Monday, September 15, 2025

"Cat's Ears" (GR382180) - North Summit - West Face, 5.6

Success on North Cat’s Ear! The “Cat’s Ears” are a striking double summit between Mount Jerram and “Mount Schlee” (GR 385168) at the head of Opal Creek. I have always assumed the unofficial name of Cat’s Ears was derived from the view of the south summit from the Piper Creek drainage, two very pointy highpoints. Back in July of 2024, Scott Berry and I summitted the higher southern summit (ear) and we attempted the northern ear in July this summer, but were chased off by a thunderstorm as we were about the get the rope out. On Saturday September 13 Scott Berry and I reached the exposed summit of North Summit "Cat's Ears" (GR382180) via the West Face. We are assuming we followed the same line as the first ascent team (Frank Campbell and Don Forest, June 20, 1982). Our ascent is the second recorded ascent of this obscure summit. Our third trip in the last 14 months up Opal Creek to the high col between the two ears seemed quite familiar. From the scree of Opal Creek, moderate to difficult scrambling on slabs covered with loose dirt and rock leads to this high col.  Two steep short slabs steps (about 5.6) need to be ascended to reach the col. Just below the col, a gully/chimney between the main summit block and a flake gives access to steep scree below the northern summit. About 120 metres of climbing in the gully (loose scree and a few steep 5.6 steps) reaches a scree bowl below the summit. The summit tower is the most northern high point. A short 5.5 slab climb low on the tower leads to the narrow summit ridge. No cairn or summit register were found. I had brought a new summit register tube and book to leave behind. After some summit smiles and high fives, Scott filled out the new register and I built a cairn. Beautiful sunset colours as we started the complicated descent. We did 5 rappels, using pitons or slung boulders as anchors, and arrived at the difficult slab downclimb in full darkness, yeah! Careful downclimbing and long hike out in the dark was good character building. Amazing day in the mountains with an amazing friend. After this summit, I have 32 of the 35 Opal Range summits.








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