

Looking down the crux of pitch 5. 
Just off the belay station.

Good times.

Upper pitches, super fun cruising. 

Good views,

Mt. Peter - South West Ridge/North West Face Scramble

 

Great road side camp with great views.

Fabulous day out with the intrepid Steve on Mt. Peter in the Purcell Range. To avoid potential thunderstorms on Monday afternoon, we pitched a tent Sunday night on the Farnham Creek FSR to allow for an early start. Our road side camp has great views to the Commander Glacier. Moving before first light on Monday August 5, we made great time on the trail to the South West Ridge. 

Very well defined trail for the scramble route start off the FSR.
I think a famous YouTuber may have put in this excellent trail.
Thanks Forest!

Typical slog from creek to gain lower 
West/South West Ridge.

Cloud and dark skies to the west.

Lots of scree slogging to gain the interesting scrambling on the solid quartzite cliff band at the top of the ridge. As the ridge steepens, traverse to the upper North West Face to gain the easy North East Ridge to make the summit. A little glacier exists on the upper North West Face. 

As you gain elevation, the South West Ridge 
becomes more solid and less of a slog.

High up on the SW Ridge a 5 class nose bars easy travel.
I am sure this goes as a 5.8? route, but we traversed north
to easy terrain on the NW Face.

Traverse to NW Face, small glacier and great views to 
Mt. Farnham (right) and Mt. Hammond.
Both 11,000'ers.

Slog up final NW Face to North East Ridge.

Easy hike up final North East Ridge to the summit.

Great summit views and the weather start to improve. Enjoy the summit and reading the register. Easy hike back to the lower North West Face. On the descent we used a snow/ice ramp to avoid some of the nasty wet down climbing we did on the ascent. Incredible views to the surrounding mountains. Weather improved throughout the day with skies clearing as we descended. Awesome day out on a fabulous Purcell 11,000’er.

Steve checking out the summit register.

Summit posers.

OSWB on the summit of Mt. Peter.
(Photo by Steve)

Our summit register entry.

Famous people in register. 

We did a short fun snow/ice climb up on the descent.
It allowed us to avoid a very wet section of scrambling the rocky ridge.
And it was fun and scenic. 

A few tricky steps on the South West Ridge descent. 

Warm sun and improving views on the descent.