Opal Ridge Traverse – Alpine I, 5.4

Traversed the length of Opal Ridge from the North Summit to the South Summit, and yes I threw in a YDS grade of 5.4.  I solo traversed the ridge crest for the whole distance, and hit the top of each hit point. The ridge crest proper presents several short steps of 5.4. Most obvious is the rock step mentioned in the scrambler’s guidebook where Kane recommends dropping about 200m instead of tackling the short vertical rock section.  When travelling from north to south the best spot to ascend the wall is right on the ridge proper, there is a small col like spot on the ridge.

View to north summit block.

From this section follow a nice 5.4 broad open book face up to the top, about 30 metres of climbing with excellent holds on good rock.  Lots of great hand holds, but feet take some care, including several sections of feet only with smears, the super positive hands make these moves feel secure.  Several other sections included up and down climbs at the 5.4 level, including my descent from the northern high point, heading south from the summit; the ridge crest was super exposed, loose and quite blank for feet, some huge reaching down steps.

The biggest 5.4 step (the step Kane recommends dropping 200metres for, not sure why)

Had a lot of fun with perfect weather conditions. Left the car parked 1.0 km south of the Rocky Creek bridge, up the steep grass/small tree slope, hard to stay on the trail in this section. Once heading up the north ridge the trail is a highway all the way to first high point. After that trail comes and goes. I stayed on the ridge crest, hit all high points; which was much more time and energy consuming, all the way to the South Summit.  6 hours from the car to the South Summit, then back to the Fortress Junction gas station, where I had left my bike, then biked the highway back to my car.  All in, just over 8 hours car to car.  In my Opal 35 Project I include both summits in my list.  Great day out!

From south summit view to northern summit

Gray Waves - 5.8, 140m (6 pitches)

Gray Waves, this is a route I wanted to climb about 20 years ago (boy I am getting old ;-). Back in the day, this route had no fixed pro, no bolts, but the occasional loose rusty pin. Before the big retro bolt of the Kid Goat crag, I was up the classic route Keehaul Wall (5.6, 155m) several times and would often look over to the steep, slabby, blank wall of Gray Waves and wonder how run out was it?

I basically stopped my focus on rock climbing in 1999, after getting very comfortable on tough 5.8/5.9 alpine trad leads. 1999 was the same year Kid Goat (and several other older crags) had major retro bolt updates. The first ascent of Gray Waves was by John Martin and L. Howard in 1980.  In 1998, Joe Josephson and K. Snyder slightly rerouted and retro bolted the first pitch, in 1999, M. Piche and S. Holeczi added bolts to the rest of the route.

My impression in the mid 1990’s was that this route was fun, clean (no loose holds/clean ledges), but seriously run out with very little chance for good protection, and no fixed stations. My focus, at the time, was on big mountain alpine trad rock routes and I never climbed Gray Waves, but did think of it often…

Laurie and I have been doing a ton of indoor climbing and trying our best to get outdoors a bunch this year. My wish list for us included Gray Waves, and on June 24, we had a blast on this classic route.

Laurie led pitch 1 (20m, 5.8), his pic looking down to me.

I led pitch 2 (30m, 5.8+?).

Just below crux of route.

LK with Yam

OSWB belaying

Best 5.5 slab traverse in the Rockies IMHO

Barrier Bluffs - Cadillac Jack 5.9, Squeeze Play 10d

Had big alpine snow, rock ridge, first ascent route plans, but the forecasted clearing on Sunday night did not happen. We left the car about 1am, hiked until 3am, and only more and more snow fell, so hiked back to the car. Slept about 5 hours, got coffee and slowly made our way to Barrier Bluffs.

I led up Cadillac Jack, 24m, 5.9.  Tough 5.9, but likely tough since all really significant foot and hand holds were totally polished; feet especially required careful work and weighting, grade felt way harder than 5.9 for sure.  Once up to the anchor, did a couple of top roped laps on Cadillac Jack and Squeeze Play. Squeeze Play was great as a TR would be huge challenge as a lead.

Fun afternoon after a night of hiking in the snow with big packs.

Mothers Day - 5.7, 335m (8 pitches)

Great day out with Laurie on a Bow Valley classic moderate climb, Mothers Day.  Friday May 22 was hot and sunny, and as we found out later, ticky.   The simple approach got a bit messed up for us, I am blaming the flood of 2013.  The standard description (Banff Rock by Chris Perry, tabvar.org) describe heading up the gravel washout for 100 metres, then go right. Well about 100 metres from the road there is a big green flagging on a tree, then a trail that heads perpendicular right into the bush; well this isn't the proper trail. A re-read of the descriptions states, "Follow the dry creek bed up for about 100 m and then cross over to a well-defined trail (cairn) on its right-hand (east) side."

Well there is no cairn, and the trail use to follow the right side of the creek/wash out, but  after heading straight up the drainage, in about another 200 metres, a trail parallels the creek, on the right bank, up to the base of the route; what a waste of time for us.

OSWB heading up 5.7 pitch

Good thing we solo'ed the first 5.4 pitch to make up time.  I led up the second alternate pitch, 5.7. I would agree with the grade and fairly sustained at 5.7, most of the moves require a bit of power and big, high steps, but otherwise pretty easy.  Lots of great opportunity of gear placement. I led the second 5.6 pitch. Three bolts on the length of the pitch, none shown on the topo; also looks like the bolted station was moved, just a few metres to the left of the location shown on the topo.  Interesting and fun face climbing mostly. Laurie led the next 5.4 pitch, his first real trad lead, so his gear placement took some time, got to watch a mountain goat across the big gully. Laurie did a great job of placing the rock pro.

Laurie on pitch four

I led the next two pitches, both at 5.5, but super fun. Lots of exposure made the leads more exciting; especially pitch five, the rising traverse is super exposed for a 5.5 route.   Lots of opportunities for gear placement, super clean route, very little rock litter on the lower pitches.

Laurie blasted up pitch seven, fun 5.4.  I enjoyed the last pitch a lot, rated at 5.5, but this pitch is the dirtiest and loosest; not usually fun, but being exposed and loose made this pitch more committing than the first two, IMHO. Clearing the roof near the top of the pitch is the crux in my opinion. Only a 5.5 to 5.6 move, but super exposed and requires full commitment to get over this section. Great fun.

Top of route

Beautiful spring day, view to Mt. Rundle

I enjoyed the walk off trail, cool to hike over Cascade Falls, have done the winter descent of the section between Rogan's Gully and Cascade Falls before, but was interesting to see all this terrain in the summer.  Very large trail up there. Great day out, had a blast on this classic moderate route.

Twins, Stutfields & Cromwell - Alpine II

Fantastic four days on the Columbia Icefield with young guns Steven S. and Ben N., and veteran climber Vern D. First day we skied up the Athabasca Glacier then about 25 km to a camp near Stutfield Peak.

Skiing up the "ramp" above the Athabasca Glacier

May 8 we skied up Stutfield Peak (3450m), Mt. Cromwell (3330) and “North-East Stutfield” (3390m).

 

View from Mt. Cromwell to Stutfield Peak (r) and North-East Stutfield (l)

 

May 9 skied/climbed the North Ridge of South Twin (3640m), then skied up the South Ridge of North Twin (3730m) and then descended the fabulous North Ridge and climbed up the spectacular South-East Ridge of Twins Tower (3627m).

 

Final North Ridge below summit on South Twin. View to Mt. Columbia in the distance

OSWB on summit of South Twin, behind North Twin and Twins Tower

 

On summit of North Twin. View down to Twins Tower

Descending North Twin to col.

Gorgeous! View to Twins Tower

View from near col up to North Twin summit ridge

At North Twin and Twins Tower col, Mt. Alberta to the right.

OSWB on the summit of Twins Tower. View to the North Ridge of North Twin

Nice and easy ski out via Athabasca Glacier on May 10. Great peak bagging trip; 2 days of climbing and 2 days of skiing!
 

Heading home with great views

Poor snow conditions on descent of ramp above Athabasca Glacier
(frozen, churned up curd, grabby on twins and tails)

 

 

 

GR356417 “Old Baldy Mountain” - Scramble

April 19, 2015; this turned out to be a great Plan B peak.  Eric and I intended to ascend GR 302516 “Skogan Peak”, but after I attempted to wade the Kananaskis River twice, both times to above my waist line and still not at the deepest point of the crossing, we bailed.  “Old Baldy Mountain” was close by and a peak I have been interested in for years. 

View to "Skogan Peak" from ascent ridge

We couldn’t find the short approach described in Nugara’s book in the maze of trails and roads in the Boundary Ranch area and ended ascending Old Baldy ridge further south and suffering in quite a bit of bushbashing and deep postholing.  Once we finally gain Old Baldy Ridge, the snow conditions improved greatly. 

Proper ascent/descend gully far left (open few trees)
we ascended way right, up big snow patch.

The flat, plateau like, top of Old Baldy Ridge provided quick hiking to the base of the West Ridge of “Old Baldy Mountain”.  The ridge turned out to be a snow climb, lots of fun with really nice snow conditions.  About one third of the way of the West Ridge there is a cool big slab, deserves a bolted rock route in my opinion.  Fun snow climb mostly straight up the ridge to the summit, many cool cornice features along the many summit ridges and high points.

Cool big slab on lower West Ridge

Our descend was about one quarter of our ascent time and once we found the described shorter approach/return slope, we blasted back to the car.  Great to see Eric and a very fun and enjoyable 11 hours ish day.

Nearing summit

OSWB on summit

Poor snow, great rock | Wasootch, 5.8 - 5.10c

After a few tours for turns turned bad in March, I gave up on snow and went for rock.  On March 27 it was 21 degrees in the Bow Valley and Kananaskis Valley. With the chance of afternoon winds, Anton and I went for a day of cragging at Wasootch, great pick since the sun hit B Slab around 10:30 and it was hot in the sun by noon.

I was stoked, led three routes and top roped one. Started with a cold rock lead on “Orange Arete” bolted 5.8, then led “Cracked Slab” bolted/trad 5.9, then after Anton’s great lead, top roped “Silver Bullet” bolted 5.10c.  Finished with a lead up “The Funnel” bolted/trad 5.8.  

Anton's turn on "Cracked Slab - 5.9"

"Silver Bullet" 5.10c follows right ramp, then left below roof.

Great to be on rock so nice and early in the season.

Mount Castleguard - North Ridge/NE Slopes, Alpine I

Sunday February 22, I summited the beautiful Mt. Castleguard with Ian H. and Henry D. I had always wanted to ascend Mt. Castleguard as a long trip day, but this trip turned out to be a great "plan B". Originally we had plans of skiing up the Athabasca Glacier, onto the Columbia Icefield and to ski up Stutfield Peak, west and east; but the forecasted morning clearing was slow to materialize on Saturday, so we changed plans. No regrets. Had an awesome trip. Simple ski up the Saskatchewan Glacier to camp on the edge of the Columbia Icefield.



Sunday woke to blue bird skies, with lots of cold wind, overnight temperature was about -25, but the day heated up quickly with the sun. Easy ski up the broad North Ridge towards the summit block with minimal trail breaking, about mid boot depth. We headed into a small bowl North-East of the summit block and ascended a steep, short snow slope to the summit ridge, this was closer to the summit than the regular ski ascent line. We thought this gully provided safer snow stability and a much safer runout then the standard ski line.

Skiing into NE bowl, we ascended the snow just left of the rock
on the far left.

Fantastic summit views to a few 12,000’ers and a bunch of 11,000’ers.  Enjoyed the summit, then we had a great ski back to camp, upper half was on awesome powder snow, nice treat on a high elevation icefield. Quick coffee at camp, then the long ski out. Had a fabulous time with these two veteran backcountry ski guys.

Kevin and Henry on the summit of Mt. Castleguard,
Mt. Columbia behind. 

Solid Cold - WI3, 30m

Shortest day of the year and we had a big change of plans throughout the day. Originally three of us were heading to the Ghost, likely to solo THOS and climb some of the upper bowl pitches, but JW’s truck had a mechanical on the way, luckily while still on pavement; we limped back to town. John and I headed to K-country to salvage the day, most crags looked busy; I had long wondered about Solid Cold, so we went for it.

The main ice flow is hidden behind a rock buttress, the left hand  side  of the "y"

Park at Fortress Junction gas station, head up South Opal Ridge trail. The biggest flow is obvious from the parking lot, but as you gain elevation, the climb disappears behind a large rock rib. The guidebook mentions dropping into the creek before the cliff that hold the climb, I agree, less elevation gain. Our descent into the creek was into a narrow gully, that quickly broadened into a scree slope. This descent into the creek was just before the big step, grey limestone broad buttress, that tops out at the elevation at the top of ice pitch.  Once in the creek bed, head directly up the creek, but on the left side, and paid careful attention to the snow pack. Nearing the climb ice filled the gully starting below a rock rib, we were lazy about putting on crampons and struggled to the rib on dodgy feet, scrambled up the icy rib, then finally put on the poons.

Above the rock rib we don crampons. John having a good time.

Long hike in, solid two hours; and it turned out the real climbing was only 30m of fun WI3, without considering about 100m of WI2 approach ice. Quick lead up by myself, about 30m of steepish WI3, with poor to good quality ice; I am pretty sure we are the first party up this route this year(s).

Kevin leading the short pitch.
(Photo by John B.)

Then John and I did a few TR laps on the thin edges of the flow, centre of the climb was okay, but overall the ice was sun affected and not well attached. The climb felt stiff for WI3, but it was all virgin ice, and poor quality, probably why it felt stiffer. On descent we headed straight down the creek, worked out well, only one hour out. Should note that the gully above and below the climb is usually wind loaded, this route is only recommended with low or no snow in the gully. If you don’t mind an uphill workout, this is a good spot for some easy ice, overall a fun day, with low commitment.

 

                          The real climbing. About 30m of steepish WI3, poor to good quality ice.

Tasting Fear - WI5, 30m

After a few attempts to get a couple of first ascents on ice that didn't work due to snow and ice conditions, final got out for some ice cragging.  Meet up with Ian G. for a fun day of playing on top rope on the short, but steep ice route, Tasting Fear. This short pumpy grade 5 route is located way up Galatea Creek. I had to break trail through boot top snow for most of the approach, which seemed pretty long.  Cool little waterfall and bay in the canyon where the climb is located. Climbed up easy mixed terrain left of the pillar then set up a top rope and enjoyed a few steep laps.

Great fun to be on ice again.  

GR 368155 ('Opoca Peak') - South Ridge Attempt 5.8+ R

Part of my Opal 35 Project, and also since it is a cool little peak, Laurie and I set off to attempt the South Ridge of GR 368155 ’Opoca Peak’ in the Opal Range on August 26 after work. This little peak is between Mt. Wintour to the north and Gap Mtn. to the south and has a large vertical summit block. I applied the name of Opoca Peak since it is along the divide between Opal and Elpoca Creeks.  I have been most of the way up the South Ridge of Opoca Peak with Vern, Eric and Steven back in January 2014. We turned around because of the lateness of the day, but we never got a good look at the start of the vertical ridge section.

Looking up South Ridge

I was hopeful that the ridge was in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, well it turned out to be tougher. The broad ridge ends at an overhanging wall, not too tall, maybe 7 or 8 metres, but overhanging, blank for rock protection and loose. Around the prow of the ridge on the east aspect, I found a loose and chossy chimney that was about 5.6 or 5.7, but the left side of the chimney was incredibly loose and likely would have fallen off if I used it as a hold. This section also had no protection. I climbed up about 5 metres and bailed due to the looseness of the rock. Back to the overhang.

5.7 death choss chimney

The overhang did have a nice foot ledge traverse from the lowest section towards the steepest and tallest section of the overhang. This traverse was a pumpy 5.8, with a huge, powerful move required to transition from the overhang to the lower angled rock on the lower angled section of the ridge (5.8+ R).  This traverse and the big move up were not protectable with your feet now about 5 metres above the nasty crash zone. The move up into easy terrain looked incredibly loose. I tried for well over an hour to get a piton into the rock, but the rock was too either too tight or too loose.  Not wanting to risk the big move without protection, we bailed. We searched for alternative routes for about an hour, no luck, so we turn our tails and headed home.  I will be back for the North Ridge/East Face route one day soon.

5.8+ R lower section

Mount Fisher - Scramble

Had hopes for some big mountains in the Rockies, but unstable weather was hanging around in mid August, so I ended up with a fun and easy scramble to end my holiday. I meet up with Steven Song and we decided the best chance for fair weather was on the western side of the Southern Rockies; thus our objective became Mount Fisher.

Mt. Fisher is the landmark icon in the southern Columbia Valley near Cranbrook and Kimberly, British Columbia. This shapely mountain towers above the surrounding peaks and is a very popular scramble for locals. It is reported that the Stanley Cup (NHL champion cup) has been to the summit of Mt. Fisher twice.

The crux of the day is finding the right logging road to access the trailhead. Rough road for 8 km makes the start of the steep hike. A short steep hike takes one to a beautiful sub-alpine valley and onto a steep col. Great scenery once above tree line. Mostly an easy slog to the summit, with one or two hands on and exposed scramble section just below the pointed summit. We had limited views, but did get a sneak a peek at the impressive Mt. Washburn, high on my list now.

Good choice for a day of very unstable weather. Great to bag this beautiful little peak, fun day out.

GR 376159 ('East Opoca ') - Scramble

Thursday August 14 Raff and I had hoped the weather would hold and we were keen to attempt Mt. Jerram. On the hike up Opal Creek, the clouds got thicker and thicker and lower and lower, so we turned our attention to the low summit of Opoca Peak (GR 368155). Opoca Peak, thusly named since it divides Opal and Elpoca Creeks, is a short, but tough technical climb with zero beta.

Mt. Jerram (l) and North and South Cat's Ears (r)

We were hoping to ascend quickly as we knew the rain would come soon. We slogged up to the col between Opoca Peak and East Opoca, hiked to intersection of this col and the north ridge of Opoca Peak. Searched a variety of locations along the steep face for the best line, geared up, rock shoes on, then the hard rain started. We removed our rock gear and decided to hike in the pouring rain to the low summit of East Opoca (GR 376159), about 1 kilometre to the east.

View to East Opoca

Fun and scenic hike considering the awful weather. The driving rain stopped as we reached this little summit (2450m).  We did the quick hike over to the slightly lower eastern highpoint as well. A fun hike with great views with lots of wet weather.

Mount Nelson - Scramble

Meet up with TJ and Meg the day after Barber Rock for a classic Columbia Valley scramble; Mount Nelson. A very prominent peak from the Invermere area. Mt. Nelson reaches an impressive height of 3315 metres and has a striking summit block. This peak is highly sought by locals and often is the pinnacle of some locals alpine experiences. Actually it is a moderate (Class 3) scramble to a prominent summit with fantastic views of the Rockies and Purcells, including the Bugaboos.

This moderate scramble packs a punch though; about 2000 metres of gain, with the first 600 metres or so on a very steep dirt trail. The hands on scrambling is crazy loose, with a fall presenting terrible consequences. Overall this scramble is a very fine, technically easy, romp to the top of an impressive summit.

Scrambling on summit block.

All approach information and route description is available in the Matt Gunn's excellent trail guide (Hikes Around Invermere & the Columbia River Valley).

Summit shot.

Summit Cross, it is big.

Solitaire (Barbour Rock) - Sport Climbing

The semi famous Barbour Rock. I first learned of this obscure crag in the mid 1990's, it is almost masked in legend; great rock, short approach, diversity of climbs and almost to hot to climb in the summer. 

No published beta, but it can see a lot of traffic. My buddy TJ (who grew up in Invermere) set me up for an awesome day of cragging at this venue. TJ and Meg were at this crag about a week earlier and had fresh beta on the routes. I enjoyed several leads, probably up to sport 5.9 with far spaced bolts. TJ lead a great 10b ish route with a crazy tough overhang crux off the deck, awesome TR for me. 

Appreciate the peek at this great venue with awesome company.