Lyell 3 (Ernest Peak), Lyell 2 (Edward Peak) and Lyell 1 (Rudolph Peak), Alpine II.

The storm let up mid day Thursday, but the summits of the Lyells were wrapped in clouds. We made a plan to get up early and move before first light and head up the glacier and hopefully get all five summits. Early Friday morning, July 26, Lyells were still wrapped in clouds and raked by high winds, we did the long march up the Lyell Icefield to the base of the 5 Lyells.  

We arrived about 8am, waited in the blasting cold wind until about 9:30, decided to bail and return to camp. I was so disappointed, but the Lyells were so socked in. We kept looking back as we walked down the glacier. About 1 km down the glacier, Lyell 5 (Christian Peak) cleared, we turned and decided to attempt an ascent.  On the slog up, we saw two roped groups of 4 climbers descending the south ridge of Christian Peak, assuming heading back to the hut.

Scott chilling on the glacier,

Our view for 1.5 hours. Is it going to clear?

I think it is clearing... lets go!

As the wind slowly pushed the clouds out, we decided to start with a climb of Lyell 3 (Ernest Peak) and see how the weather worked out. Eventually we gained the 2/3 col and summitted 3 (Ernest) with clouds and limited views.

We dropped back to the col, up to the summit of 2 (Edward Peak) and then onto 1 (Rudolph Peak).  All easy glacier climbing on snow. After descending back to the main glacier, we decided it was too late in the day to continue onto 4 or 5 and returned back to our camp near Arctomys Peak.  Saturday July 27 we hiked out via Glacier River and Lake to the highway, long haul with mostly rain.  Great adventure for my Cali pal.

Summit view from Lyell 3 to north ridge of Lyell 4.

Summit selfie on Lyell 3.

Scott on the summit of Lyell 2, Lyell 1 in near distance.

View to Lyell 3 (r) and Lyell 4 (l) from Lyell 2 summit.

View to Lyell 5 (l) and 4 (r).

From summit ridge of Lyell 1, view back to Lyell 2 and 3.