GR368155 "Opoca Peak" - FRA East Face 5.7+R, 40m, Alpine III and traverse

Between Mt. Wintour and Gap Mtn. there is a minor peak (GR368155) that creates the divide between Opal Creek and Elpoca Creek. I call this peak, “Opoca Peak”, sharing names of the creeks it divides.

Opoca from the east in Opal Creek
Photo taken Aug. 2016

I have attempted this peak several times, kicked off the South Ridge by an overhanging 5.9 step that has zero protection options and rained/snowed off the North Face twice. Back again on June 19 we had success. First tried to gain the low end of the North West Ridge on the North Face, but solid 5.7 without protection had me bailing. Up to Col (shared with Elpoca Creek Hill) then high up on the easy slope against the East aspect where we traversed North (climbers right) about 35 metre on an exposed 4 th class traverse to the bottom of a bay with a small waterfall. Laurie led a scrappy 5.7+ pitch with basically no pro. 40 metres to a piton station at the base of a scree bowl. From the station about 100 metres vertical of easy scrambling gains the north summit. 

Not the best route topo photo. Yellow line with arrows is approach, blue/green line is first line attempted that I bailed on, red line is 4 class traverse, dashed red line is 5.7+ pitch, red dots are piton belay stations and orange line is the scramble to north and south summits. Rappel on south ridge is red circle.

Photo taken September 2019. Opoca Peak is in the centre. 
Mt. Wintour on left, Gap Mtn. on right, Elpoca Mtn. is covered by dark clouds behind.
Sun lit West Face and the full length of the North Ridge of Opoca is visible.
(Photo by Laurie)

From this vantage point the mini Col to south summit looked easy, which was a pleasant surprise (I was imagining the low point on the North Ridge of Mt. Wintour). The final steep ridge step to the South summit block looked difficult but turned out to be 4 th class exposed scramble. Yeah the summit! Huge summit cairn but the black tube register had no bottom and no paper. Still don’t know who did the first ascent. Easy descent down the South Ridge until above the steep step than kicked Laurie and I off before. I found a single piton with an old locking biner. Banged in another piton then rapped to easy ground. Simple walk down lower south ridge, we traversed below the impressive tall wall facing highway 40 to stay out of the bear closure; pack to Elpoca day use area and then back to the truck. Beautiful day out, happy to get this summit. 

Steep dirt/scree gully above Elpoca day use area, south (right) of Opal Creek, gives
easy access to bench and ridge crest below Opoca

West of Opoca there is a minor ridge line that raises up, the crest of this minor ridge has
a great trail. This trail is the described trail approach by the Daffern hiking guide for Opal Creek

Traversing higher up to gain north end of Opoca, Mt. Wintour behind, photo by Laurie

North end of Opoca, low down, Opal Creek below

View up to north face, north end of Opoca Peak

View to north and east up Opal Creek. Left to right, Mt. Blane, "The Blade", "Mt. Barnham", Mt. Burney,
Mt. Jerram, "Cats Ears - north" and "Cats Ears - south"

Our first line of attack on the north face. I lead up about 40 metres of 5.7/5,8 rock with very little pro.
I got one piton in about 20 metres above the station, then there were no more options for pro, the terrain was
continuing to be steep, so I bailed and downclimbed. The line was in the centre of the photo

Photo by Laurie, OSWB getting ready to start the first line of attack. Mt. Wintour across the valley

Laurie's bold lead. From the col, traverse about 35 m, then up, just left of a small waterfall.
Pretty good quality and solid rock, but tight, little protection as well. 40 metres of 5.7 to 5.8. 
Laurie only got two cams for protection in on his lead. Top out on easy ground at the bottom of a scree slope

At belay station, little waterfall wet spot to my right

Pitons are the only option for protection on this peak. My station of two solid pitons below the crux pitch.

Topping out on top of crux pitch, LK's piton station is way to my left, view to right, north.
The right hand skyline bump is the right side (north side) of the major buttress that divides the north face.
The largest gully system on the north face is in front of the bump; I have tried to climb this gully before, it is super loose, glad we got rained off that attempt 

From LK's piton station above crux pitch view up snow patch and onto easy terrain
and the summit ridge (summit out of sight)

Near summit, view down east side, snow patch above our belay station is visible, LK slogging up

Final steps to north summit of Opoca Peak. "South Schlee" (l) and Elpoca Mtn. (r)
across the valley

Laurie happy to be on top of the north summit

Photo by Laurie, OSWB on the north summit of Opoca Peak

The north end of the south summit of Opoca Peak

LK checking out the line up the south summit block

From the col between the north and south summit, the final summit block is looking easier the closer we got

View back to north summit and the col

Photo by Laurie. View south to col

Final ridge climb to south summit turned out be fun and easy fourth class climbing on solid rock

Laurie on the highest south summit. The big rock cairn was in place

Black PVC pipe register, but the bottom became unglued. No paper record of previous ascents found

Old, failed black register on left. I left a new black pipe register in the summit cairn
(just wrapped in orange tape)

New paper in new summit register

Photo by Laurie, OSWB on summit of Opoca Peak

View down south ridge, still above the rappel station

Found this old piton and old locking biner in place. Was totally solid, used in our rappel anchor

Updated new rappel anchor on south ridge descent. Left in place two pitons and the orange cord.
It is visible from the easy ground on the south ridge

LK on rappel over the 5.9 step of the south ridge

The lower easy terrain of the south ridge

Hiked out high, near tree line, below the west face of Opoca Peak to stay out of the bear closure.
Lots and lots of big beautiful walls 

View to west, the slight ridge crest has a trail on the crest and is described as a hikers access to Opal Creek

Valley view trail closed because of bear activity.  PLPP should just permanently close trail (old road) to the public
since it basically is always under a bear closure. We stayed off this trail on the approach and return to the Elpoca day use area. 

Nearly back to truck, Opoca Peak enjoying the sunset colours